2009 Domaine Joblot Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier Aux Moines

PnP 13.0% abv.

Mellow tart red cherry, mushroom and forest floor. Refined tannins with a hint of sweetness. Wonderful savory notes that gain presence over the course of several hours. Not a lot of complexity on the finish, but it doesn't matter much at this stage since the quality of fruit is so alluring. This disappeared quickly. Very nice QPR ($45 range) . Definitely looking for more. 

Paired nicely with pecan encrusted chicken, mushroom risotto and broccoli - pear salad. 

I am really liking these wines from Givry...

Here are notes on background of the Domaine:

"...The wines of Givry have been lauded since the time of Henri IV, however since phylloxera hit the Côte Chalonnaise in the late 1800s, the appellation has been slow to recover. Leading its resurgence are brothers Jean-Marc and Vincent Joblot, who have brought pride and fame to Givry for their refined, sumptuous, spicy and balanced cuvées. Influenced by Burgundian legend Henri Jayer, Jean-Marc’s winemaking style is celebrated by critics for lending charm and finesse. As such, the Joblots have shown that the wines of Givry may be less well-known today than they were centuries ago but still rival those of the neighboring Côte de Beaune. Today the brothers are joined by Jean-Marc’s daughter, Juliette...."
 
"....The microclimate and terroirs of Givry are ideal. A natural, three-mile amphitheater shelters the commune from the westerly winds, and the rocky, limestone soils impart a chiseled minerality on the wines. The Joblots farm 13.5 hectares sustainably, nine of which are exclusively in premier cru vineyards. Among these are their premier crus Clos de la Servoisine and Clos du Cellier aux Moines, the best parcels in the appellation situated above the village with full southern exposure. A severe de-budding and green harvest keeps yields low. Unlike many vignerons who judge the ripeness of their grapes on brix, the Joblots base their decision on acidity levels. During the harvest, sorting occurs in the vineyards, and they are known to drop up to 40 percent of a vintage if it fails to meet their standards...."
 
"...Jean-Marc is the master of the cellar, and his non-interventionist approach allows the terroirs to speak for themselves. All but 10 percent of the grapes are de-stemmed. He seeks long, cool macerations for optimal extractions. While he vinifies each parcel separately, each cuvée undergoes natural fermentation in the same manner so that the finished wines highlight of the character of the individual terroirs. His longstanding relationship with local cooper François Frères allows him to tailor the barrels to his specifications; in fact, Jean-Marc prefers a sweeter smelling barrel to one that is charred, which he believes integrates into the wines well. He bottles the wines unfiltered to allow them a pure expression of fruit...."

2009 Anthill Farms Pinot Noir Abbey Harris Vineyard

AG's notes from December 2011 are still applicable in that this is a big wine. At its current stage, it seemed rather clumsy having been juxtaposed next to the bright flavors in the 2008 Clos Salomon Givry 1er Cru.

The Abbey Harris was the more popular of the two pinot noirs that I poured for the group at dinner that evening, but it was lacking in definition for my palate.  Recent forays with younger vintages of Anthill Farms pinot noir have shown more elegant, Burgundian styled wines.  This bottle of '09 Abbey Harris is not like that. Red cherry fruit, with somewhat muddled palate. Perhaps a poorly stored bottle...

2008 Clos Salomon Givry 1er Cru "Clos Salomon" (Monopole)

A producer that is new to me. 13.5% abv.

Bright, high-toned sour cherry fruit, nice acidity, sous bois and subtle hints of clove.  Reserved aromatics ... more savory than floral.  

Benefits significantly from extended aeration, with some of the sharp edges becoming more rounded off. 

A very enjoyable wine. Solid representation of Cote Chalonnaise quality.  Influenced by same limestone substrate found in Volnay, I believe.

Some intriguing background on this cru... 

..."The Clos Salomon first triggered the radar of history 700 years ago when it became a favorite of Henry IV and the Pope of Avignon. In 1558, François de Thésut purchased the Clos Salomon, and the monopole has remained intact in this devoted family for over 450 years. Today, Ludovico du Gardin, along with his winemaker and business partner Fabrice Perrotto, maintains the quality that put Givry on the map seven centuries ago. A partnership outside the family is a rarity for such a pedigreed monopole, which only lends evidence of the incredible talent Fabrice brings to the table. This incredibly dedicated duo continues to push the envelope in terms of quality, which results in a red Burgundy that is peerless at such a remarkable value...."

