NV Guiborat Prisme 15 Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

One of the more satisfying and complete Blanc de Blancs I've enjoyed recently. Gorgeous nose of florals with hints of biscuit. First taste shows the quality of the fruit and elegant balance of acidity. On the young side now but irresistible. Excellent QPR.

Richard and Karine Fouquet source their grapes from domaine-owned parcels in the Le Mont Aigu lieu-dit (Chouilly) and in Cramant. Parcels are vinified separately in tank.

Paired deliciously with Vongole (clams in a sweet Italian sausage broth) prepared by Chef Luca Annunziata of Forchetta restaurant and inspired by his childhood in Naples, Italy.

Disgorgement Oct 2020
12.6% abv
1.5 g/l dosage

2007 Camus Pere et Fils Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

A producer I have no previous experience with.  This bottle showed extremely well. Drank over the course of several hours. Palate continued to gain strength and show multiple layers of fruit with a really tasty long finish.  Overall, it's more about the attractiveness of the aged fruit, and not so much about acidity. There is a subtle underlying minerality to compliment the cherry, sous bois and spices. Sticking your nose in the glass and inhaling the Burgundian scents was a treat. Paired with tempura shrimp and bone in pork chop. 

2014 Marguet Ambonnay Grand Cru Les Saints Rémys

100% pinot noir
Disgorged Sept 2019
Zero dosage

First time enjoying a wine from Benoît Marguet. It is lovely and impossible to put down once you get started drinking it. Produced from a parcel of old-vine Pinot Noir on the Bouzy side of Ambonnay. Racy acidity frames beautiful grand cru fruit. In an early drinking window with lots of air. I think this will be going even stronger in five years.

Paired with:

Tapas
Jámon + Manchego Croquetas
Grilled Chorizo + Figs in a balsamic reduction

Main
Wood fire grilled whole Branzino with rosemary + acorn squash + crispy potatoes 

Dessert 
Absolutely mind blowing olive oil cake sprinkled with sea salt, warm out of the oven...

2014 Laherte Freres Empreintes Millesime

 The best cuvee I've had from this producer. Opened up nicely over a couple of hours. Wonderful balance with mouthwatering salinity & food friendly acidity. Scrumptious, elegant fruit. ** Definitely worth buying more.** There is a very alluring freshness to this wine. 

Paired well with bacon wrapped shrimp seasoned with paprika. 

Cru tasting, Oct 2021

Tasting with wine group... the bubbly from Alta Langa exceeded expectations...great stuff.

Sparkling
2016 Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Metodo Classico Oudeis Brut
85% Pinot Nero, 15% Chardonnay

Rosé
2017 Dominio del Águila Pícaro del Águila Clarete (Ribera del Duero)
35% Tempranillo, 35% Albillo Mayor and the rest a mixture of many different varieties (Garnacha, Bobal, Bruñal, Monastrell, Tempranillo Gris, other Albillos, Garnacha Blanca, Pirules, Jaén, Moscatel, Malvasías...)
 
----------------------------------------

Reds

2010 Calabretta Nerello Mascalese Vigne Vecchie (Mt. Etna, Sicily)

100% old vine Nerello Mascalese

2017 Ariana Occhipinti SP68 (Fossa di Lupo,
southern Sicily)
70% Frappato  30% Nero d'Avola

Tied for favorite

2008 Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino
100% Sangiovese

2nd favorite

2011 Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione
(Greve, Chianti)
100% Sangiovese

2011 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Gramolere
100% Nebbiolo

(Monforte d'Alba)

Tied for favorite

2010 Quintarelli Cá del Merlo (Valpolicella, Veneto)
55% Corvina/Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina, Sangiovese

-----------------------------

Postscript 
A week or so later, finished up a couple of ounces each of leftovers from:

2011 Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione 
wow! This wine has a beautiful future ahead. Indications of delicious tertiary development. An irresistible element of allspice (even leaning toward light cinnamon) underlies extended red and blue fruit finish. This is one of my favorite wines from Chianti region.

2011 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Gramolere 
...hint of initial heat has subsided with gorgeously elegant black fruit taking front and center. Bonus is the wonderfully balanced inner sweetness on the palate. A Barolo for Burgundy lovers. 

