Piedmont, Priorat, Bordeaux and Mendocino

The Whites

(Paired with crab dip and a selection of cheeses)

2012 Forman Chardonnay

Always a hit.  Not your standard Napa chardonnay.  Bracing minerality with citrus and pear.  Only 10% new oak and no malo. Mr. Forman is a traditionalist.  13.5% alc.

2011 Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay Reserve

A more modern chardonnay (14.5% alc) from Carneros.  Quite tasty ... more peach and hazelnut influence.  The oak is not too obtrusive.  A dependable, enjoyable chardonnay.

The Reds (Paired with grilled bone-in ribeye steaks, broccoli salad and medley of potatoes & root vegetables in white wine)

1998 Elio Altare L'Insieme

First time to try this wine.  2 hours slow-o.  Interesting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Syrah and Petit Verdot from La Morra.  The L’Insieme association is a wine growers initiative and charitable organization founded in 1997 by Elio Altare. This is one of those blends that works due to the high quality of the components and skill of the winemakers. Substantial, but past its prime.  Tasty blackberry, spice and cassis with hints of sweetness. 14% alc.

2000 Mas Garrian Mas del Camperol

From Priorat....  1.5 hours full decant.  Carignan, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and a dollop of Syrah. (14% alc)  I am a fan of Spanish wines made from a blend of different varietals (e.g., Quinta Sardonia, El Nido Clio...)  Raspberry fruit with attractive tartness and minerality. Very enjoyable florals on the nose.  No reason to hang on to this any longer.  It's ready now.

2005 Clos les Lunelles 

From Cotes de Castillon (Right Bank Bordeaux).  Popped and poured with full decant.  Lots of very fine grained sediment.  Really attractive nose right out of the gate with hints of anise.  Took about an hour to start to show its stuff.  Mostly Merlot with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. (14% alc)  Edging out the Insieme as my favorite wine of the evening with its freshness and being in its prime drinking window.  Black fruits, currant and fully integrated sweet tannins.  Very enjoyable minerality.  Rolland is the consulting winemaker.  Note: Day 2 on this wine brought out even more complexity and aromatics, re-confirming it as my favorite. 
 
2007 Agharta Exhibit C

A Pax Mahle project. 15% alc. From Alder Springs Vineyard in Mendocino.  Equal parts Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with a dollop of Petit Verdot.  Aged 48 months in barrel.  Popped and poured with full decant.  Serious funk on the nose that just would not blow off.  Put aside for later.  Day 2 - funk had completely dissipated revealing a subdued nose.  Massive black and red fruits. Tastes a bit more like a big Syrah (?) rather than a right-bank blend.  Monolithic and tasty. I rather like the Agharta Grenache but this bottling is more of a puzzle.

2012 Raffaldini Sangiovese Riserva 

From the Swan Creek Vineyard in the Piedmont of North Carolina.  Very deft 13.7% alc. Bright cherry with cedar. Better on Day 2.

Saxum James Berry 2006, Kanzler 2005, Beau-Sejour Becot 1979

A bit of variety in the wines opened for dinner, which was slow cooked pork loin, collard greens, roasted peppers and cauliflower puree. 

1979 Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot (magnum)Slow-o for a couple of hours prior to dinner.  Amazing how fresh this wine is, likely due to good storage along with enhanced longevity of the magnum format.  A very pleasant Saint-Emilion (12.5% alc.)  Loads of flavor and robust color for a wine this old ... attractive (if somewhat muted) nose .  Mostly Merlot with some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Classic mature cherry palate with interesting tobacco notes and some herbal influence. 

2005 Kanzler Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma)Steve Kanzler makes one of my favorite California pinot noirs. 14.9% alc. Slow-o for 2 hours prior to dinner.  It really started taking off in the glass after extended exposure to air in 3rd hour.  This is a great food wine.  Comprised of clones 667, 115 and Pommard-4.  This wine always has a very tasty anise character that I enjoy (contributed by the 115 clone according to Kanzler).  Big mature raspberry fruit with earth. Here is a link to Steve Kanzler providing a fascinating tour of his vineyard. 
http://www.youtube.com/embed/57jSSynGUvQ?rel=0 

2006 Saxum James Berry Vineyard (Paso Robles)A very nice mature example of Justin Smith's renowned James Berry vineyard bottling. Very nicely balanced wine in spite of the high level of alcohol (15.6%).  Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre.  Full decant on this one.  Really needed two hours to start to show its stuff.  Impressively smooth with subtle underlying minerality ... I think limestone substrate is part of the terroir.  Well - deserved cult status...

