2013 Proprietà Sperino Coste della Sesia Uvaggio

PnP. 13% abv

My first foray with this delightful cuvee. Still somewhat early in terms of drinking window, the 2013 Uvaggio uncoils slowly to reveal graceful balance of high quality fruit and texture. Just the right amount of piquancy and smoothness to intrigue one's palate. Translucent body. There is an umami component at work here that makes for an interesting experience 

Mostly Nebbiolo with some Vespolina and Croatina. Sourced from a combination of:

... sandy soils in Ormeggio, Castagnola and Belvedere vineyards in Lessona DOC.

.... volcanic soils in the higher elevation Madonna degli Angeli vineyard in Brusnengo (Forte) , Bramaterra DOC.

Brings to mind the deft blending of Quintarelli (without the appassimento part).

Luca and Paolo De Marchi of Isole e Olena are behind this Alto Piemonte project. 

A very elegant, unique and affordable wine in the $30 range. Could easily be put in an Oregon pinot line up as a ringer.

2003 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva

Mostly Viura with a dollop of Malvasia. This is one of the world's iconic and unique white wines, from a reference-point old school Producer.  I like to decant the LdH whites to provide plenty of air.  Made in an oxidative style, the nose is redolent of marzipan and white flowers, with a subtle hint of matchstick. It will often develop petrol notes with extended cellaring.  Fascinating palate of pear, light citrus, beeswax, and turrón all wrapped in mouthwatering salinity.  The 2003 bottling shows what I would consider to be advancing development over the past several years, so likely better to enjoy sooner rather than later. 

Paired with fresh caught North Carolina black sea bass, pan seared in an iron skillet and served on a bed of lightly fried Carolina Gold rice from Anson Mills. A very creative light glaze was drizzled around the plate and not over the fish , comprised of thin pickled yellow bell pepper strips seasoned with the most delicate kiss of habanero chile imaginable to provide a pleasing warmth and not interfere at all with the wine.  A truly inspired preparation. 

2005 Philip Togni Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Apparent right from the start that it is way too early to open this 2005 vintage wine. Lovely intriguing Bordeaux-ish nose, with a palate that speaks of dusty black fruit and olive accent, and then the tannins clamp down precluding any segue-way toward a fulfilling experience with this wine.  

There is an inexplicably disturbing amount of heat on the finish that paints a very disjointed picture at stage.  Try again in 7 to 10 years ?

In contrast, based on prior experience, the 2006 Togni Estate is a delightful wine that demonstrates elegance even in its youth. Not sure what to make of this disappointing performance of the 2005 bottling. 

Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with small percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.