NV Bérêche et Fils Rive Gauche Extra Brut (2014)

An interesting counterpoint to the beautiful Bérêche  Le Cran (2010) that we enjoyed last weekend, and a first foray for me with a 100% Pinot Meunier Champagne. 

This edition of Rive Gauche  is still young at this juncture. Several more years of cellaring should bring out more nuance. 

Right now, it exhibits a bold attack with ripe, intense fruit. Yet there is a somewhat monolithic earthiness (typical to Pinot Meunier, I believe) that holds the wine back from invoking the emotional response that some of the other Bérêche cuvee's, like Rilly-La-Montagne and Le Cran, are able to. 

Producer notes:

"From Mareuil-le-Port in Vallée de la Marne where the source vines were planted in 1969 on pure clay (no chalk) on a north-facing, late-ripening slope. Fermented with natural yeasts in barrels and aged for eight months on the lees before the tirage. (No malolactic). The vin clair is kept for three years under natural cork.
Disgorged as Extra Brut in October 2017, this release of Rive Gauche is based entirely on the 2014 vintage (but is not a vintaged Champagne). Dosage is 3 g/l."

NV Bérêche et Fils Le Cran Extra Brut (2010)

Disgorged November 2017
3 g/l dosage
50% Chardonnay 50% Pinot Noir 

OMG, what a wine! 👍🍾
For me, I give Le Cran the edge over Dom Perignon and Cristal in terms of character, intensity and sheer thrill...

Riveting slightly oxidative nose of honeycrisp apples, flowers and hints of yeast. Very fine, playful mousse.

Taut, thrilling palate of tart red berry, iodine and chalk with a wonderfully complex, dry saline finish.

Paired with:

- Risotto al Salto (rice cake with Asiago-Parmesan fondue with bits of crispy Prosciutto)

- Whole roasted Branzino with a delicious Mediterranean version of Pommes Anna with cherry tomatoes and capers.

Autolysis reference 
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autolysis_(wine)

Producer notes:

"Since joining their father Jean-Pierre in 2004 and 2008 respectively, Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche have risen to the head of the class of Champagne’s corp of elite grower producers.



Integral to the Bérèche style is the systematic suppression of malolactic fermentation, a method that allows the Le Cran cuvee to showcase the complexity of its 40 year-old, Premier Cru fruit while retaining the nervy acidity of Ludes (Montagne de Reims).

The “Cran” vineyard was planted to Chardonnay on west–facing hills in 1969, and the “St. Jean” vineyard was planted to Pinot Noir on east-facing hills in 1973. Together these two vineyards, in dense, chalky soil provide the structure for a long-lived, powerful yet elegant Champagne from the two varieties.

The wine is fermented and aged in neutral barrels before the vin clair is assembled. Then the wine receives its second fermentation in bottle under cork–a hugely labor-intensive practice, which produces discreet, elegant bubbles. 



Wines are bottled around May, without filtration and with a natural cold-settling, achieved by opening all of the cellar’s windows and waiting for three days.

A small dosage, usually 3–6 g/l, depending on the vintage is added after the manual disgorgement. Unlike many growers who are embracing the idea of concentrated must for the dosage, Bérèche adamantly prefers a traditional liqueur.

The original Bérêche estate is centered around 2.5 hectares of vines established by Leon and Albert Bérêche in 1847. Successive generations expanded the property, and today there are a total of 9.5 ha in and around the communes of Craon de Ludes, Ormes, Trépail, and Mailly, all in the Montagne de Reims, as well as the area around Mareuil-le-Port on the left bank of the Marne. The 0.15 ha Mailly parcel, acquired in 2012, is their first Grand Cru vineyard. "

(Le Cran T-Shirt photo courtesy Donald Pennet, taken at Bérêche cellars)

NV Agrapart Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs Grand Cru

Sourced from Grand Cru parcels in Avize, Oger, Cramant and Oiry. I didn't record the disgorgement date from the label, but it was likely 2018 or 2019. Dosage is usually in the 5g/l range, but I could swear it was lower. There is a beautiful balance to this wine.

A "wow" impression right off the bat... Entrancing florals with hints of fresh biscuit on the nose. Gives way to a palate of citrus with a very tasty vein of salinity... there is a riveting tension to the framework that makes it hard to put the glass down. Opening up over the course of the evening, I thought I was drinking a nice Chablis.

Grand Cru quality at a ridiculously reasonable price...

2005 Bouchard Pommard Rugiens

Pop and pour... opened up beautifully over the course of the evening. 

Shy nose at first and then blossoming with classic sous bois influenced florals. Palate of tart cherry, earth and spice supported by dusty, perfectly aged tannins. One of the finest examples of Pommard that I've had from this Producer. 

Drinking at peak now. Nicely reflective of terroir characterized by hard white marl over iron-rich red clay.