NV Bérêche et Fils Rive Gauche Extra Brut (2014)

An interesting counterpoint to the beautiful Bérêche  Le Cran (2010) that we enjoyed last weekend, and a first foray for me with a 100% Pinot Meunier Champagne. 

This edition of Rive Gauche  is still young at this juncture. Several more years of cellaring should bring out more nuance. 

Right now, it exhibits a bold attack with ripe, intense fruit. Yet there is a somewhat monolithic earthiness (typical to Pinot Meunier, I believe) that holds the wine back from invoking the emotional response that some of the other Bérêche cuvee's, like Rilly-La-Montagne and Le Cran, are able to. 

Producer notes:

"From Mareuil-le-Port in Vallée de la Marne where the source vines were planted in 1969 on pure clay (no chalk) on a north-facing, late-ripening slope. Fermented with natural yeasts in barrels and aged for eight months on the lees before the tirage. (No malolactic). The vin clair is kept for three years under natural cork.
Disgorged as Extra Brut in October 2017, this release of Rive Gauche is based entirely on the 2014 vintage (but is not a vintaged Champagne). Dosage is 3 g/l."

NV Bérêche et Fils Le Cran Extra Brut (2010)

Disgorged November 2017
3 g/l dosage
50% Chardonnay 50% Pinot Noir 

OMG, what a wine! 👍🍾
For me, I give Le Cran the edge over Dom Perignon and Cristal in terms of character, intensity and sheer thrill...

Riveting slightly oxidative nose of honeycrisp apples, flowers and hints of yeast. Very fine, playful mousse.

Taut, thrilling palate of tart red berry, iodine and chalk with a wonderfully complex, dry saline finish.

Paired with:

- Risotto al Salto (rice cake with Asiago-Parmesan fondue with bits of crispy Prosciutto)

- Whole roasted Branzino with a delicious Mediterranean version of Pommes Anna with cherry tomatoes and capers.

Autolysis reference 
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autolysis_(wine)

Producer notes:

"Since joining their father Jean-Pierre in 2004 and 2008 respectively, Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche have risen to the head of the class of Champagne’s corp of elite grower producers.



Integral to the Bérèche style is the systematic suppression of malolactic fermentation, a method that allows the Le Cran cuvee to showcase the complexity of its 40 year-old, Premier Cru fruit while retaining the nervy acidity of Ludes (Montagne de Reims).

The “Cran” vineyard was planted to Chardonnay on west–facing hills in 1969, and the “St. Jean” vineyard was planted to Pinot Noir on east-facing hills in 1973. Together these two vineyards, in dense, chalky soil provide the structure for a long-lived, powerful yet elegant Champagne from the two varieties.

The wine is fermented and aged in neutral barrels before the vin clair is assembled. Then the wine receives its second fermentation in bottle under cork–a hugely labor-intensive practice, which produces discreet, elegant bubbles. 



Wines are bottled around May, without filtration and with a natural cold-settling, achieved by opening all of the cellar’s windows and waiting for three days.

A small dosage, usually 3–6 g/l, depending on the vintage is added after the manual disgorgement. Unlike many growers who are embracing the idea of concentrated must for the dosage, Bérèche adamantly prefers a traditional liqueur.

The original Bérêche estate is centered around 2.5 hectares of vines established by Leon and Albert Bérêche in 1847. Successive generations expanded the property, and today there are a total of 9.5 ha in and around the communes of Craon de Ludes, Ormes, Trépail, and Mailly, all in the Montagne de Reims, as well as the area around Mareuil-le-Port on the left bank of the Marne. The 0.15 ha Mailly parcel, acquired in 2012, is their first Grand Cru vineyard. "

(Le Cran T-Shirt photo courtesy Donald Pennet, taken at Bérêche cellars)

NV Agrapart Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs Grand Cru

Sourced from Grand Cru parcels in Avize, Oger, Cramant and Oiry. I didn't record the disgorgement date from the label, but it was likely 2018 or 2019. Dosage is usually in the 5g/l range, but I could swear it was lower. There is a beautiful balance to this wine.

A "wow" impression right off the bat... Entrancing florals with hints of fresh biscuit on the nose. Gives way to a palate of citrus with a very tasty vein of salinity... there is a riveting tension to the framework that makes it hard to put the glass down. Opening up over the course of the evening, I thought I was drinking a nice Chablis.