 

...."Together, Ludovico and Fabrice eschew any use of insecticides and herbicides, work the vineyard by hand and plow by horse. The treasured 50-year-old vines from the 7-hectare vineyard are kept incredibly low to the ground, which results in the immense concentration found in the glass. The Clos ranges in aspect and elevation and is comprised of various limestone, fractured stones, and heavy clay, reminiscent of Volnay, which translates to an immense scope in complexity. Perched just above the vines lies a forest that cools the ideally situated vineyards at night and lends the enchanting essence of forest floor to the wine’s bouquet. The hand-harvested fruit is meticulously sorted on a vibrating table, cold soaked for 5-10 days then fermented with only natural yeast in open tanks. The wine completes malolactic fermentation in barrel and ages for twelve months on its fine lees....."

2009 La Peira Terrasses du Larzac Matissat (Coteaux du Languedoc)

Slow-o in bottle for 4 hours. 14.5% abv.  This is a small production luxury cuvee from La Peira, and their only single varietal bottling (all Mourvedre).

Ripe plum, cassis with kirsch-like mouthfeel.  Lacking in the structure and underlying chalky minerality that makes the 2010 version so compelling.  Jammy delicious wine with a more or less simple finish.  Not sure what additional cellaring will bring. Good but not great.

Many gravitated to the more classically structured 2005 Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granits that was poured alongside this. 



Notes on the estate from Jeb Dunnuck in April 2014...

A reference point producer in the Languedoc, and in my view, easily one of the top estates in all of France, La Peira en Damaisela was created in 2004 by Australian composer Rob Dougan, with the talented Jeremie Depierre making the wines.

Covering 11 hectares of gravely, rocky soils in the Terrasses du Larzac region, they produce a single white, based on Roussanne and Viognier, and four red cuvees; the Cinsault/Carignan-driven Les Obriers; the Grenache heavy (includes 25% Syrah and smaller parts Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan) Las Flors de La Peira; their top wine, the La Peira, which is a 60/40 blend of Syrah and Grenache; and a tiny amount of pure Mourvedre, the Matissat. 


Recent notes on the estate from Jeb Dunnuck in April 2016...

The news at La Peira is the moving of winemaker Jeremie Depierre and the bringing on of new winemaker Audrey Bonnet–Koenig, who’s originally from Strasbourg, Alsace. Audrey studied in Bordeaux, working with the likes of Chateau Doisy Daene and Chateau Cheval Blanc, before working in the Languedoc at Château de Sérame. She’s joined as well by Claude Gros who has lent consulting advice here since the start. 

2005 Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granits Rouge

From magnum.  13.5% abv. 5 hours in decanter before dinner. Benefits from as much aeration as possible. Gets really good after 8 hours of air.

Finally opening up, blackberry fruit complemented by incisive acidity, stony minerality, olive accents... a bit of kirsch, white pepper and allspice coming in on the finish. Subtle violet and game on the nose. 

Made in a classic style. Will try to hold off a few years before tapping into another magnum.

Paired nicely with Chateaubriand, sauteed Brussels sprouts, corn pudding.

2010 Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granits Blanc

Decanted. Takes a while to open up. 13.5% abv. 432 case production. 

Old vines Marsanne from granite soils in Tournon. Oily texture (moderate viscosity), stony citrus fruit, beeswax, ginger... slight pear and petrol notes on spicy finish with a nice pop of acidity.  Nose is a bit shy with light florals.

Paired this with fig cake, gruyere and honeycomb. Out of this world tasty  :) 

2010 Chateau de Vaudieu Chateauneuf-du-Pape

This in the zone now  :)  

Decanted.  Drank well right out of the gate, but really started to take off after an hour or so.

Mostly Grenache with some Syrah and Mourvedre.  Fascinating balance and complexity for a relatively young wine. 

Superb quality, refined red fruit, finely polished tannins, with multi-dimensional melange of garrigue and spice on the finish.  Looking forward to seeing how this evolves over the next few years.  Really nice wine.