2007 Cantine Lonardo Taurasi Riserva Coste

 Needs a couple of hours to open up. Still quite early in its evolution.  There's at least another 10 or 15 years on the horizon for this one.

The quality of the Aglianico fruit reminds me of Guastaferro. The vines may not generate the same depth of fruit as Guastaferro's 150 year old vines, but the quality is there. Lots of super fine-grained sediment supports the delicious black fruit. Coffee/mocha accents with hints of Taurasian garrigue on a lengthy, complex finish.
Paired deliciously with scratch made bucatini, sausage, sweet peas, mushrooms and broccoli in a light cream sauce.

Old vines on Lonardo estate...

 

2004 Renato Corino Barolo Arborina

 

2nd of two bottles acquired from a reliable source. Have always been a fan of Arborina cru. ...typifies lovely Barolo from the La Morra area.
This 2nd bottle showed the best of the two. Spot on from the get-go. Decanted and enjoyed gorgeous perfume as the wine opened up.  Beautiful red fruit with most delicious dusty tannins adding a sweetness to the classic finish that goes on and on. Showcases the elegance of the sought after vintage. 

 

2005 Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granits (magnum)

 The last and best of three magnums we've enjoyed over the past ten years. Best enjoyed from a decanter to allow it to open up. Filigreed tannins provide the framework for scrumptious black fruit.  Dusty minerality with hints of olive. Alluring lilac accents on nose of fruit compote. A testament to the greatness of the vintage. Couldn't ask for a better showing.

 

A few recent wines...

 

2010 Clos du Mont-Olivet La Cuvee du Papet... delicious and in the zone... as close in style as Ive found to Pegau Reservee...

2007 Paolo Conterno Ginestra Riserva......
Approachable now with a couple of hours in a decanter. Beautiful fruit and structure.... pliable tannins just starting to show hints of sweetness.. a classical interpretation of Ginestra. Better in 3 to 5 years...

2018 Quintarelli Bianco Secco Cá del Merlo ...
Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Bianco, Chardonnay, Saorin....30 year old vines on limestone and basalt... I LOVE this wine.

Laherte Freres Les 7 Extra Brut

 Delicious stuff...

Producer notes:

"....The Laherte estate was founded in 1889 by Jean-Baptiste Laherte. At this time, most of the five hectares of vines were situated in the village of Chavost. Today, the 10-hectare vineyard is run by the two Laherte brothers Christian and Thierry, as well as Thierry’s son, Aurélien. Les 7 – A single parcel planted on the slopes of Chavot in 2003 by Aurelien’s father Thierry Laherte as a nod to ancient traditions. Worked with a horse. Blend of the seven indigenous grape varieties of the region including 18% Chardonnay, 18% Meunier, 17% Pinot blanc, 15% Petit Meslier, 14% Pinot Noir, 10% Fromonteau (Pinot gris), and 8% Arbane. Six months of aging with regular lees stirring, no malo, blend of 60% of current vintage and 40% of a solera combining each vintage since the start in 2005. Dosage is 4 gr/l...."

2015 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva

 In a beautiful spot with aeration and years of evolution ahead.  Elegant fruit up front gives way to signature spiciness and backbone of minerality that is, IMO, unique to the Vorberg cuvee.  I've not had other Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige that have this level of refinement. Paired nicely with chicken dijon followed by Tallegio cheese.

The oldest vintage of Vorberg I've had is 2014. Would love to try older vintages. 

2015 Momtazi and 2015 Maresh

 Two great Oregon producers and two different Oregon vineyards.

Kelly Fox's Momtazi comes thru with classic briar and rhubarb influence on a palate of red fruit supported with mouth watering acidity. Gossamer tannins in the background. Trademark elegance that reminds me of a young Dugat-Py.

The Arterberry-Maresh Maresh cru bottling has mellowed nicely and is in a great early drinking window. Tannic edges have been smoothed off, and the superb pedigree of Maresh vineyard fruit is on full display. Lovely stuff. 

Paired with baked salmon, broccoli salad and roasted corn.  I am partial to the Kelley Fox wines, but the grandness of the Maresh vineyard gives the Arterberry-Maresh wine the blue ribbon on this outing.

2006 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva

 

Killer showing for this bottle from the epic 2006 Riserva vintage. Hitting on all cylinders from the get-go. Gorgeous wave of floral perfume and Herbsaint nuance upon popping the cork.

