2004 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 and 2011 F. Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero

Interesting development over the evening with these wines.....both pop and pour into decanter at the restaurant. ...  

...the '11 F. Alessandria Monvigliero was the favorite early in the dinner... this is a gorgeous and supremely approachable,  Burgundian style version of Monvigliero.  Paired well with grilled octopus. 

.... '04 La Rioja Alta 904 Rioja Gran Reserva exhibited tannic influence early ... and seemed a bit bombastic next to the elegant '11 Monvigliero.  As the evening progressed,  the Rioja Alta calmed down and the fruit opened up , manifesting a wonderfully food friendly tension with the structure of the wine. Red and blue fruits with hints of smoke and cedar as the Rioja continued to open up and paired beautifully with veal stuffed tortellini and sauteed spinach drizzled with balsamic reduction. 
Ultimately,  the Rioja pulled ahead in popularity, principally due its gravitas in pairing with the entree. ..and displaying more depth and complexity (advantage in the older vintage column).  

Pinot Noir Wine Dinner

Theme was to compare pinot noir from Burgundy, California and Oregon.  Thanks to fellow Vinous member Leonard Taylor and his wife, Jill, for co-hosting a lovely evening and generously contributing to the line-up from their cellar and also helping with stemware  :) 

Eclectic white wines - first flight paired with sauteed scallops:

2012 Sadie Family Old Vine Series Skurfberg - 100% Chenin Blanc from South Africa. Killer nose...totally fascinating mix of minerality and fruit.... satiny, dusty texture with beautifully dry finish. I very much liked this wine. My favorite of the flight.

2012 Sine Qua Non "In the Abstract" - 37% Chardonnay,  31% Roussanne, 16% Petite Manseng, 16% Viognier.  Very rich nose, delicious fruit. Krankl is known for his deftness at blending white varietals into fascinating wines.  This had a beautiful oily texture reminiscent of a great Northen Rhone white. Finish was a tad warm. 

2014 Nicora "The Undisclosed" - 58% Viognier,  42% Roussanne.  This was voted favorite of the flight. Young,  but showing elegantly.  Should develop well. Did not exhibit the pleasingly oily texture of the SQN. Honestly, I spent so much time with the Skurfberg and the SQN that my impressions are not that lucid for the Nicora.

2007 François Cotat Sancerre Les Culs de Beaujeu - my first experience with this vineyard. I have enjoyed the Mont Damnes cuvee before. The fruit seemed a bit past its prime on this bottle. Opened up nicely with lemon and mineral palate. 

2014 Mas de Pampelonne - 55% Grenache,  30% Cinsault,  15% Tibouren.  I don't drink much rose but this was very nice. Killer nose. Beautiful grenache palate. Great QPR.

Pinot Noir (2006 and younger) - second flight paired with lobster ravioli:

2007 F. Magnien Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots - showed magnificently. Just what you want in a red Burgundy.  This was voted favorite of the flight. Elegant and balanced fruit and sous bois , very nice complexity on the finish.  I've always had  good luck with Les Suchots from just about any Producer. 

2007 Rhys Alpine Vineyard Swan Terrace - This is why Rhys deserves their great reputation.  This bottle rivets your attention with an irresistible nose coupled with mouth-watering fruit and minerality.  I had a hard time picking between the Rhys and the Les Suchots as my favorite.  The fruit was incredible on the Rhys (while maintaining balance) . The Les Suchots had more complexity and longer finish.  

2008 Bryce - I think this was the last vintage that Bruce Bagnall made from the Bryce Vineyard before he passed away.  The Bryce Vineyard cuvee continues in the hands of Ken Wright. It's been years since I've tasted this wine, and time has been very kind. This is what I look for in Oregon pinot noir. Very elegant black cherry , with dusty Asian spices, sous bois and very subtle anise on the finish.  It was ridiculously difficult to pick a favorite from this flight. All of the wines were so delicious on their own merits. 

Bonus wine for this flight - 2013 Big Table Farm Sunnyside Vineyard - young, bright cherry flavors complemented by a pleasing, if somewhat shy, nose. I like this Producer. This bottle has a nice future ahead. 

Pinot Noirs (2000 - 2005) - third flight paired with marinated grilled tuna:

2005 Camille Giroud Beaune Cent-Vignes - this was so delicious right from the start upon uncorking the bottle. Gravitas of Beaune cru with lovely balance ... not a brooding wine at all. I like the style at Camile Giroud.  The only slight drawback was a bit of hollowness on the mid-palate. This became more noticeable as the night continued on with so many wonderful wines for comparison.  

2004 Rochioli East Block - Wow!  A stunner for sure. Rochioli is one of my favorite producers of California pinot noir. This is a huge wine that can easily go another ten years. Tremendous presence and it will only get better. Dense, rich, extracted rasberry fruit with long finish. Complex and deep nose. This was voted favorite of the flight. 

2005 Thomas - somewhat of a cult wine in Oregon.  Old school pinot noir.  This was actually the oldest example I've enjoyed. Tasty red fruit (so much more conservative compared to the Rochioli ) with nice flint and earth tones. I liked this wine, but it had a very very slight hint of effervescence on the finish that I found somewhat distracting. 