Dinner featuring Rhone Varietals from around the World

Thanks to everyone for the great wines and wonderful camaraderie!   

> First Flight <

Paired with 
- Piquillo Peppers stuffed with Goat Cheese 
- Sauteed Scallops

1996 Louis Latour Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres - a personal favorite.  Kept opening up splendidly. Minerally citrus and brioche. 13.5% alc.

2004 Domaine Pascal Cotat Sancerre Chavignol Les Monts Damnes  - a blockbuster Loire Sauvignon Blanc !  Forwardly gorgeous floral & honey nose.  Lusciously matured citrus fruit with underlying salinity ... Voted as post popular wine of this flight. 12.5% alc.

2009 Herman Story Tomboy - blend of Viognier and Roussanne from Santa Barbara ... a perennial favorite... slightly eclipsed this evening by the greatness of the Loire and CdP .  16.1% alc.

2011 Clos St. Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape - showing nicely, this was the 2nd most popular wine of the flight and paired perfectly with the sauteed scallops.  A blend of Roussanne, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc.  Delicate florals on the nose.  Alluring oily, satiny (?) texture on the palate with melon and quince fruits. 14.0% alc.

> Second Flight <

Paired with grilled pork tenderloin, broccoli salad and wild rice consomme

2006 Charles Melton Nine Popes - a blend of old vine Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre from the Barossa Valley.  Very nicely done and drinking well after several hours of air where it gained serious presence.  Intense fruit yet well balanced with that light kiss of sweet fruit that I so enjoy from Mourvedre. My personal favorite of this flight. 14.5% alc. 

2007 Gramercy Cellars Syrah John Lewis - from the Walla Walla Valley. A well-balanced New World interpretation of Syrah echoing Northern Rhone nicely.  Black fruit, spice and olives with a hint of creosote.  13.9% alc.

2009 Chateau Puech-Haut Coteaux du Languedoc Saint Drezery Quercus - 100% Grenache ... far and away the most popular wine of this flight.   Ridiculously alluring lavender and spice nose.  Black raspberry fruit balanced with a nice underlying minerality.  Quite fruit-driven complemented by signature Languedoc garrigue. Philippe Cambie has a hand in this. 15% alc.

2011 La Mujer Canon - single vineyard Grenache from the Gredos Mountains near Madrid.  Attractive florals with earthy blackberry fruit and nicely balanced acidity. 14.5% alc.

> Third Flight <

Paired with selection of cheeses and fruit (Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam, Cypress Grove Chevre Truffle Tremor, Sartori Rosemary & Olive Oil Asiago, Vermont Cheddar drizzled with 10 year Balsamic and local Honey, fresh Honeycrisp Apples)

1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle - simply amazing wine.  Voted most popular wine of this flight and also most popular WOTN by a significant margin.  Purchased on release and held in the same cellar.  I have had the privilege of enjoying this wine on several occasions over the past decade and it always shows impressively.  It was informative tasting the '89 La Chapelle next to the '03 Guigal Cote-Rotie.  Both delicious, but the La Chapelle exhibited such freshness and purity of fruit for an older vintage.  Silky blackberry fruit, earth, spice, notes of creosote.  Kept on going through the evening. Lovely balance with 13.0% alc.

1997 Quintarelli Rosso Ca del Merlo - this was (fortunately) put into the mix because I had opened bottles of Cote-Rotie and Hermitage for this dinner that were corked and put aside.  What can I say about Quintarelli wines that hasn't been said ... This '97 was showing very well.  Gorgeous floral nose leaps from the glass. Violet, red currant, spice and mineral... I wish I had a lot more of this.  Very popular wine at this dinner.  14.0% alc.
Here are some previous notes from the 2000 vintage bottling:
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/03/a-memorable-wine.html 

1998 Rockford Shiraz Basket Press - a relatively rare offering from Barossa Valley producer Robert O'Callaghan. Mellow fruit, sous bois, cassis, and hint of anise.  On the far side of its optimal drinking window (?)...  Will have to try this again (have some left over and will report back). 14.0% alc

