Les Tastevins du Lac is dedicated to camaraderie in pursuit of joie de vino! This blog serves as an informal forum on wine, food and travel.... Cheers! Steve Adams





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Wednesday, August 25, 2021

2015 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert

 


Subtle florals with hint of bacon fat on the nose.  Young but shows nicely with aeration. Purple fruit up front backed a super enticing minerally, mouthwatering framework of elegant tannins, followed by olive and spice notes on the finish. Damn, this is a nice vintage for the Thalabert cuvee.


Here is a bit of background on this cru...

"...The Thalabert vineyard sits on the rocky plain of Les Chassis on the left bank of the Rhone River, sandwiched between Tain l’Hermitage to the north and Pont de l’Isere to the south. In a large appellation such as Crozes, the quality of terroir is heavily varied, with preferred sites found on the stone-heavy, less clay influenced sections of Les Chassis, close to the riverbed. This area is where many of the appellations top producers grow their vines, including the famed Alain Graillot. In his book ‘The Wines of the Northern Rhone’ Jonathan Livingston Learmonth describes the soil as “a gravel couch (20-30 meters of gravelly stones), with around half a meter of alluvial stones of Alpine origin on the surface.” It is this so-called “French drain” that sets Thalabert apart as the benchmark terroir in the southern Crozes-Hermitage...
  • The first ever vineyard owned by Paul Jaboulet – purchased in 1834. Also holds the distinction as the oldest vineyard of the appellation. Considered the benchmark for Crozes-Hermitages with the ability to age for decades.
  • 60-80 year old vines
  • Biodynamically farmed
  • Vines grown on pebbly terraces that are glacial in origin, with the bedrock close to the topsoil. These small, round pebbles store heat during the day and release it at night, providing optimum and regular maturity.
  • Very low yields of 25 hl/ha
  • Aged in French oak, 20% new


 

Saturday, August 21, 2021

2015 Bordatto Etxaldea Basa Juan

 Excellent cider from the tiny French Basque village of Jaxu, in the foothills of the Pyrenees,  inland from Biarritz.  Opened up beautifully over the course of a couple of hours...👍

Sunday, August 15, 2021

Two Spanish White Wines




2016 Raventós i Blanc De La Finca Conca del Riu Anoia

50% Xarel-lo, 40% Macabeo, 10% Parellada, each varietal coming from different plots, fermented separately and then blended for aging on the lees. Vineyards are located about 35 miles inland from Barcelona.

Fresh and inviting fruit-dominated nose. Mouthwatering citrus attack followed by succulent mid-palate with saline, spicy finish.  Interesting combination of grapes that I have little experience with. Paired nicely with Jamón+Manchego croquetas and patatas brava.

2008 López de Heredia Viña Gravonia Blanco

Love this classic Rioja Blanco. Viura character on full display with piquant lemon character up front followed by marzipan and ginger on a saline finish.  Paired well with Gambas al Ajillo and Rockfish al la Plancha.


Friday, August 13, 2021

2017 Bodegas Cota 45 UBE Maina La Charanga

 


A unique and interesting effort from winemaker Ramiro Ibáñez. 100% Palomino grapes sourced from a single vineyard in Sanlucar. Albarizas de Barajuelas soils are dominated by chalk and clay.



Shy, nutty nose with hint of petrol. Bone dry palate of almonds and stone fruit. Subtle salinity and a pithy, tonic finish. Reminds me texturally of a young Trocken Riesling, but with less acidity. Showing more on day two, this has aging potential.  Paired nicely with lobster.


Sunday, August 8, 2021

2019 Elena Walch Sauvignon Blanc Vigna Castel Ringberg

 My first experience with the Elena Walch wines from Alto Adige.

The Sauvignon Blanc is from from their Castel Ringberg vineyards (calcareous substrate mixed granitic glacial gravels) which are situtated above Caldaro Lake (just south of Bolzano). It is a beautiful wine at a very reasonable price.

A heady, tropically influenced nose greets you, followed by a minerally citrus palate and an elegant finish.This is a Sauvignon Blanc that could only be produced in the foothills of the Dolomite Mountains. Highly recommended.

Elena and her daughters, Karoline and Julia, also produce an excellent Chardonnay and are scheduled to introduce a Blanc de Blancs cuvee in 2022.




 

2018 Manuel Moldes Rias Baixas Albariño Afelio

 


Beautiful salinity frames lemon and grapefruit palate. A very enjoyable Galician white paired with spicy tempura fried lobster tails.

In the Val do Salnés region of Rias Baixas, vines are traditionally trained on a wire trellis supported by granite posts called a “parra,” which allow breezes to come through and dry the grapes after the region’s frequent showers. (Similar to the rock supported pergola system in the Carema region of Italy). The sandy, granitic soils provide critical drainage in this region that is subject to heavy storms from the Atlantic Ocean.