Grand Cru quality at a ridiculously reasonable price...

2005 Bouchard Pommard Rugiens

Pop and pour... opened up beautifully over the course of the evening. 

Shy nose at first and then blossoming with classic sous bois influenced florals. Palate of tart cherry, earth and spice supported by dusty, perfectly aged tannins. One of the finest examples of Pommard that I've had from this Producer. 

Drinking at peak now. Nicely reflective of terroir characterized by hard white marl over iron-rich red clay.

2016 Köfererhof Müller Thurgau Valle Isarco

The star of the show here is the dish of scrambled eggs covered with Alba truffles. The wine was pop and pour, and quite boring. Sorely lacking in acidity...no real framework.  A nice champagne would fare better.... tomorrow....

2018 Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett AP 12

Beautifully approachable even now, but has the stuffing to develop further complexity. 

Pop and pour. Gotta love the traditional method of winemaking reflected by 9.0% abv. Made from the fruit of 50 year old vines.

Grapefruit up front followed by lime zest and hints of smoke on the finish. Gently envelopes your palate with gossamer, mouthwatering acidity. The deft mouthfeel is part of the signature elegance of Falkenstein wines. 

A nice counterpoint to the in-your-face youthfulness and bracing acidity of the 2018 Keller von der Fels. Two very different styles of winemaking, IMO. 

Paired nicely with shrimp tacos with a bit of spicy remoulade. 

A wine that keeps you coming back for more.... a wine with soul!

2018 Keller Riesling von der Fels

Massively tart grapefruit and bracing acidity upon opening the bottle. Impressive mid-palate presence and energy, with a mouthwatering finish for such a young wine. Beautifully dry.

Calms down a bit after a few hours, with velvety fruit texture peeking out from the initial attack of acidity. At 12.5% abv, not a shy Riesling, perhaps indicating later approach to harvest. A very rich, more forward style compared to Falkenstein dry or off-dry Riesling, IMO.

This could be benefit greatly from cellar time. Fruit is sourced from Grosses Gewächs (grand cru) sites of Kirchspiel, Hubacker and Abtserde.

Quite an experience. Clearly, a wine built for the long haul.

Paired interestingly with spicy fried chicken and chile lime corn.

2018 Girolamo Russo Etna Bianca Nerina

70% Carricante with the balance comprised of Catarratto, Minnella, Inzolia, Grecanico and Coda di Volpe.

Palate of Granny Smith apple with hints of lime zest. Beautiful salinity contributes to an alluring framework, with just enough acidity to keep things interesting.... nice reflection of volcanic terroir.... nose of Mediterranean seabreeze swirling around the Mt. Etna region...😊

2016 St. Michael-Eppan Sauvignon Blanc Sanct Valentin

This wine brought back fond memories of lunches on Lake Garda in Sirmione.

100% Sauvignon Blanc. Takes a while to open up. Palate of kiwi and sage. Faint floral and grassy notes on the nose. 

Perhaps in an awkward phase ..... an unsettling amount of heat intrudes on the finish, which limits food friendliness and overall enjoyment of the wine. It doesn't appear to carry the 14.5% stated abv very well at this juncture. 

2007 Dom Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs

Founded by Nicolas Ruinart in the city of Reims, Maison Ruinart is the oldest established Champagne house, exclusively producing champagne since 1729. 


Poster by Alphonse Mucha (1896)

The blanc de blancs cuvee from Dom Ruinart was first released in 1959. This 2007 bottling is the first vintage made entirely by Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaïotis.

The blend is 100% Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards: 75% from the Côte de Blancs (Chouilly, Le Mesnil, Oger and Avize) and 25% from the northern slopes of the Montage de Reims (mostly Sillery and Verzenay).



Crystalline cut of minerality defines an elegant palate of lemon and oyster shell. Pleasing nose of light honeysuckle with hints of ginger evolve with exposure to air. Bracing effervescence provides a classic textural mouthfeel and gently subsides over the course of a three hour dinner. As the wine warmed up and opened up, it took on the character of a beautiful chablis with savory saline notes. Paired very nicely with Chilean sea bass dish.

Just on the cusp of its drinking window now, with many years of life ahead. Looking forward to the unveiling of intriguing tertiary development over the next decade. Definitely worth popping a bottle now to check out this beauty. Nicely done.

