Les Tastevins du Lac is dedicated to camaraderie in pursuit of joie de vino! This blog serves as an informal forum on wine, food and travel.... Cheers! Steve Adams





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Tuesday, May 4, 2021

Sake


Being a sake neophyte, there's a new frontier to explore...

Tippling this tonight.  While the nose is highly aromatic with hints of sweetness, the palate is elegantly dry. Banana is prevalent when served cold, giving way to hints of lychee and umami character on the finish. Very pleasing. Crystal clear in color.

Sunday, May 2, 2021

2011 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello

Checking in at the 10 year mark. Absolutely gorgeous upon opening the bottle. Perfumed nose leaps forth. Delicious fruit from the first taste. Elegant sweetness to the tannins. All components come together to deliver a seamlesss structure. One of the best Ovello's I've had.

Decanted and aerated. About 2 hours in, the tannins begin to clinch down and what was an elegant finish becomes more closed, hiding any nuance from the fruit. Tannic influence dominates the finish as time goes on.
This is a jewel of a wine in its early stages of development. Needs another 3 to 5 years of cellaring (minimum). Will continue to develop and benefit from cellaring for at least another 10 years.
Paired nicely with smoked pork shoulder, smoked beef brisket, collard greens and hush puppies.

Sunday, April 18, 2021

Côte de Beaune, Sonoma Pinot Noir and Barbaresco Santo Stefano

 First time dining inside with friends at their house in over a year (everyone being vaccinated). Chicken Marbella, scratch-made mashed potatoes and baked carrots were worthy of 3 Michelin stars.... hard to describe how savory and delicious this dish was. Dessert was a beautifully piquant key lime pie.


The 2008 Lequin-Colin Corton Grand Cru Les Languettes stole the show with the Chicken Marbella. If there ever was a match made in heaven, it is grand cru red Burgundy and a hearty chicken dish. The tart cherry and acidity of the burgundy coupled with its wonderful sous bois and spices made for an irresistible combination with the scrumptious bird.

The 2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano showed beautifully when first uncorked... elegant sweet tannins, richness without being overbearing.  It gained weight over time with the luscious nature of the fruit coming to the forefront and the tannins becoming ever so slightly more clenched. Still, a well balanced wine. I think 5 more years in the cellar will be kind in terms of developing increased complexity instead of just being lip - smackingly delicious. 

The 2007 Paul Hobbs Lindsey Estate was tasty, but perhaps a bit monolithic. The Cuvee Agustina is produced only in special vintages. Frankly, I just didn't give this wine the attention it deserved because of my focus on the Burgundy and the Barbaresco.

All in all, a resplendent evening of warm camaraderie and hope for the future 👍🍷😊










Sunday, April 11, 2021

1996 and 2000 Fontanafredda Barolo Lazzarito Delizia

Fun comparison of Serralunga terroir in two different vintages from the Lazzarito cru....

The 2000 vintage was represented well with lush fruit and burnished tannins..... a delightful wine.

The 1996 took 5 hours to open up in a decanter and show well. Beautiful classic structure with refined tannins as a foundation for delicious cherry and creosote palate. The tannins deliver a mouthwateringly addictive pucker on the long finish. The 1996 will easily go another 20 years.

Thursday, April 8, 2021

2015 Domaine Marcel Deiss Schoffweg

 14% abv

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Pinot Bianco

Dipping into Alsatian wine always reminds me of my introduction to the wines of Marcel Deiss, enjoying the beautiful 1989 vintage.

This 2015 Schoffweg shows pear and nectarine palate and honeyed ginger finish offset by dry tonic and mineral notes. Lots of complexity even at this young stage bodes well for future development.

Aged in new and used barrique, I think this treatment works very well with this unique field blend.

Schoffweg faces east and abuts the Altenberg grand cru.

Paired nicely with pork schnitzel accompanied by sauteed green beans and sweet potatoes.

Day 2 notes:
Nose has really blossomed with alluring tropical notes. More complexity on the palate with an unending finish. The tonic accent on the finish has receded and made room for additional spice. 