Gained serious presence over the course of several hours. What I call Campanian "garrigue" is found in spades here... a combination of sottobosco, herbs and tobacco accent unique to the Riserva cuvee.

Tannins are seamlessly resolved. Not an overpowering wine... very well balanced fruit giving way to a lengthy,  elegant finish. A Taurasi for Burgundy lovers.

https://www.vinous.com/articles/mastroberardino-defining-the-greatness-of-taurasi-1928-2006-dec-2013

2004 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano

 

Very nice showing but still not at peak yet. A joy to drink with such delicious fruit, balanced with supple, fine grained tannins. With its pinot noir like elegance, paired well with Indian spiced Codfish with potatoes and tomatoes. 

2015 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert

 

Subtle florals with hint of bacon fat on the nose.  Young but shows nicely with aeration. Purple fruit up front backed a super enticing minerally, mouthwatering framework of elegant tannins, followed by olive and spice notes on the finish. Damn, this is a nice vintage for the Thalabert cuvee.

Here is a bit of background on this cru...

"...The Thalabert vineyard sits on the rocky plain of Les Chassis on the left bank of the Rhone River, sandwiched between Tain l’Hermitage to the north and Pont de l’Isere to the south. In a large appellation such as Crozes, the quality of terroir is heavily varied, with preferred sites found on the stone-heavy, less clay influenced sections of Les Chassis, close to the riverbed. This area is where many of the appellations top producers grow their vines, including the famed Alain Graillot. In his book ‘The Wines of the Northern Rhone’ Jonathan Livingston Learmonth describes the soil as “a gravel couch (20-30 meters of gravelly stones), with around half a meter of alluvial stones of Alpine origin on the surface.” It is this so-called “French drain” that sets Thalabert apart as the benchmark terroir in the southern Crozes-Hermitage...

• The first ever vineyard owned by Paul Jaboulet – purchased in 1834. Also holds the distinction as the oldest vineyard of the appellation. Considered the benchmark for Crozes-Hermitages with the ability to age for decades.

• 60-80 year old vines

• Biodynamically farmed

• Vines grown on pebbly terraces that are glacial in origin, with the bedrock close to the topsoil. These small, round pebbles store heat during the day and release it at night, providing optimum and regular maturity.

• Very low yields of 25 hl/ha

• Aged in French oak, 20% new

 

2015 Bordatto Etxaldea Basa Juan

 Excellent cider from the tiny French Basque village of Jaxu, in the foothills of the Pyrenees,  inland from Biarritz.  Opened up beautifully over the course of a couple of hours...👍

Two Spanish White Wines

2016 Raventós i Blanc De La Finca Conca del Riu Anoia

50% Xarel-lo, 40% Macabeo, 10% Parellada, each varietal coming from different plots, fermented separately and then blended for aging on the lees. Vineyards are located about 35 miles inland from Barcelona.

Fresh and inviting fruit-dominated nose. Mouthwatering citrus attack followed by succulent mid-palate with saline, spicy finish.  Interesting combination of grapes that I have little experience with. Paired nicely with Jamón+Manchego croquetas and patatas brava.

2008 López de Heredia Viña Gravonia Blanco

Love this classic Rioja Blanco. Viura character on full display with piquant lemon character up front followed by marzipan and ginger on a saline finish.  Paired well with Gambas al Ajillo and Rockfish al la Plancha.

2017 Bodegas Cota 45 UBE Maina La Charanga

 

A unique and interesting effort from winemaker Ramiro Ibáñez. 100% Palomino grapes sourced from a single vineyard in Sanlucar. Albarizas de Barajuelas soils are dominated by chalk and clay.



Shy, nutty nose with hint of petrol. Bone dry palate of almonds and stone fruit. Subtle salinity and a pithy, tonic finish. Reminds me texturally of a young Trocken Riesling, but with less acidity. Showing more on day two, this has aging potential.  Paired nicely with lobster.

2019 Elena Walch Sauvignon Blanc Vigna Castel Ringberg

 My first experience with the Elena Walch wines from Alto Adige.

The Sauvignon Blanc is from from their Castel Ringberg vineyards (calcareous substrate mixed granitic glacial gravels) which are situtated above Caldaro Lake (just south of Bolzano). It is a beautiful wine at a very reasonable price.