2012 Laherte Frères Extra Brut Les Empreintes

Disgorged: January 2018
Dosage 4g/l

---------------------------------
Cuvee notes: 

50% Chardonnay (1/3 of Chardonnay muscaté) from vines in Les Chemins d’Epernay, which were planted in 1957. 

50% Pinot Noir from vines in Les Rouges Maisons, which were planted in 1983.

Les Chemins d'Epernay has clay soils with chalky subsoil. Les Rouges Maisons has deep clay topsoil with flint and schist components, underlain by chalk subsoil.

Vineyards are farmed organically and are plowed by horse.

Fermentation in 10 year aged Burgundy barrels, sans malolactic.

6 months of barrel aging with regular stirring of the lees. Disgorged by hand.
-------------------------------------

First time trying this Producer. Took a while for this to open up. Could use a handful of years of additional cellaring, but still showing very well now with dazzling tension. Quite dry on the palate, with crisp cut of the old vines Chardonnay component highlighting the bracing "blanc" character of this wine. Fine bead. Lengthy finish exhibiting an increasing complexity as the evening progressed. Very popular at the table.  We could've used another bottle or two of this !

Paired well with P.E.I. mussels in broth of shallot, garlic, lemon, tomato, white wine, and butter, followed by roasted poussin with sauteed spinach and fingerling potatoes. 

Comment from Antonio Galloni:
"Aurélien Laherte is young, passionate and humble. It is only a matter of time before he is recognized as one of Champagne's elite vignerons. "

Campania and Barbaresco

Enjoyed these three wines with dinner on Saturday evening. 

Favorite was the 2008 Mastroberardino Naturalis Historia.  2nd favorite was the 2007 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva. 3rd favorite was the Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva. 

Damn, I love great Aglianico!

Paired with a beautiful sausage fra diavola pasta dish. 

2008 Louis Roederer Cristal

12% abv

From Stephen Reinhardt:
"....60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from 36 plots in seven grands crus: Verzy, Verzenay, Beaumont and Aÿ for the Pinot Noir and Mesnil, Avize and Cramant for the Chardonnay. Twenty-five percent of the wine was fermented in oak, and 16% underwent malolactic fermentation to moderate the fresh acidity of the 2008 vintage. The assemblage was bottled in May 2009. After 8.5 years on the second lees (longer than any Cristal before), the first release was disgorged in September 2017 with a relatively low dosage of 7.5 grams per liter...."

Characterized by taut crystalline energy, harnessed more elegantly than any champagne I've ever had. There doesn't seem to be a note out of place with this first movement in its symphony of development.

Brilliant cut of chalky minerality balances the purest quality fruit. Lilting brioche, almond and flowers on the nose. Super-fine bead. A thrilling wine that is built to age beautifully, and is deserving of the fanfare surrounding its release.

While the 2008 Dom Pérignon we tried recently was a bit more approachable, the 2008 Cristal is definitely worth checking out now.

Paired nicely with sauteed scallops.

2005 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano

As happens so often with great young wines, the last glass in the wee hours is the most memorable 🍷😊

Decanted and aerated for five hours prior to dinner. Minimal sediment. 

Utterly classic perfumed nose. Clearly, a wine of great elegance and balance from the start. Got better and better throughout the evening.

Delicious dusty fine-grained tannins caress the palate, and bode extremely well for further aging and tertiary development. 

A structured sweetness to the black cherry fruit complements the tar, balsam and anise accents. The  magical combination of elements that can make the truly great wines of Barbaresco so gracefully compelling.

Paired beautifully with grilled lamb chops, garlic-proscuitto mashed potatoes, and broccoli rabe.

NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve

(40% pinot meunier, 30% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay)
No disgorgement date shown.
Very satisfying, widely available, entry level Champage.
Paired nicely with sauteed crab cakes on day 1.
Paired even better with grilled tuna steaks on day 2. 
Day 2 is actually where this wine really shined (sealed with Rabbit Champagne sealer overnight, which works great)
Letting the wine warm in the glass on day 2 revealed a wonderful chalky character with beautiful vinous palate. The Pinot Meunier provides interesting complexity. 

Great Brewskies and Jazz

https://youtu.be/ojpRvh-nqY8

Two different brewsky styles, one elegant and refreshing while the other is robust and forward. 