I absolutely love the artistry and magic of the field blends in the Marcel Deiss wines.

Paired nicely with fried oysters and duck fat potatoes. 


 

Sunday, April 4, 2021

Easter wines

 Buona Pasqua!


Enjoyed several different wines... all very tasty.  First time to try the 2016 Schulthauser... nice, but not as elegant as Terlano's Vorberg Riserva cuvee... 
....the Fiano was a bit young.. 
....the Rilly-La-Montagne was delicious, although perhaps not quite as à pointe as a bottle we enjoyed 3 years ago. 
The Vaudieu is entering a nice drinking window..

Saturday, March 27, 2021

2006 Giovanni Sordo Barolo Perno Castiglione Falletto Riserva

 14% abv

Raised in Slavonian oak botti
Southeastern vineyard orientation at 325m above sea level.
Irresistible deep black cherry palate with accents of earth, sottobosco and goudron. Lengthy finish that explodes with lip smackingly delicious, finely burnished tannins. With extended aeration,  an alluring nose of violets develops.
Wonderful now with air, peaking in another 3 to 5 years.
First time I've come across this producer. This is an excellent Riserva Barolo.

Tuesday, March 23, 2021

2018 Giuseppe Quintarelli Bianco Secco Cá Del Merlo

 12.5% abv

Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Bianco, Chardonnay, Saorin

30 year old vines on limestone and basalt

What is it about the white wines of Northern Italy that make them so satisfying?

This is a jewel of a wine... wafts of honeysuckle on the nose... tropical palate with a subtle viscosity on the finish.

Cá del Merlo translates to House of the Blackbird, I think.

Saturday, March 13, 2021

Great cigar and Bourbon

 One of life's little pleasures... a nice Habana Bolivar and Bourbon !



Thursday, March 11, 2021

2007 Mas de Boislauzon Chateauneuf-du-Pape

 Tasty. Coming into its own now with full black fruit complemented by garrigue, spice and a solid underpinning of minerality. Deft combination of mostly Grenache with some Mourvedre. This has at least another 5 to 7 years of prime drinking window.  Around 13% abv. Not particularly elegant,  but precise... no heat... food friendly. Interesting bits of tertiary development at this stage.


Saturday, March 6, 2021

2010 Domaine Pierre Usseglio CdP Cuvée de mon Aïeul

 Crystalline elegance in a glass. Rich grenache (I thought a dollop of Mourvedre, but it's all Grenache) with an endless finish. Pure and seductive. Wow!


Similar quality of super - refined fruit and texture as found in the 2010 Booker Ripper,  which is a fantastic bottle of Grenache.  

I think there is some whole cluster at work here with the depth of flavor.

Drink one now to taste this stuff and hold the rest for future glory.

Sunday, February 21, 2021

2014 Kelley Fox Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard

 I've posted about this cuvee before. and this bottle warrants a follow up. It is a wine that is impossible to put down. Each sip over dinner brings an interesting new facet as the wine unfolds. 50% whole cluster adds a very unique brambly character that I've fallen in love with... and a beautiful nose to match....

It reminds me of a Vosne-Romanee from Dugat-Py.

Friday, February 19, 2021

2001 La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino Vigna gli Angeli

 


What a treat to enjoy a 20 year old Riserva in fine shape! It is on the far end of its prime drinking window, though. Tannins have melted leaving beautiful aged, piquant Sangiovese red fruit. Paired nicely with filet mignon. 

Saturday, February 13, 2021

2011 Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione

 


Coming into its early drinking window.

Uniquely delicious blue fruit character reflects the pedigree of 80 year old vines planted to the Sangiovese di Lamole clone in a high altitude vineyard (450 meters elevation) in Greve.

Quite luscious up front with impeccably graceful tannins that caress the palate. This will only get better over time.

I love Il Carbonaione in any vintage. Paired nicely with filet mignon.

Saturday, February 6, 2021

2004 Conterno-Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra

 


First day , pretty in your face tannin , even with decanting.  Vacuvin and revisit over the course of a couple of weeks, and a very enjoyable wine emerged. Hold another handful of years for more development...