Vineyard located just to south of Rayas on sandstone soils.  Cambie may have had a hand in crafting this with owner Laurent Brechet.  If so, it is one of the more elegant efforts from Cambie's stable of projects.  I think the mission here would be let the terroir speak for itself...and in that they have succeeded.

Paired beautifully with veal tortellini. 

Notes on Chateau de Vaudieu from Robert Parker in Oct 2012:

This large estate owned by the Brechet family has resurrected this real chateau, one of the few in Chateauneuf du Pape, to the top rank of estates in the village. The Brechet family has also done some remarkable work in Gigondas. Their consultant, Philippe Cambie, also deserves a lot of credit.

The regular Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 80% Grenache and the rest mostly Syrah and some Mourvedre. The Grenache is aged in tank and the other two varietals spend time in new 600-liter demi-muids.

The Val de Dieu cuvee is composed of 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 15% Mourvedre that is given the same treatment as the regular offering.

The estate’s newest effort, the Chateauneuf du Pape Amiral G, is 100% Grenache from some of the oldest vines. Chateau de Vaudieu is located east of the village of Chateauneuf du Pape, about one-half mile south of Chateau Rayas.

With over 175 acres of vines, this property could be one of the most dominant forces in Chateauneuf du Pape, and it is very encouraging to see what they have accomplished over recent years. Most of their parcels are planted in sand-based soils, but some are also planted in limestone covered with the small boulders called galets roules.

This is another organically farmed vineyard, and by the time this report is published, it may be certified as biodynamic as over three dozen of Philippe Cambie’s clients now are. The 2010s are major successes, even for this spectacular vintage.
 

2006 Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC

Double decanted to breathe for a couple of hours prior to dinner. Very little sediment.
15% abv. Blend of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella. Average age of vines is 30 years on limestone and basalt substrate.

Vinification process:

•  50% of grapes are pressed immediately after harvest, 50% are dried for 2 months

•  After 3-4 days of maceration, primary fermentation starts with indigenous yeasts

• Wine is racked and then sits until February

•  Wine is racked onto the lees of the Amarone which starts a second alcoholic fermentation (this process is called ripasso)

•  After this fermentation, the wine is racked into large Slavonian oak barrels for seven years

The 2006 is an elegant mid-weight wine that is very approachable now. Red currant, spice, tobacco, herbs, hint of goudron. Food friendly savory sweetness from appassimento method of vinification. Lovely spicebox florals on the nose. 

This is a very enjoyable wine. One of my favorite producers since Mark Scudiery introduced me to the joys of Quintarelli several years ago.

2014 Kelley Fox Maresh Vineyard Pinot Noir Red Barn Blocks

Pop and pour (13.6% abv) ... Robust stemminess at first (100% whole cluster). Calms down after a while and wonderful savory notes make this wine sort of irresistible, especially with food....quite exotic melange of spice on the nose complements the unique palate.

The antithesis of a mainstream fruit bomb pinot noir.

I will wait 5 years to open more of this. Definitely in the Jim Clendenen school of whole cluster wine-making.

Day 5 (after vacuvin of last quarter of the bottle)...

This wine may be destined for greatness (from an Oregon pinot noir perspective).  Was somewhat disjointed a week ago with stem notes a bit too prominent and too weird.

Now getting a glimpse of things to come and the future looks bright.  Fruit and sous bois into balance.  Much improved overall integration. A high degree of elegance with hints of inner sweetness that are delightful..

2013 Horsepower Syrah The Tribe Vineyard

I continue to be impressed by what Christophe Baron is doing with Syrah in Walla Walla Valley, in this case with the terroir in the renowned Rocks District. This bottle of 2013 vintage HorsePower Tribe Vineyard Syrah (13.5% abv) showed phenomenally well.  It had been opened all day before dinner. Paired perfectly with venison Ossobuco. 

If Cayuse is Baron's interpretation of Chapoutier Hermitage, then Horsepower would correlate nicely to Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle. 

Showing rich black fruit, tapenade and hints of charcoal, there is amazing energy and umami lift on the finish. A fascinating level of complexity in a wine this young that keeps you coming back for more. 