Both go very well with Charles Lloyd and the Marvels, featuring Lucinda Williams... one of my favorite ensembles of late .... perfect laid back Sunday evening on the porch atmosphere 🍻👍😊🎶

This opening cut on the album has a beautiful pedal steel woven into a great jazz piece... brilliant 

2014 RAEN Pinot Noir Royal St. Robert Cuvée (Sonoma Coast)

13.3% abv 

Produced by Carlo and Dante Mondavi (sons of Tim Mondavi). The RSR cuvée is named in honor of their grandfather, Robert Mondavi.

Palate of purple berry and cardamom balanced with a savory streak of minerality. Masculine fruit structure framed with fine-grained tannins. Gorgeous nose of violets and sous bois. This is a really nice pinot noir.

Paired beautifully with whole roasted Branzino and to-die-for Pommes Anna.

In 5 years or so it should be at peak with more evolved tertiary development.

In a blind tasting, I would have guessed this to be a Morey Saint-Denis premier cru, possibly Les Ruchots...?

RAEN (which stands for ‘Research in Agriculture and Enology Naturally’) was conceived as a validation of the Sonoma Coast as one of California’s most important terroirs for Pinot Noir.

The vineyard source is located near the town of Freestone in the hills overlooking Bodega Bay. 

ELEVATION: 658 feet
SOIL: Lower parcel: well-drained Goldridge Sandy Loam and Steinbeck Fine Sandy Loam. 
Upper parcel: Iron-rich Franciscan sandstone 
EXPOSURE: SouthEast
CLONES: Dijon 667, 828, Calera, PN-VR1

Vinfied using 70% whole cluster with wild-native fermentation. Aged for 10 months in 60 gallon French barrels and one puncheon with no new oak.

2014 was the second vintage produced at RAEN with 18 barrrels of the RSR cuvée.

2014 Deusyls de la Pèira (Languedoc-Roussillon)

14.5% abv
Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier 
An estate wine from the Belle Fiole lieu-dit.

Tropical palate, giving way to pear and honey on the finish. Showed its alcohol with a bit too much heat on the finish, then settled down with air. More enjoyable after warming up the the glass. 

I've had younger versions of this cuvee that were disjointed. This 2014 version has had time to come together. 

Paired nicely with potato-flour fried shrimp drizzled with guajillo chili sauce.

2008 Dom Pérignon

Cindi and Brett Ferguson hosted a wonderful dinner featuring paella as the main course. It's been many years since I've tried Dom Pérignon, so based on the glowing reports for the 2008 vintage we popped a cork with the paella. 

Dom Pérignon is sourced from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards located in nine villages: 
Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte de Blanc provide Chardonnay
Aÿ, Bouzy, Mailly-Champagne, Verzeney and Hautvillers in Montagne de Reims provide Pinot Noir 

Upon opening, it seemed a bit less dry than I usually enjoy Champagne. With exposure to air, a harmonious and elegant structure revealed itself, seducing with a rich palate of red currant and lemon zest wrapped in a gossamer robe of chalk. Everything seemed to come into balance, offering a thought-provoking level of vinosity complemented by delicately spicey florals on the nose.

I would have liked to have tried this cuvee a year or two prior to release to perhaps get a better glimpse of the early stage tension between the components that gave rise to this beauty.

It will be interesting to taste this in 5 years as a deeper tertiary character unfolds.

The 2008 vintage marks the retirement of Chef de Caves, Richard Geoffroy, concluding an impressive 28 years with Dom Pérignon. Vincent Chaperon assumed the helm in early 2019.

2004 Galardi Terra di Lavoro (Roccamonfina)

This was opened late and decanted to aerate. It followed a beautifully elegant 2006 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva.

Very slow to open up.... started to reveal its character after 90 minutes or so. A larger scaled wine built for the long haul. (Mostly Aglianico with some Piedirosso).

Black fruit in balance with tannins that have mellowed, and a nice underlying minerality. Tar and subtle truffle slowly emerge. It's just not showing much complexity at this stage.

First foray with this wine. I believe the vineyards are situated north of Naples on volcanic terroir, located not too far inland from the coast. This cuvee was first produced in 1994.

Hold for another 5 to 10 years.