Pinot Noir ( 1999 and older) - fourth flight paired with selection of cheeses 
Affine with ginger - this is killer stuff from the Netherlands
Comte
Havarti
Goat cheese with cranberries and walnuts

1999 Jacques Prieur Beaune-Greves - a wine with serious gravitas. The nose was shy all night with faint florals and hints of anise. Palate of minerally black cherry, balsam, spice and sous bois. The finish became very intriguing as the evening progressed.  My favorite of the flight. 

1999 Martinelli Martinelli Vineyard Reserve - voted favorite of the flight. Martinelli Reserve is always a crowd pleaser.  This cuvee has stunning longevity.  Shame that the vineyard was sold off years ago. The last vintage was 2003. Never a shy wine, the red raspberry fruit is bold and captivating. Nicely complemented by spice and earth. Very lengthy and delicious finish although the high abv level is a bit too overt compared to the other wines. 

1999 Beaux Freres Beaux Freres Vineyard - the older vintages of this wine always sneak up on me with their attractivenesss as things unfold. Quite modest when first opened, it revealed a grace and balance over the evening that makes it an endearing Yamhill example. I really enjoy the understated nature of this wine. Aged red cherry, spice and dusty nuances of earth. 

2011 Produttori del Barbaresco Riservas : Rabaja, Asili and Pajé

Steve Russo and I participated in a tasting of the 2011 vintage Produttori at a local wine shop. Got to meet Jeff Henson, fellow Vinous member, for the first time.  

On to the wines....

.... all showed beautifully with the Pajé being the most open at this stage and imminently drinkable. Elegant,  lithe and highly alluring ...  luscious fruit balanced with nice underlying minerality. .. very, very nice florals on the nose with accents of balsam and lilting creosote.  The Pajé attracted everyone's immediate attention as the tasting got underway. It's going to be hard to keep my hands off of these bottles. 

The Asili is bigger, beautiful and more closed at this point, yet exhibiting an overall refinement with intriguing notes of tobacco and sous bois. Some hints of anise on the nose. It opened up more in the glass over the next hour or so, and had the most distinctive profile of the three cuvee's tasted.  Today’s showing previewed the bright future ahead for this bottling. ..

Now we come to my favorite of the flight, even though I perceived it (initially) to be the least ready to drink and not revealing much. Bold tannins (but not hard) with dark, pristine cherry fruit and a framework of fine minerality. Savory balsamic influence began to unfold on the palate which, coupled with mint and spices on the nose, had me coming back to this beauty again and again. The Rabaja captured my attention as the most complex and fascinating of the three cuvee's tasted at this session. What a wine  :) 

2001 Clark-Claudon Cabernet Sauvignon

A great example of a family owned and produced Napa Cabernet (14.2% abv) readily available on the 2ndary market that is drinking deliciously now, and can be purchased in the $50 to $60 range which is a steal compared to some of the current release prices for Napa Cabs.

Slow-o'd for 6 hours prior to dinner and then decanted at the restaurant.  Still slightly young, the classic Howell Mountain tannic structure bodes well for continued development. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon estate fruit is beautiful ... blackberry,  cassis, pencil lead.... more blue fruit on the finish with air. Attractive nose... florals with a bit of plum for depth. Nice complexity with intriguing finish. I believe the tannins will continue to melt and this will be a real beauty in another 5 to 7 years. 

Paired very well with prime aged strip steak, onion rings and braised cabbage with bacon. 

2006 Martinelli Pinot Noir Lolita Ranch

Say what you will about big California Pinot Noir...  but when you are in the mood for pure expression of pinot noir fruit, then there are few families in California that do it better than Martinelli. A unique trait of the Martinelli pinot's is the diversity of styles which reflect transparency to terroir.  Many of the pinots are big wines yet they also produce a gloriously elegant cuvee from Three Sisters Vineyard. 

Lolita Ranch is a steeper hillside vineyard, influenced by shale, and planted to Dijon clones 667, 777 and 115. This bottling is labeled with 15.7 abv, which is ridiculous for a pinot noir, however somehow it works. Possibly because this bottle is being enjoyed at ten years of age. There heat is not overt, just a bit ripe on the finish. But, OMG, this is palate pleasing stuff. 

Attractive florals and spice on the nose. Raspberry fruit with sous bois, spice and hint of anise. Nice balance that belies the excessive alcohol....perhaps the influence of Helen Turley as consulting winemaker. ...... the bottle is gone before you know it. 
Interestingly,  I have not had any of Martinelli's latest release pinots. The youngest I've enjoyed is 2007. I believe that forum member Don Vogt visited Martinelli recently and gave a thumbs up on more current vintages. 