2000 Damilano Barolo Cannubi  - I put this into the mix served double blind from decanter.  One of my favorite "go-to" wines ... always enjoy Cannubi and this '00 rendition from Damilano is so attractive right now, yet still has a lot of good years ahead.  Everyone enjoyed this as the "mystery" wine for the evening. 14.0% alc.
Here are previous notes:
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/01/luigi-pira-barolo-marenca-2000-and.html 

2003 E. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde - Wow! This was a very nice surprise.  I usually eschew Guigal CdP's because of oaky characteristics.  This Cote-Rotie does not suffer from oakiness at all.  Delicious plum with sweet tannin, game, smoke and stone.  The nose was incredible as soon as it was opened.  Good length all evening.  Really a nice wine drinking in its optimal window for enjoyment. Very nicely balanced at 13% alc !

Tuesday Evening with Alberto Cordero di Montezemolo

We had the good fortune to enjoy a delightful evening with Alberto Cordero di Montezemolo at a dinner featuring the most recent vintages of his wines.  

The estate, one of the oldest in Italy, has been the family since 1340.  Today, it is run by Giovanni and his two children Elena and Alberto. Holdings consist of 28 hectares of a single vineyard in the Annunziata cru of La Morra’s Monfalletto-Gattera hill.  An additional two hectares are located in the Villero cru of Castiglione Falletto where the Enrico VI bottling is sourced.

I brought a bottle of the 1997 Enrico VI to the dinner which afforded an opportunity to compare with the current 2010 Enrico VI bottling.   It provided a fascinating view into how Villero ages.  The 1997 was slow-o'd for a couple of hours prior to dinner.  The fruit has matured beautifully, yet did not show as robustly as the 1996 tasted last year. 

http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2013/12/1996-cordero-di-montezemolo-barolo.html

The 1997 Enrico VI exhibited the delicious balsamic notes derived from the higher percentage of calcareous marl in Villero.  

The 2010 Enrico VI was gorgeous for such a young Barolo.  Eminently approachable, yet still holding back a lot.  Lovely tar and roses profile provided a fresher counterpoint to the 1997's palate.

This is my first real brush with the 2010 Barolo vintage and it lives up to its great press  :) 

The surprise of the evening was the 2010 Monfalletto, a blend made from parcels that have been vinified separately (not an assemblage).  The 2010 Monfalletto is beautifully engaging now.  Silky and supremely balanced ... Highly recommended ...   

Other wines tasted:

2013 Barbera d'Alba, which came across as quite muted.  

2012 Dolcetto d'Alba which was a delight.... crisp well-delineated fruit with mouth-watering acidity and an alluring nose

2013 Langhe Arneis ... tasty, very enticing fruit with fresh florals on the nose

Alberto, a consummate and engaging host, was heading back home to family by way of NYC later this week.  We look forward to seeing him at La Festa del Barolo in February.

2003 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir Belles Soeurs and 2005 Vodopivec Vitovska Classica

Paired with grilled yellow fin tuna, lemon-herb risotto, marinated artichoke salad.  

Frankly, it's hard to switch from the Vodopivec once you get started.  There is something about this wine that is intriguing and keeps you coming back for more.  For one thing, it continues to evolve nicely over many hours. Wonderful satin mouthfeel coupled with aged fruit redolent of spicy tangerine and carambola.  A very deft 12.5 alcohol. Drink up now.... no upside to further cellaring... although enjoy over many hours and even let it come up to room temperature. .. fascinating stuff. 

Beaux Freres wines in general also benefit from plenty of time for aeration. ... Continued to open up and gain complexity throughout the evening, although in reality this Belle Soeurs is a bit past its prime. A blend from the Ana, Shea and Beaux Freres vineyards.  14.4% alc. Slow-o in bottle.  After several hours,  the black raspberry fruit came into its own complemented nicely by earth, sous bois and spice. Good underlying minerality for a New World pinot...

1982 Ducru Beaucaillou and 1998 Silvio Grasso Bricco Luciani

Traveled to the 16th annual EuroAutoFestival which is held on the beautiful Zentrum grounds of BMW's North American Manufacturing Plant in Greer South Carolina, near the picturesque Blue Ridge Mountains.  Always a great event and an opportunity to enjoy fine dining in the charming downtown area of Greenville SC.  The venerable Poinsett Hotel, with original architecture dating back to 1928, is a welcoming venue for a quick weekend getaway.