Zone and Production:  Vulcano Roccamonfina,  10 ha of Vineyards, West and North-West exposed,  planted with 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso
Altitude and System:   400 - 450 msl  /  all Cordone speronato  /  4.500 Plants/ha
Age of the Plants in 2004:  14 Years 25% / 10 Yeras 25% / 8 Years 50%
Harvest:  from Beginning to the End of October 2004
Vinification:  after crushing, Skin Contact for about 20 Days with the Must with dayly Pumpover, malico in stainless Seel, after for 10-12 Month in Barrique from Allier and Nevers.
Alc.  13° vol
Acidity:  5,10 gr./L 
PH.  3,72
Dry Extract:  33,40 gr./L  
Production:  about  20.000 x 0,75L / 611 x 1,50L / 209 x 3,00L

  

2013 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Schmitt (AP#13)

Enjoyed the 2nd half of this bottle this evening after being stored under vacuvin for a week or so.

The picture is clearer now with delicious apple flavors on the palate complemented by delicate, savory herbal elements and a pleasing botrytis-influenced finish. 

Paired *spectacularly* well with guajillo chile pork tamales. 

2004 Pisoni Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard

Finally coming into its own. This wine was a monolithic beast for the first decade or so of its life. 

Showing admirable balance now. The greatness of the Pisoni vineyard is evident with savory red and blue fruit, sandalwood aroma, and a nice bit of complexity on the finish.

2016 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva

First taste of the 2016 vintage Vorberg.  I usually buy this wine in every vintage. 

Alto Adige at its finest..... the 2016 is creamy in texture, perhaps lacking the classic structure of the 2015 ...

Seems more like the 2014...  

....softer around the edges and quite approachable young... delicious...

....although the 2016 became somewhat reticent about an hour after opening

Will be interested in Ian's perspective. 

Rudi Kofler is a genius in letting the terroir speak clearly through this special varietal..
‐---------‐----------------------------------

Day 2 shows enhanced fullness and depth of character. A relatively big wine for this cuvee, but now we see mineral underpinnings coming to the fore on the finish.

To me, this rendition of Pinot Bianco has shares some characteristics of an excellent chenin blanc (textural mouthfeel and slight hints of sweetness that are offset beautifully by the minerally bitterness on the finish).

The wine's viscosity signals a long life ahead.

Paired wonderfully with goat cheese infused with spices and bits of exotic peppers, and sides of fresh grapes and caramelized pecans. The bittersweet finish on the caramelized pecans was an unexpectedly delicious complement to the Vorberg magic.

Cru

Whites

2014 Rafael Palacios As Sortes

2015 Domaine de la Pepiere Clisson

2015 Kanzler Rose of Pinot Noir

2017 Jacob Toft Diana's Chardonnay

First Flight - Steve Russo

1) 2008 Bryce Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir

2) 2007 Bergstrom Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir

3) 2009 Kanzler Reserve Pinot Noir (tied favorite)

4) 2003 Domaine Louis Remy Latricieres-Chambertin

5) 2004 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir (tied favorite)

6) 2009 Charles Noellat Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru 

Second Flight - Steve Adams

1) 2010 Giuseppe Quintarelli Valpolicella

2) 2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Pora (favorite) 

3) 2013 Cantina Terlano Lagrein Riserva Porphyr (2nd favorite)

4) 2009 Domaine du Pegau CDP

5) 2008 La Peira en Damaisela Matissat

6) 2012 Kind Cellars Syrah Lampyridae

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben (AP #8)

Yes, this wine is technically too young to drink, but the wines from Erich and Johannes Weber are so impeccably balanced that they are hard to resist.

Weightless deliciousness from old vines sums it up nicely. Slow to open up, but gains momentum with stony grapefruit accented by herbal notes and subtle mint. Somewhat tropical nose gradually unfurls. Lithe, elegant sweetness, almost bordering on halbtrocken. A truly fascinating wine.

Am very glad we have some left over for day two....

Day 2 found a dusty, delicious feinherb character more apparent,  with a tangerine component blossoming on the lengthening finish. Savory salinity completes the picture. 

Disclaimer: I'm in the final stages of recovering from a nasty cold, so my tastebuds are still somewhat off...

2011 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero

The future is peeking out with an inner sweetness and lovely nose that bodes well. Red fruit with hints of goudron, tobacco and eucalyptus, all wrapped up in a savory, gracefully balanced and irresistible package. A complex, contemplative Barolo for Burgundy aficionados. Peaking in another 5 to 7 years.

Paired with grilled veal chops, tomato-cucumber salad with 10 year balsamic, and garlic-proscuitto mashed potatoes.