The name Horsepower is derived from use of draught horses for plowing in the vineyards due to tight spacing of vines. 

Count me as a believer in the magic of the Rocks District http://rocksdistrict.com

NV Bereche et Fils Brut Reflet d'Antan

Just starting to explore Bereche wines. What a great place to start with the Reflet d'Antan ! (Disgorged April 2016, 12% abv)

Pop n pour (actually sabre'd and poured). Intriguing aromatics of  orange peel, brioche and toasted nut. Fine mousse gives way to a palate reflecting a beautiful melange of pear, citrus and white blossom, with chalk and mineral underpinnings. Unfolded wonderfully, gaining complexity. Very popular wine at the table this evening. I liked this more than a recent Egly-Ouriet VP we had (which was a bit sharp and needed more cellar time).

A old school solera style wine, imbued with great character.  Comprised of pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay. Paired beautifully with a decadently rich Duck Egg en Cocotte followed by Tagliatelle garnished with Alba truffles.

Highly recommended.

Producer profile
http://www.rarewineco.com/producer/bereche-champagne/

2011 Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino

The 2011 is beautifully open for business. Delicious on pop & pour, while gaining presence over the course of dinner.  Alessandro Mori's estate is located on the northern side of Montalcino.  This is a very elegant and polished mid-weight expression of Sangiovese (14% abv) that becomes quite irresistible. Red fruit, sous bois, with savory finish. I have more stashed away, but will definitely seek out more of this.

The first time I tried this wine was in 2015, when a wine store owner in Radda recommended that I buy his last two bottles of the 2009 vintage. Those bottles were delightful and the 2011 confirms the pedigree for me.

2003 Ceretto Bricco Rocche Brunate

Delicious. Available at very reasonable prices. Not to be missed.  
Double decanted and left in decanter to aerate for six hours.
Don't serve this one at too cool of a temperature.  It really struts its stuff in a very balanced fashion when it warms up.
Supple dark cherry with very, very tasty tar notes and savory tertiary accents of iron and tobacco. My nose is sort of clogged up from the first bout of freezing weather this weekend, but some attractive floral and balsamic notes are coming through the olfactory avenue...
Damn, this is good stuff...
Pairs perfectly with chicken parmigiana, mushrooms oreganata, sauteed spinach, and some solid roots rock from Kings of Leon  :) 



https://youtu.be/DBOuqyqmtJk

2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello

Double-decanted back into clean bottle after aerating in decanter for two hours. The 2001 vintage cru's are entering into a nice window of drinkability, exhibiting some tertiary character. 
The '01 Ovello has beautiful balance with black fruit, sweet tannin, balsam and truffle notes. Finish has developed a bit of complexity. Slightly bretty nose at first that moderated over the evening.
Two thumbs up  :) 

... from the Produttori website describing the Ovello Cru...

Vineyard size: 20.30 ha. (50 acres)
Exposure: South West and South East
Elevation: 250 - 320 meters (820 – 1050 feet)
Vineyard Owners: Audasso, Cavallo, Cravanzola, Gonella, Grasso, Maffei, Odore, Rocca, Sarotto, Unio, Vacca, Varaldo.

Ovello is the northernmost vineyard in the village of Barbaresco, higher on the sea level and dropping down to the river in a 300 feet, abrupt bluff. It is a relatively large area with a number of subzones with West and East exposure, all sharing a similar calcareous soils rich in clay. The extra clay and the cooler microclimate give the Ovello its exuberant and youthful quality in the fruit and its fuller body, which defines its distinctive personality. Explosive fruit on the palate and firm, sometime rough, tannins on the finish, these wines always bring a lot of joy to the palate and deliver powerful structure, that needs some years of bottle ageing to balance out. Domizio Cavazza had vineyards in Ovello (and Pora) when he started producing Barbaresco in 1894. It was also among the first 5 vineyards produced as single vineyard by Produttori in 1967.

Rhone Dinner

Our wine group got together recently at The Oak Steakhouse in Charlotte.  A relatively new addition to the dining scene, their method of charring the steaks over a wood fire is phenomenal.  The service is excellent.

The theme was old world and new world Rhone style wines.  The evening started off with a Bollinger Champange and a 2012 Zind-Humbrecht  (although I didnt get the details or photos).

