What makes a good Pinot Noir? Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, or rather the tastebuds with Pinot Noir.
Case in point: the 2008 Loring Keefer Ranch …
I have a difficult time recognizing this wine as a pinot noir. While it is young, it exhibits a clearly over-extracted style - almost syrah-like in its body and color, characterized by ponderous black cherry notes and muddy tannins. There is an earthiness, but it’s not typical of pinot.
Here's an interesting thread on the Wine Library TV website that echoes this perspective:
http://forums.winelibrary.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&p=589009&sid=b143bae4278a1b154b6149033132baf9
Of the three major U.S. pinot producing regions (Oregon, northern California and central coast California), northern California presents more of a challenge in terms of producing great pinot noir.
While the '08 Loring Keefer may improve over time in the bottle, it may not possess the basic raw material to become much more than it is now.
The bottom line is that it presents a stark contrast to the '08 Loring Shea. I’m looking forward to tasting the '08 Loring Aubaine from the central coast California region.
One thing you can say about Brian Loring: the gentleman has true Negociant blood running in his veins.
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