Friday Vespers at Our Lady of Monsanto

Paired with the holy trinity of pork ...
Speck, Sausage, Peppers 
{Insert genuflect here}
Peace Be with You  :) 

Wow, this is good stuff! 
2011 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva is drinking beautifully now. Better to pop and pour since there is an oh-so-slight tightening of the tannins if it is decanted. 
Beautiful florals on the nose upon uncorking the bottle and ripe fruit palate that bode well for this wine as it reaches maturity in a few years. 

Sangiovese with dollops of Canaiolo and Colorino ... 14% abv
Rich, juicy palate of primarily red fruit with hints of blue fruit peeking out on the finish. Faint eucalyptus notes and some hints of stone ... nice acidity. Slight heat on the finish but not too distracting.  Overall very well balanced and one of the best showings for a young CCR that I've ever tasted. 

I wonder what the average elevation is in Chianti vs. Montalcino area (Brunello ).  I tend to enjoy CCR's more ... is it more mountain style fruit?  Certainly seemed that way on our visit to the area last summer... 

2010 Nicolas Joly Savennières Les Vieux Clos

My first exploration of the wines of Nicolas Joly.  Fruit and texture reminded me somewhat of orange wines from Friuli. 

Decanted for aeration  (which definitely benefits the wine). 100% Chenin Blanc , 14.5% abv. Melon fruit with dusty, substantial texture & mouthfeel .... and a nice pop of minerality from the schist terroir. Pronounced grassy, herbal notes on the finish which subsided after about 90 minutes, revealing a more honeyed palate and sweeter florals on the nose. (Reflective of inclusion of botrytised grapes)

This is a nice food wine. Paired with cheese ravioli using fresh home made pasta. Info at

http://coulee-de-serrant.com/en/presentation/


http://mobile.nytimes.com/2010/05/26/dining/reviews/26wine.html?pagewanted=all&referer=

Day 2 notes:
I like this wine  :) 
The nose is fascinating with musky, honeyed notes... very alluring.
 On the palate, salinity (from the schistose terroir? ) provides tasty counterpoint to the savory melon flavors. 
The finish has become more complex lasting a good 10 to 15 seconds, with sweeter (almost muscadine?) notes at the very end from the botrytised grapes. 
A nice minerality anchors the package.  Will be looking for more wines from Nicolas Joly.

1998 Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche Falleto and 1998 Giacosa Barbaresco

Several wines lined up for a steak dinner with the stars of the bunch being the two '98 Giacosa's. In my limited experience with Giacosa wines, the young ones benefit from copious aeration.  

The '98 Rocche was slow-o'd overnight and then poured into a decanter to breathe for about 8 hours before dinner. This treatment significantly improved how the wine showed. 
As a side note, I will say that I had the privilege of enjoying a diverse array of Giacosa Barolo and Barbaresco at Festa del Barolo in Feb 2015. If I recall correctly, the vintages ranged from the mid to late '90's and then from '90, '89, '85, and then from '78, '74, '71. While all were drinking well, it was the beautiful wines from the 1970's which stole the show for me, and in particular a 1971 Barbaresco San Cristoforo which still haunts my palate today  :)   
I say this to emphasize the youth of the '98 vintage Giacosa's we enjoyed this past weekend. 
Following the '98 Rocche over the course of about 24 hours. Tight upon opening, it started to settle down once in the decanter for extended aeration. By dinner, the lovely signature sweetness began to come into its own. Very translucent and elegant color  (aptly passing the Soldera test). Nose stayed reticent until the very end of the evening. Burnished balsam-inflected cherry fruit with hints of spice and slight notes of anise. Everything in balance as would be expected from this pedigree. 
Quite a bit of sediment infused wine from the '98 Rocche was reserved and set to the side at the initial decant. These few ounces were slow filtered using a paper coffee filter. The results were spectacular on this "press run", with amplified floral aromatics and beautiful concentration of le Rocche fruit character.  Reminded of the great video that Roy Piper produced on why he likes to use press wine as part of his blend in making great wines. 

The '98 Giacosa Barbaresco normale is a very nice wine, more tannic than the Rocche and exuding flavorful but coarser fruit. Denser nose and more piquant palate. This would show better in a few years perhaps. 

Sadly, we had none of either Giacosa wines left over for day 2 impressions. 

'04 Castello di Neive Santo Stefano Riserva. .. pleasing but paled in comparison to the Giacosa's.  More exuberant nose, bigger fruit, darker color, more tar influence on the palate. We did have some of this wine left over that we enjoyed a couple of days later and it seemed to have improved,  exhibiting more sweetness in the tannins and more elegance in the nose. 

The '11 F. Alessandria Gramolere was opened and decanted for 8 hours prior to dinner. This is a lovely,  elegant wine on its own, but its youth showed significantly compared to the other wines. Extremely well balanced and burgundian in color and density.  

The '02 Forman Cabernet Sauvignon was a last minute addition to the line up. Popped and poured into a decanter.  It improved over the course of the evening,  but was overshadowed by the wines from Piemonte. This bottling was a bit subdued with a softer palate than I am accustomed to with Forman Cabs. The signature olive component that I enjoy in Forman Cabs was hiding that night and didn't seem to want to come out. I enjoyed this wine but have had better examples from other vintages.