The 1982 Ducru Beaucaillou (St. Julien) was decanted before dinner and as we began to taste it, it became clear that we were not going to be able to resist it charms.  An executive decision was made to give it a bit of air and then enjoy it while ensconced in a cozy private sitting area of the luxurious, grand old lobby of the Poinsett.   I am glad that we did because this bottle was showing beautifully since the last one we had a couple of years ago.  Brought back memories of my first acquaintance with great Bordeaux many years ago.  An intoxicating mix of black cherry, tobacco, cedar, earth, mineral and sweet fine-grained tannins (alc 12% ?).  More powerful at this juncture (yet with beautiful balance) than the 1982 La Mission Haut-Brion which we enjoyed last year.  (The 82 La Mission is all about delicately structured fruit, scorched earth and hints of anise.)  The aromatics of the '82 Ducru exhibit wonderful florals with sous bois notes.  This is a beautifully contemplative wine with a lovely complexity on the finish that unveils layer upon layer of character.  It's at a really good place right now.  

The 1998 Silvio Grasso Bricco Lucciani (La Morra) was decanted and enjoyed with dinner a bit later.  Tannins have mellowed and provide an elegant framework for the tasty fruit.  After a couple of hours, it really opened up and the perfume on the nose was gorgeous. Very well balanced (14% alc), this bottling still has another five years of peak drinking ahead of it (at minimum).  A very nice example of how friendly and approachable La Morra wines are.

Along with the wine photos, have included a couple of interesting pics of an older Jaguar sedan outfitted for the good life, and a beautiful modern-day classic, the McLaren, from the EuroAutoFest.

1995 Rancia, 1999 Kalin, 2001 Forman, 2004 Relagnes

Wines paired with dinner ....  bone-in veal chops grilled over cherry-wood coals, mushrooms oreganato, broccoli rabe, heirloom tomato and bufala mozzarella drizzled with 10 year old balsamic. 

1995 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia

A beautifully balanced wine on the far side of its optimal drinking window. I don't think there's upside to hanging onto this for more years. 
Slow-o in bottle for 90 minutes before dinner and then decanted.  Drank over the course of the next six hours.  Began to show really well about hours 3 and 4.  Opened up and gained presence, with the noble Rancia terroir expressing a delicious earthiness that complemented aged cherries with smoky cedar accents. Very smooth integrated tannin and harmonious 13.5 alc.  My favorite of the evening tied with the Forman Cabernet. 

1999 Kalin Cellars Sonoma Pinot Noir Cuvee DD

Terry Leighton's Sonoma Pinots are about as close to traditional Burgundy style that you will find in California.  Popped and poured. Gorgeous old world Burgundian earthy aromas assault your nose.... sublime! Floral and fruit nose... you can smell the sharply delineated fruit. Traditional tart cherry with game notes. Keep in mind that this 1999 bottling is their current (yes, current!) release ...Continued to open up over the course of the next 6 hours. Very balanced and refreshing 13% alc.


2001 Forman Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa)

A last minute addition to the line-up.  Actually opened after dinner with cheese course.  Decanted to let breathe and consumed over the course of the next 3.5 hours. 
In many respects,  this was WOTN. What can I say, Ric Forman's Cabs always deliver a wonderful experience.  Always supremely balanced. Made in a traditional style. I believe Ric Forman made the Sterling Cabs of 1974 vintage that were gorgeous.  
It's clear from the start that this bottle is at a beautiful stage of its life.  If you enjoy old school olive, black currant,  tobacco , cedar and a hint of scorched earth, then this wine is for you. If you are fortunate enough to find any Forman Cabs in magnum format, then buy them. This bottle was a 750 but I have had magnums of the 1999 that were stellar. By the end of the evening after several hours in the decanter,  this beauty was off the charts alluring. Well balanced with oh so polished tannins and 13.8% alc.
Finishing off the last bit of this wine the next day,  I would say that the 2001 has another 5 to 7 years ahead within optimal drinking window where the fruit shines at its best.

2004 Domaine des Relagnes Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vigneronne

Balanced 14% alc. Wow! Basically sex in a bottle. Amazing when you hit a CdP at its peak.
Tar, tobacco ... tannins have melted away to reveal sweet, pure, mature raspberry and plum fruit.   Not a huge amount of complexity  .. just hedonistic with really nice typicity. 
After a couple of hours it settled down with attractive violet nose and garrigue notes on the palate.  Drink now. Love the modest alcohol level. A balanced compromise between traditional and modern styles. 
While I enjoy Rhone blends from California,  they just can't top the real thing from CdP. Lots of sediment at the end of bottle, supporting the depth of fruit in this delightful bottling.