A heady, tropically influenced nose greets you, followed by a minerally citrus palate and an elegant finish.This is a Sauvignon Blanc that could only be produced in the foothills of the Dolomite Mountains. Highly recommended.

Elena and her daughters, Karoline and Julia, also produce an excellent Chardonnay and are scheduled to introduce a Blanc de Blancs cuvee in 2022.

https://www.foodandwine.com/wine/woman-winemaker-who-reinvigorated-italys-alto-adige-region-interviewed-her-daughter#:~:text=Her%20two%20daughters%2C%20Karoline%20and,work%20under%20the%20matriarch's%20label.

 

2018 Manuel Moldes Rias Baixas Albariño Afelio

 

Beautiful salinity frames lemon and grapefruit palate. A very enjoyable Galician white paired with spicy tempura fried lobster tails.

In the Val do Salnés region of Rias Baixas, vines are traditionally trained on a wire trellis supported by granite posts called a “parra,” which allow breezes to come through and dry the grapes after the region’s frequent showers. (Similar to the rock supported pergola system in the Carema region of Italy). The sandy, granitic soils provide critical drainage in this region that is subject to heavy storms from the Atlantic Ocean.



Grapes are whole bunch pressed in basket press for thirty minutes, then the grape must is settled and racked off after 24-48 hours. Barrels have no temperature control inside, only the natural temperature in the cold cellar to regulate. (Similar to Lopez de Heredia in Rioja). Fermentation is usually ten days and the wine is racked off its gross lees. Malolactic fermentation is not desired and rarely happens.
Aged in stainless steel for eight months and two months in old French oak barrels. Fined and filtered for bottling.

Jura, Sonoma and Campania!

 A few wines enjoyed over the weekend.

The 2009 Kanzler was absolutely delicious. Took a while to open up. Lots of gas left in the tank on this one. 

I am smitten by the 2018 Domaine du Pélican Savagnin skin contact cuvee. Just stunning complexity, fruit, mouthfeel. Can't get enough of this wine. Jura whites rock 👍

The 2007 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva showed very well. Needs a few more years of cellaring. Not as graceful as the 2006, but tasty.

The Savignin was paired with fried oysters and hushpuppies. 

The reds were paired with grilled sausages, pork spare ribs and beef brisket.

2012 Le Piane Boca

 Mostly Nebbiolo with some Vespolina. 

Classic old school Alto Piemonte. The Vespolina provides a nice lift to the deep black fruit. Insanely alluring melange of creosote, sottobosco and, emerging with air, mint on the mid-palate. Tannins are maturing nicely.

The tannins in the 2012 Le Piane Boca retain a little bite, but they don't clench down with extended aeration in a decanter. 

Alto Piemonte drinkability likely influenced by amount of Vespolina and Croatina in the blend. For example, the 2013 Le Pianelle Bramaterra is in a great zone now, IMO, and it has around 20% combined Vespolina and Croatina...

Have some of 2012 Le Piane  Boca left over for day two notes. Am impressed by the classic cloth this wine is cut from...

2019 Forman Chardonnay

 13.5% abv

Sourced from Star Vineyard in Rutherford. 

No malo. 20% new oak.
Disappointing. I was expecting a nice blast of fruit, but the fruit is marred by oak.
I've had tasty bottles of Forman Chardonnay.  This is not one. 

NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Tradition

Deg July 2020

12.5abv
Mostly pinot noir with some chardonnay.
Very dry, oxidative style that is different than what I normally drink. My favorite Egly-Ouriet cuvee is the VP.   A bit "in your face" after intial pouring. Settled down over time and paired magically with calamari and crab cakes. 

2019 Ciro Picariello Greco di Tufo

 Citrus and spice on the nose. Lemony palate upfront giving way to savory honeydew imbued with saline minerality. Nice structure. Delicious now. Outperformed expectations. Extremely good value at $22.00.

Produced from organically farmed Greco vines (planted circa 1995) in volcanic-influenced soils of clay, limestone and sandstone. Harvest takes place by hand in late October. Low temperature natural fermentation in stainless, before 8 additional months aging in stainless, on the lees. Bottle aging for an additional 3 months before release. No fining, no filtration.

Sourced from vineyards in Tufo and Montefusco - some of the highest and most mineral zones in the Greco di Tufo appellation.