Saturday, January 30, 2021

2016 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva

 


Heavenly white from Alto Adige. Can't wait to visit once travel is feasible.

More playful than the 2015 with gorgeous intensity in the fruit.  Haven't tried the 2017 yet.

Paired deliciously with fried oysters (garnished with dill yogurt and Calabrian chile oil) and duck fat fried potatoes (garnished with crab fat mayonnaise)..

Producer notes:

Terlano is far from your average producer of Alto Adige wines. With a history of production, varied terroir and time-honored traditions that date back to 1893, Terlano is unique in many ways. The goal at Terlano is to make wines that will stand the test of time. In the cellars of Terlano you’ll find vintages going back to 1893, with 1955 marking the first year that they began to hold back bottled wines in quantity. Beyond that, the winery currently has sixteen steel tanks which house vintages going back to 1979. These wines were vinified and refined for one year in large oak before being placed into steel tank (2,500 liters) and allowed to mature on the lees for ten years or more. These tanks represent future vintages for their Rarity Selection, a limited annual release (around 3,300 bottles), and only when the winery deems the vintage to be showing well. Again, the test of time is paramount at Terlano. Speaking of wood, all of the whites are refined in large cask and stainless steel. All the smaller oak and tonneaux is saved for their selection of red wines, such as the old vines Lagrein Riservas from the Gries vineyard in Bolzano. Talking about the future is difficult with an estate that prides itself in twenty-to-forty-year-old vintages, yet what Terlano is sure of is that the wines they make today will go on to stand tall amongst them. It was also very interesting tasting Terlano samples from the dry and hot 2017 vintage. I mention this mainly to point out the success they had in spite of the vintage conditions. However, variability can be witnessed when comparing the 2017 Lagrein Porphyr, which showed more wood and overripe fruit, to the Lagrein Gries, a wine in perfect balance. -- Eric Guido, November 2020

Sunday, January 24, 2021

2010 Gravner Ribolla

 Sometimes you are fortunate to enjoy a bottle of wine that has close to perfect pitch. This is the best bottle I've ever had from Josko Gravner, the Maestro.

Subtle aromatics, but the complexity of the palate is wonderful at this stage of development. White peach, almond, pit and a honeyed (but not sweet) viscosity on a lengthy, beautifully alluring finish that draws you in. Don't drink this too cold. It unfolds beautifully in the glass.
I look forward to the release of the 2010 Gravner Ribolla Riserva in 2024. Paired nicely with grilled salmon.



Producer notes:

Roughly thirty-two hectares (of which eighteen are under vine) located in the high quality area of Oslavia in the Collio, a true if unofficial grand cru for Ribolla Gialla. The estate is arguably Italy’s best (by far) at making minimal intervention wines, with long macerations, was one of the first to turn to amphoras as an aging vessel. There is simply no comparison between Gravner’s wines (in matters of texture, cleanliness, precision and depth) and similarly made wines by practically anyone else in the region or the country, for that matter. That fact recognized, I want to stress that the talent level has always been extraordinary here, such that the wines have always been outstanding, and this was true even long ago when long macerations and amphoras weren’t an issue. Witness for example the magnificent 1983 Ribolla Gialla that I remember well from my university days in Rome. Today the estate is all about trying to re-establish a natural balance in its vineyards (for example by creating ponds on the property and by planting olive, wild apple trees and cypresses to create a habitat for different animals), moving away with as much technology and equipment and utensils as possible, such as barriques. Over the years the estate has also moved away from a lot of the different varieties it had planted, so there are no more Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Grigio wines produced, for example. The Ribolla Gialla wines age extremely well and though you have to like white wines being treated as reds, it’s hard to argue with their quality. Even more impressive is the Rosso Breg, made with Pignolo (the only red grape left on the property), a variety that gives “tough tannins” a whole new meaning, yet Gravner’s version is remarkably complex and smooth. -- Ian D'Agata, May 2018

Great videos:

I'd really like to visit someday...