Giovanni Manzone Barolo Le Gramolere Riserva de Grazia Cuvee 1990

The 1990 vintage in Piemonte rarely fails to deliver.  This is a superb bottling. Perfume, finesse and gorgeous fruit sum it up from start to finish. 140 case production from old vines. 14% alc.  Double decanted into clean bottle with slow-o for 4 hours prior to dinner.  Quite a bit of sediment. 

Really started to take off around an hour into dinner, gaining presence for the next two hours.  Intoxicating perfumed nose, sweet fruit and anise wrapped around a beautiful core of minerality with classic delicate tar and roses profile. Lovely expression of Monforte terroir.  Excellent complexity and finish on the palate ... just roll it around and get a glimpse of that elusive greatness we are always seeking in our wines.

I have to mention the cuisine at Blue Restaurant that Gene Briggs, Aaron Shaub and staff execute to perfection for dinner:
- Pan seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras over butter toasted brioche with rhubarb marmalade and toasted pistachios
- Seared scallops over succotash of fava beans, asparagus, cherry tomatoes, onion and a corn cream topped with pistachio pesto 
- Grilled lamb rack and crisp Lamb belly with potato-leek puree, grilled asparagus and salsa verde
- Cheese plate: buttery Mt. Tam from Cowgirl Creamery (North Carolina), Humboldt Fog goat cheese (California), Gorgonzola Dolce (Italy), fig preserve, local honeycomb, candied-cinnamon toasted walnuts, Spanish olives
- Double espresso w. perfect crema

Pio Cesare Barolo 1974

Spent a few days this past week in Memphis and managed to hit some incredible BBQ joints.  Got me fired up to grill up my special pork tenderloin recipe when I returned home!

Paired with the '74 Pio Cesare,  it was a glorious repast.  Slow-o'd for 3 hours prior to dinner.  This was a beauty. It never ceases to amaze me how even older Barolo gains presence over the course of five, six and seven hours. The fruit just explodes about 3 hours in ... amber Rainier cherry with hints of anise  (13.5% alc).  Nose is reticent,  yet opens up a bit over time to reveal muted violet and rose ....seven hours later it is still going strong. 

Don't get me wrong, this is still a wine whose fruit on the very far end of its life, however the complexity and long finish are delightful from a wine that is 40 years of age. The wine had a great story to tell of this hallmark vintage in Piemonte. 

Convergence

An observation about red wines as they age: often there is a convergence in character...   This was evident at a dinner that showcased older pinot noir alongside older sangiovese.  Whites were paired with first course of cheese and serrano ham.  Reds were paired with grilled yellow fin tuna.

1996 Domaine Emile Jobard Meursault-Poruzots

Rich, golden color, 13% alc. ... on the far side of drinkability at this stage. Still decent aromatics with tropical notes. Very mellow and enjoyable. Gained presence over the course of an hour.

2012 Forman Chardonnay

Pale crystalline straw color.  Attractive floral nose with very tasty fruit.... really underscoring that the Meursault is a quite tired.  Just a kiss of oak that it could've done without in the interest of purity.  Very good California chardonnay and nicely balanced at 13.5% alc.

1986 Badia a Coltibuono Sangioveto

Produced only in better vintages, I have always liked this wine.  This '86 was showing decently.  Nice floral nose upon opening, however the aromatics faded over the course of the evening.  Fortunately, the palate held up and even gained a bit of strength through the evening. Red fruit with mellow spices and decent finish with 13.5 alc. The fruit on these wines in their prime is gorgeous.  This one was clearly past its prime, yet very nicely complemented the grilled tuna.

1999 Martinelli Blue Slide Ridge Pinot Noir

WOTN for me.  This one lived up to its hype.  I had a 2007 Martinelli Blue Slide Ridge a couple of years ago and it was way too young to drink.  I have also enjoyed a 2000 Marcassin Blue Slide Ridge, which would have easily been taken for a Vosne-Romanee grand cru in a blind tasting. This 1999 Martinelli version echoes the Marcassin's elegance but falls short of the grandeur. 

