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Sunday, December 29, 2013

1997 Silvio Grasso Barolo Ciabot Manzoni and 2007 Guiseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabaja

What a difference a decade makes.  My first take on Silvio Grasso wines, the '97 Ciabot Manzoni is a modern style Barolo.  Served at dinner an hour after decant, this is a big wine with lots of sweet tannins framing dark cherry fruit.... quite dark in color with slight amber robe.  Great Nebbiolo profile of tar, roses and cedar with delicious sous bois ... Drinking well now, this wine has many years of life ahead ... 
Contrast to the '07 Cortese Rabaja, which was also decanted.  This wine seems a bit more closed since the previous bottle tasted earlier this year.  Nose is noticeably more reticent.  Attractive black fruit is tight at the moment not giving much even after a couple of hours in the decanter.  Noble Rabaja lineage is present, but really won't be hitting its stride for another ten years....

Saturday, December 28, 2013

2012 Grey Stack Sauvignon Blanc Rosemary's Block

From Sonoma County, fermented in stainless steel and then aged for 4 months in 50% stainless steel and 50% neutral oak. Bottled unfined & unfiltered. Lemon, sage and grapefruit palate with mild, slightly tropical floral nose.  Very creamy ... low acidity ... The clonal selection is said to have originated from Alto Adige. Paired well with sautéed shrimp diablo, lemon-herb risotto and marinated artichoke salad.

Aubry Brut Rose Premier Cru NV

A very enjoyable champagne... it does not have quite the depth of the Pehu-Simonet (which was a grand cru), nevertheless it went well as aperitif to turkey dinner and with turkey as well.
This wine will benefit from a bit more time in the bottle. Right now, the overall impression is smooth and silky with lilting accents of strawberry and a light bready nose... Interesting enough to warrant more investigation into this producer.
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (including some still wine Pinot Meunier)
Disgorged September 2013
           

Pehu-Simonet Brut Rose Grand Cru NV

We decided to get back into serving Champagne for the Holidays!
This is a brilliant wine... even more enjoyable about an hour after opening the bottle.  It is comprised of 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay, with 10% of the pinot noir from barrique-raised still wine, which provides an incredible depth to the palate.
Robust strawberry and red currant fruit complemented by mouthwatering acidity makes this a very food friendly wine ... it disappeared quickly paired with smoked salmon and shrimp. Looking forward to Gimonnet and Aubry waiting in the wings.
(The disgorgement date was not listed on the label)

Friday, December 20, 2013

1997 Stefano Farina Chianti Classico Riserva Le Bocce

Popped and poured... a nice CCR with attractive sour cherry and dried flowers on the palate. Earth and faint mushroom notes on the nose.
Lacks the depth of other 1997 vintage (as well as 1990 vintage) CCR's I have had recently ... will see how this turns out a bit later. Very faded garnet color. Am not sure more aeration will bring out a lot more in this wine.

1998 Oliver's Taranga Shiraz

A spectacular wine from a historic vintage. This wine is right at its peak now. Upon opening, a fabulous display of aromatics ... mouthwatering black fruit nose fills the room on decant.
This wine would have likely been over the top ten years ago but is now a stunning example of shiraz's potential over time.
Seductive blackberry and even blueberry fruit draped elegantly over a frame of fine grained tannins. Hints of anise with enough acidity to be food friendly.

1999 Ojai Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard

This is a remarkable pinot noir, made around the time that Gary Pisoni started bottling his own wine. I actually prefer this Ojai version to the current vintages of Pisoni Estate wines (which can be ponderous and highly extracted, exhibiting almost syrah-like color and intensity.)
This is the first time I have had an Ojai Pisoni Vineyard .. and Adam Tolmach has delivered an incredible pinot noir. It took about 3 to 4 hours for this wine to open up and really hit its stride (slow-o in bottle). 
Lovely balance. The darker color belies the nimbleness of the palate. Black raspberry fruit with delicious frutti di bosco ... hints of cardamom on an attractive floral nose that I love in great pinot noir. 

This wine is in its peak drinking window and will remain there for another 2 to 3 years. Bravo to Mr. Tolmach on this gorgeous wine. His pinots never fail to please.

1991 Beaulieu Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Georges de Latour

Opened for slow-o in bottle 2.5 hours prior to dinner. Nose was initially closed and palate subdued. Decanted at dinner... wine was opening up providing a gossamer nose of black fruit with hints of floral notes and sweet earth. Paired with prime filet mignon... pretty garnet with some translucency and faded ruby robe. Palate blossomed over several hours. The slow-o in bottle with full decant later really works well for older wines. Black currant with mellow spice, cedar and earth. Fruit is in balance with fine-grained tannins. This wine is on the back end of its prime drinking window.
Upon comparison, I prefer the 1990 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon that we had recently ...

2005 Gravner Ribolla Gialla Anfora

Gravner's RG is made in amphorae. It is a wine with a velvety, voluptuous mouthfeel (similar to a great red wine). Decanted 3 hours ahead of dinner and then paired with chicken dijon.
Lighter aromatics. .. the palate is signature Gravner -- ultra smooth satin-like texture and intriguing carambola fruit with food friendly minerality and salinity ....
A contemplative and, yes, even beguiling wine --- it keeps evolving and pulling you back in for more.

