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Sunday, July 26, 2015

2007 Chateau de St. Cosme Gigondas Valbelle

At St. Cosme, Louis Barruol makes some of the best (and affordable) wines from both southern and northern Rhone. 

 I am particularly fond of his Cote-Rotie
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/03/chateau-de-saint-cosme-cote-rotie-2003.html?m=1

With the recent debate on the 2007 vintage in southern Rhone, I wanted to revisit the '07 Valbelle.  This tasting echoed my experience last year with the wine. It is a fine wine, yet seems a bit ponderous. Mostly Grenache (80 year old vines) with a dollop of Syrah, but the weight of the wine on the palate indicates a higher percentage of Syrah (or is it just an overripe style with the Grenache...?).  14.5% abv for '07 Valbelle.  Note that the '03 Cote-Rotie is a well-balanced 13.5% abv.  Evidence of a trend towards riper harvests in general in the Rhone? - or - just the warmth of the '07 vintage? 

Dark raspberry with attractive accents of lilac on the nose.  Hints of creosote and olive on the palate. Notes from the St. Cosme website indicate whole cluster was used in later vintages.  Notes for the '07 Valbelle do not specifically state that whole clusters were used, but there is a spicy character to the palate that may suggest some percentage of whole cluster was used. St. Cosme website notes a high percentage of limestone terroir for vineyards that comprise the Valbelle cuvee.

I suppose the question is, with more time in the cellar, will this evolve into the lithe, delightful Gigondas of old?  I think not. 

Perhaps closer in style to the Saxum wine we had last week. Certainly a good thing if that is what you are looking for, however perhaps not what one seeks in more traditional southern Rhones. 

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