1983 Jean-Loius Chave Hermitage Blanc
A beauty of a wine in its sunset years. Opened up nicely over the course of the evening. I kept going back to it, finding its elegantly fading flavors fascinating... very light nose with a hint of petrol... minerally quince and honey palate... stone fruit pit with lovely bitterness. I don't get a chance to drink Marsanne much, so this was a great experience.

2015 Sine Qua Non Entre Chien et Loup
(Approximate translation " between dog and wolf" ... the label art will provide context).
This somewhat of a mad scientist approach by Krankl with his whites has yielded stunning results. Comprised of 44% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 8% Petit Manseng, 8% Viognier from the Bien Nacido, Cumulus (Estate) and Eleven Confessions  (Estate) Vineyards. Raised in 19% concrete eggs, 20% stainless steel, 20% used barrels and 41% new French oak.  This was opened to breathe for a couple of hours prior to dinner.  Kaleidoscopic is the first thing that comes to mind. The various flavors come in subtle yet precise waves, each nuance a delightful surprise, with the components melding as a whole on an orchestral finish. The Roussanne provides a clear Rhone-style inclination on the palate.  I like it.  Clearly, Krankl has put a lot of time in to come up with this assemblage, and it works marvelously.  The man is making some of the best wines of his career, IMO.

1990 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle 

A reference point wine for northern Rhone, often compared to the hallowed 1961. Showing quite young for its age.  Timeless La Chapelle pedigree of medium bodied inky black fruit, cassis, mineral, smoke and a wonderful hint of briary anise on the finish. Burgundian in style compared to many of the more massive style offerings of today. Beguiling in its depth with elegance galore and purity of fruit. It actually reminded me a bit in style of Burlotto's Monvigliero efforts..

1999 Chapoutier Ermitage le Pavillon 

Inky black, minerally fruit on a more massive, yet very attractive scale. Meaty, with olive nuance... very tasty, yet next to the 1990 La Chapelle, one gets the sense that it would be better in another 10 years. A concentrated dose of Hermitage at this stage, crafted with evident care, being a pure reflection of this noble varietal. 

2002 Pax Cellars Syrah Pangea

Limited production comprised of 56 cases of magnums (and the bottles have gorgeous etched labels).  I have always enjoyed this cuvee. Whole cluster aged in 500 litre puncheons for 36 months. Drinking smoothly with burnished tannins and in its peak window (unlike the '03 Pangea which is still young). Alluringly pure blackberry and cassis with hints of roasted meat. On this evening, the '02 Pangea is the closest in stage of development to the '90 La Chapelle, albeit both demonstrating different interpretations of Syrah.

2003 Courbis Cornas La Sabarotte 

This has aged nicely into a medium-bodied Burgundian styled Cornas. Blackberry, truffle and graphite. Very food friendly and elegant.  I like this producer.

2012 Sine Qua Non Syrah Touche 

A creative blend of 93% Syrah, 5% Petite Sirah and 2% Viognier from the Estate's Eleven Confessions Vineyard (Sta. Rita Hills). Raised for 40 months in 78% new French oak. 

This one sneaks up on you. Probably the most impressive wine I've ever had from SQN. Balanced and not at all over the top.  Graceful upon entry, this beauty ensnares you, slowly revealing layer upon layer of black fruit, dusty tannins, a bit of well placed spicy nuance from the oak, cassis and tapenade.  A truly riveting, kaleidoscopic  (there's that word again) symphony that is quite surprising for being this young of a vintage.  Maybe it has something to do with the extended barrel aging. 

My favorite wines of the evening were the '90 La Chapelle, the '02 Pangea, and the '12 SQN Touche, for different reasons.  The La Chapelle is the classic, the Pangea captures the heart of new world syrah, and the SQN Touche is just in a class of its own in terms of unique, captivating style.

2004 Hermann Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese A.P. #5

Explosive tropical palate (dominantly pineapple) balanced with mellow acidity. This is a decadently lush but not heavy Spatlese, with an amazing and complex finish that goes on and on. The nose is shy at first, then opening up nicely with elegant tropical notes that echo the palate. No petrol notes. A beautiful example of a top notch Nahe.