Blue Slide Ridge Vineyard was planted by Lee Martinelli in 1995 to Helen Turley's specifications, who made her Marcassin wines using Martinelli's facilities up until 2011when she completed building her own winery.  Turley's influence as consulting winemaker at Martinelli has been evident over the years. Martinelli pinot noirs are some of my favorites (and are far more available/affordable than Marcassin). 

There's no reason to further cellar the '99 Martinelli BSR ... it is drinking extremely well now (perhaps a tad past its peak). Red raspberry fruit is still bright complemented by a mouth-watering melange of acidity, minerality and spices.  Manages its 14.7 alcohol nicely. A fair amount of very fine grained sediment.  Definitely the most alluring aromatics of any of the wines this evening.

1999 Siduri Shaw Vineyard (Oregon) Pinot Noir

Adam Lee is known for his negociant style of winemaking, drawing on some of the great terroirs in California.  My first experience with one of his wines sourced from Oregon fruit, this version from the Shaw Vineyard was a bit past its prime. Faded, yet enjoyable, black fruit (14.2 alc.) with a bit of tasty sous bois that is evident in many Oregon pinot noirs.  Very faint aromatics.  A good deal of sediment (bottled as unfiltered).

2010 Kosta Browne Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

This was a late addition to the line-up, popped & poured.  Classic satin mouthfeel that characterizes Kosta Browne wines. Dark cherry, balsam and spice. Clearly young, it will benefit from additional bottle age. 

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1987, Rockland Petite Sirah 1994, Melville Estate Pinot Noir 2004

Have been wanting to try an older Dunn Cab since the historic vertical tasting in NYC earlier this year that spanned vintages of the Howell Mountain bottling from 1979 to 1999. 

This 1987 vintage bottling was really nice. The fruit is 85% Howell Mountain and 15% Napa valley floor.  Opened about 2 hours before dinner and fully decanted.  This wine had the most significant olive influence on the nose and on the palate as any California Cab I've had.  Quite strong at first and then gained balance with air over the next couple of hours ... settling into a wonderfully mellow-aged black currant palate complemented by olive and earth influences along with tasty minerality (almost blood iron in nature)... decent complexity from start to finish with each sip... compelling aromatics. Fine grained tannins and still robust color with slight bricking. Modest 13 % alcohol,  which I really enjoy.. contributes to the overall elegance of the wine. It was very enjoyable over the next 5 hours before we had the last of it.  Talk about a perfect match with steak....I rarely get a chance to enjoy a California Cab from the '80's... this is certainly a noble one.

Also paired with the steak was a 1994 Rockland Petite Sirah that was showing well.  This wine is sourced from Mark Aubert's family vineyards.  This example had aged nicely. Briary, dark fruit with a mellowed peppery twang ... the aromatics were somewhat reticent. Interestingly, alcohol % was not shown on the label.  I would guess it to be in the 14% range .. pretty well balanced.

As a prelude to dinner, we had a 2004 Melville Estate Pinot Noir that was really showing well. Excellent purity of fruit... it was paired with prosciutto, cheese and fresh cherries. 14.9% alc but it managed it well.  This is a blend.  Sometimes I enjoy the pinot blends from different vineyards more than the single vineyard wines (I find this to be the case often with Kosta Browne wines).

Big Basin Vineyards Pinot Noir Alfaro Family Vineyard 2009 and Chateau Pesquie Cotes du Ventoux Cuvee des Terrasses 2007

Grabbed a bottle of the '09 Big Basin Alfaro along with an '07 Pesquie Terrasses to take to dinner recently.  Popped and poured at the restaurant. 

This was my first experience with the Big Basin Santa Cruz Pinot from winemaker Bradley Brown.  The 2009 Alfaro was a beauty right from the start... really an uneven playing field for the Terrasses to play on... The Alfaro is made with some whole clusters (not sure what he is using regarding specific clonal selections).  I am increasingly drawn to pinot from the Santa Cruz Mtn appellation.  This bottling shows excellent purity of fruit, overall balance and a gorgeous nose.  It is eminently drinkable now but easily has another 8 to 10 years prime time enjoyment.  It's really nice to find a new (for me) California pinot that is so appealing.

It's been a while since I have had a Pesquie Terrasses ... despite being a higher-end bottling (Grenache and Syrah blend) from Cotes de Ventoux, it just seemed a bit coarse and perhaps one-dimensional compared to the recent slate of great CdP we have enjoyed.