1998 Parusso Bussia Vigna Rocche

.... In a word: Finesse...
Gorgeous fruit bouquet immediately upon opening the bottle.  Slow-ox in bottle for 2 hours prior to dinner, then decanted at the restaurant.  First taste upon opening : full bodied but supremely balanced, classic Nebbiolo profile of red fruit and dried flowers.  Tannins have mellowed and the wine is in a perfect window for drinking at this point in time.  Recommend drinking within the next two years for prime enjoyment. 
At dinner, everything had come together seamlessly with fruit, acidity and come-hither sottobosco... overall impression is grace and smoothness.  A wonderful dinner wine... paired with:
Appetizer... Hushpuppies stuffed with crawfish and shrimp in a leek fondue drizzled with creole sauce 
Entrees...Black onion marinated lamb tenderloin and Georges Bank sea scallops
Sides ...sorghum glazed shaved Brussel sprouts with caramelized onions and bacon ...sweet potato risotto with candied shallots & crème fraiche ... roasted wild mushrooms with truffle crescenza

Sunday, December 8, 2013

2011 Carlisle Winery "The Derivative"

Was introduced to this wine recently by a friend.  An interesting blend of 66% Semillon, 24% Muscadelle, and 10% Chasselas Dore.  Spicy,sweet melon flavor profile with hints of lemon.  Attractive botrytis-like nose.  Wonderful Apéritif wine...notes on the wine bottle indicate that it is sourced from vines planted between 1886 and 1920. From Sonoma County, and the talented hands of Mike Officer and Jay Maddox.

1996 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Enrico VI

My first experience with this producer...
Opened and decanted 3.5 hours prior to dinner…. Sweet massive tannins, leather, tobacco … beautiful earthy bouquet…. Lush ripe dark cherry fruit.  Almost cabernet-like , almost chocolatey in its richness but there is wonderful acidity to balance … 14% alcohol.
1.5 hours after opening … unbelievable ripe dark cherry kirsch fruit takes over as the tannins recede somewhat.  Absolutely monster fruit with gorgeous Nebbiolo profile … This wine will go another 15 years…
Paired at dinner with grilled lamb chops, garlic & prosciutto mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach with garlic, mushrooms oreganato … Finished up the bottle at the end of dinner about 4.5 hours after opening with a bit of chocolate for dessert …
A really nice 1996 bottling.  More approachable than some ‘96’s I have had. 
From the Villero vineyard in Castiglione Falletto.

Friday, December 6, 2013

2000 Manzone Le Gramolere Bricat

Opened and decanted. .. after a couple of hours it was still quite tannic - a massive earthy rustic wine. Can't tell if there's enough potential for this one to around.
Finished the second half of the bottle a week later. It had mellowed a bit and was good with spinach and mushroom pizza. Fruit more evident, peaking out from the hugely structured backbone. Earthy cherry with hint of mint. Is this a Randy Dunn style Barolo that takes 25 years to come together?  
Manzone Barolos can require extended periods of cellaring since they are derived from vineyards fairly high in altitude. I have enjoyed 1999 vintage of Manzone Le Gramolere and Santo Stefano di Perno, both of which are more approachable and seem to have better balance (http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2013/02/il-fascino-dei-vini-maturi.html )

2005 Vodopivec Vitovska Classica

A fantastic Friulian orange wine ... this wine is actually showing a bit better at this point than the 2005 Gravner Breg (reviewed previously http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2013/10/maiden-voyage-2005-gravner-breg-anfora.html )
The Vodopivec has really nice spicy apricot fruit with satiny texture and attractive aromatics. The Friuli wines are a revelation !

1996 Sottimano Barbaresco Cotta Vigna Brichet

Paired with mushroom ravioli. Smoky cherry with hints of roses and tar. Mouthwatering acidity in balance with fine tannins. Faded ruby color (quite dark for older Nebbiolo) with garnet robe. More approachable now than some of this vintage's big Barolos. A lovely aged Barbaresco.

1996 Lamy Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien

Have always enjoyed chardonnay from this vineyard which borders Puligny-Montrachet. The 1996 vintage is especially good. Bracing lemon with fine stony minerality. After a couple of hours, it really started to open up and began to display complementary tropical notes. A lovely example of this vineyard, which has an interesting name that means "dog toothed stone wall". Lamy is one of the best known producers in the Saint-Aubin appellation.

1998 Elia Pasquero Barbaresco Sori Paitin

Decanted about 3.5 hours ahead of dinner. Massive tannins and an incredible amount of sediment. Tight on the nose. Would it open up? Put the genie back the bottle and took it to a restaurant. After a vigorous 2nd decant at the restaurant, a wonderful fruit bouquet exploded from the wine. Wow! Paired with filet mignon and creamed spinach .... this Sori Paitin was a killer wine. Very big and up front, the fruit opened up to complement the structure. Earthy black cherry with characteristic roses & tar. Drinking really nicely now, it has plenty of stuffing for another five years easily. This '98 Sori Paitin is a much bigger wine than the 1997 Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace Barbaresco Marcarini that we had recently ...