Day two notes:

The palate has continued to blossom with enhanced depth and complexity. I can understand why Gravner sees the framework for a  Riserva release in 2024 in this vintage. It is a truly beautiful wine.






Gravner's winery and vineyards are located just north of the town of Oslavia in the Collio Goriziano DOC.


Sunday, January 17, 2021

2006 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia

 In a somewhat disjointed phase (or perhaps bottle variation). Too tannic on the first day, then better on day 2 and day 3. Deep black cherry fruit up front giving way to some heat and not a lot of complexity on the finish. Definitely not in the same league as the legendary 2004 vintage Rancia, which has been beautiful throughout its life.  The 2006 may be in a race to see if the fruit outlives the tannins. 


Saturday, January 9, 2021

2014 Marie Courtin Efflorescence

 Deg. Dec 2018, 12% abv

100% Pinot Noir. 
Lovely stuff, drinkly nicely now. Marie Courtin and Bérêche are two Champagne producers that I am very fond of.

Producer notes:

"...Champagne Marie Courtin is located in the village of Polisot in the Côte des Bars (often referred to as the Aube), in the southern part of the Champagne region. With its slightly warmer temperatures, this area is particularly prized for its Pinot Noir grapes. Combined with the Kimmeridgian limestone sub soils, Aube champagnes retain a freshness similar to Chablis, which is more of a neighbor to Polisot than Epernay or Reims! In fact, many of the Grand Marques source their Pinot Noir from the Côte des Bars because of this unique combination of texture and delineation that the sub-zone provides.

Dominique Moreau created the estate in 2005 with a vision to produce a series of single-vineyard, single-variety, single-vintage Champagnes from Biodynamically-grown grapes that are farmed and elaborated with meticulous care. This philosophy is in stark contrast with the predominant mindset in Champagne which has historically focused on blending grapes, vineyards and vintages to achieve a consistent product or "house style", and with a tendency towards very high yields and full-on chemical treatments. For Dominique Moreau and likeminded growers, their house style is their terroirs, and is influenced by important factors such as massale selection clones and the ecoysystem of which their vines are a part.

Most of Dominique's wines come from a hillside vineyard of 40-45 year old, massale-selection Pinot Noir in Polisot (located the next town over from Celles-sur-Ource, where Cédric Bouchard lives and works). The combination of low yields, clay-limestone soils with bands of Kimmeridgian, and an east/southeast exposure gives the wines both power and cut, with an intense brininess and minerality at their core.

At harvest, the grapes are all harvested by hand. The wines are fermented with natural yeasts that have been selected from their vineyards and cultivated separately. These native yeasts are used for both the primary and secondary fermentations. Lastly, there is no dosage added upon disgorgement.

Dominique makes several cuvées, but the bulk of her small production is split between her cuvées Résonance and Éfflorescence, the former fermented in stainless steel and aged sur lattes for 24 months, and the latter is fermented and aged in used barriques, followed by 36 months sur lattes. The grapes for Resonance are from the top of the slope, whereas Efflorescence fruit comes from the bottom of the hill, which she says “has greater power and potential”. The third Blanc de Noirs is a zero sulfur cuvée known as Concordance, which minted Dominique's reputation as a deft vinifier.

“Efflorescence” means "to evolves in perpetuity”. Starting with the evolution encouraged by the small oxygen exchange in barrel, she feels that this wine in particular will show a very different face at each stage of its development in bottle..."

Tuesday, December 8, 2020

2015 Christophe et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume

 Abv 13%


Irresistible citrus attack supported by mouthwatering salinity and followed by lemon confit balanced with food friendly acidity on the finish. Sebastian Christophe is an up and coming young producer who farms a south facing plot of vines in the Côte de Fontenay lieu-dit, that were planted by his uncle in 1981.

Aging occurs for one year in stainless steel (80%) and the remainder in 228-liter oak barrels (new wood is approximately 7%). The wine is fined and filtered. A very satisfying Chablis overall. 

Paired nicely with grilled sashimi tuna filet.