Friuli and Burgundy

Had the opportunity to try these three wines side by side recently.  It was an illuminating experience...

1996 Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets ... very pleasant showing, still retaining a bit of stony minerality complemented by brightly aged fruit.  I always enjoy the lack of oak in older white Burgundy.

2005 Vodopivec Vitovska ... an enjoyable orange wine with that intangible essence that can beguile ... this bottling seems a bit tired compared to the brilliant Borgo del Tiglio.

2010 Borgo del Tiglio Tocai Ronco della Chiesa ... my first foray with this beauty, thanks to the recommendation of Mark Scudiery.  Wow, this is a stunning wine made from old vine Tocai Friulano...  Refined citrus fruit with hints of sweetness ... amazingly elegant minerality and striking balance .. compelling aromatics.... a new favorite white wine.  Definitely on par with grand cru white Burgundy.

... Sometimes you just need a Beer (Part Two)

Stone IPA has been a favorite since I discovered it during a visit to San Diego (Stone's home base) several years ago.  The Ruination is a more robust version of their standard IPA, yet is very well balanced ... not too dry or bitter, with gorgeous golden-orange color and nutty aroma. Not quite as extreme in hoppiness as the Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA.  The Ruination is a winner (pictured with fried pickles)... 

Tuscany and Piedmont - an interesting comparison...

Had the pleasure of serving a 1990 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva (13% alc) and a 1998 Marcarini Brunate (14% alc) at dinner recently. Both wines paired well with steaks on the grill.

The Badia was slow-o'd in bottle for a couple of hours.  The Marcarini was fully decanted for a couple of hours.  I have sung the praises of the 1990 Badia vintage before and this bottle showed extremely well..

http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2013/11/sangiovese-at-its-best.html

The Marcarini was a bit reticent from the start.  Elegant, yet lighter presence than the Badia. It never seemed to gain strength (as one would expect) over the course of the evening, which was surprising given the Brunate heritage. Actually,  this example did not have the depth and allure that has been the hallmark of Brunate I have had in the past.

By the end of the evening,  the Badia had continued to blossom and was totally rocking.   It was hands-down the consensus favorite.   The aromas of leather and earth coupled with blue-black glorious aged fruit from the hallowed 1990 vintage put huge smiles on everyone's faces!

Southern Rhone Retrospective 2001 - 2007

We had the pleasure of hosting two of our favorite nephews who were visiting us from NYC and Omaha last week. One evening we decided to get into some Southern Rhones with dinner, which provided an interesting opportunity to compare & contrast styles and vintages.

The 2001 Lesec Marquis Tonneaux is a perennial favorite of mine. A nice wine at a very reasonable price.   The '01 is classic CdP with relatively modest 14% alcohol.  It is still in a good place for drinking but there is probably not a lot to be gained from further cellaring.  Well-rounded fruit, sous bois and light creosote.  About 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvedre which gives it a kiss of sweetness that I especially enjoy in well aged southern Rhones. The tannins have really mellowed over the years and provide a nice easy going structure at this juncture. 

The 2003 Sabon Prestige benefits from longer aeration to open up.  Exhibiting a delightful CdP flavor profile, the most alluring aspect is the tasty tar component that serves as a foil for the fruit. This wine could benefit from a couple of additional years of bottle age.  14.5% alcohol ... mostly Grenache with some Syrah and Mourvedre. 

The 2004 Janasse Chaupin (from magnum) is amazing.  I have been following the development of this wine in magnum for while now.  This is my last of six magnums and I am really sorry to see it go.  The wine is in a great place now, and will stay in a peak window of drinkability for at least another 5 to 8 years. The most attractive aspect of this bottling is the concentrated yet balanced fruit. Kirsch-like intensity with an elegance and purity of fruit that belies its 15% level of alcohol. Made from 100% old vines Grenache. I am definitely going to have to find some 750ml bottles of this stuff...

The 2007 Raspail-Ay Gigondas is certainly the most modern styled of this group of wines and thus quite a departure.  On its own it is quite tasty,  but typifies the lament that has been expressed by many on the move away from tradition that seems apparent with many Southern Rhones as of 2007.    Mainly Grenache with small amounts of Syrah and Mourvedre... 15% alc .... tasty raspberry and garrigue with robust floral aromatics. Average age is wines is around 40 years.