Grapes are whole bunch pressed in basket press for thirty minutes, then the grape must is settled and racked off after 24-48 hours. Barrels have no temperature control inside, only the natural temperature in the cold cellar to regulate. (Similar to Lopez de Heredia in Rioja). Fermentation is usually ten days and the wine is racked off its gross lees. Malolactic fermentation is not desired and rarely happens.
Aged in stainless steel for eight months and two months in old French oak barrels. Fined and filtered for bottling.


Monday, July 19, 2021

Jura, Sonoma and Campania!

 A few wines enjoyed over the weekend.


The 2009 Kanzler was absolutely delicious. Took a while to open up. Lots of gas left in the tank on this one. 

I am smitten by the 2018 Domaine du Pélican Savagnin skin contact cuvee. Just stunning complexity, fruit, mouthfeel. Can't get enough of this wine. Jura whites rock 👍

The 2007 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva showed very well. Needs a few more years of cellaring. Not as graceful as the 2006, but tasty.

The Savignin was paired with fried oysters and hushpuppies. 

The reds were paired with grilled sausages, pork spare ribs and beef brisket.


Tuesday, June 22, 2021

2012 Le Piane Boca

 Mostly Nebbiolo with some Vespolina. 

Classic old school Alto Piemonte. The Vespolina provides a nice lift to the deep black fruit. Insanely alluring melange of creosote, sottobosco and, emerging with air, mint on the mid-palate. Tannins are maturing nicely.

The tannins in the 2012 Le Piane Boca retain a little bite, but they don't clench down with extended aeration in a decanter. 

Alto Piemonte drinkability likely influenced by amount of Vespolina and Croatina in the blend. For example, the 2013 Le Pianelle Bramaterra is in a great zone now, IMO, and it has around 20% combined Vespolina and Croatina...

Have some of 2012 Le Piane  Boca left over for day two notes. Am impressed by the classic cloth this wine is cut from...


Sunday, June 20, 2021

2019 Forman Chardonnay

 13.5% abv

Sourced from Star Vineyard in Rutherford. 

No malo. 20% new oak.
Disappointing. I was expecting a nice blast of fruit, but the fruit is marred by oak.
I've had tasty bottles of Forman Chardonnay.  This is not one. 

Saturday, June 19, 2021

NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Tradition


Deg July 2020
12.5abv
Mostly pinot noir with some chardonnay.
Very dry, oxidative style that is different than what I normally drink. My favorite Egly-Ouriet cuvee is the VP.   A bit "in your face" after intial pouring. Settled down over time and paired magically with calamari and crab cakes. 





Saturday, June 5, 2021

2019 Ciro Picariello Greco di Tufo


 Citrus and spice on the nose. Lemony palate upfront giving way to savory honeydew imbued with saline minerality. Nice structure. Delicious now. Outperformed expectations. Extremely good value at $22.00.


Produced from organically farmed Greco vines (planted circa 1995) in volcanic-influenced soils of clay, limestone and sandstone. Harvest takes place by hand in late October. Low temperature natural fermentation in stainless, before 8 additional months aging in stainless, on the lees. Bottle aging for an additional 3 months before release. No fining, no filtration.

Sourced from vineyards in Tufo and Montefusco - some of the highest and most mineral zones in the Greco di Tufo appellation.

Saturday, May 29, 2021

2013 Marcel Deiss Grasberg

 


12.5% abv

Field blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer
Absolutely gorgeous and in prime drinking window...

Friday, May 28, 2021

2018 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb AP 4

Made from Fuder Onkel Peter (ungrafted old vines) and Fuder Kleiner Klaus (old vines).  

An incredible effort showcasing the dedication and genius of the Webers... simply divine...



Wednesday, May 26, 2021

2018 Domaine du Pélican Savagnin Macération Pélliculaire

 



I am a complete neophyte when it comes to Savagnin and the wines of Jura. This wine is outrageously delicious. It has a texture or mouthfeel reminiscent of Ribolla Gialla. Wonderful with grilled salmon.

Wednesday, May 19, 2021

2016 Muraje Sumié (Carema)

 

Muraje is a relatively new Producer that came to my attention thanks to @"Werner Van Damme".

Deceptively delicate in body yet gains presence over the course of several hours in a decanter,  blossoming with elegant spice and sour cherry character. Nice floral nose. Tar-influenced Nebbiolo typicity that is usually evident in Carema reds seems to be missing. It may develop the tarry character over time, but as of now it's like a purebred Beagle that has a muted voice.

 Overall, this is a mighty fine effort. Perhaps best described as a gorgeous Burgundian styled wine with lots of complexity even at this early stage. The bottle disappears quickly. It is eminently drinkable.

Producer notes:

"....Sumié is the local name of the main wooden pole of the pergola-topia structure.

This 90% Nebbiolo from Carema is not labelled as a Carema because it was vinified in Boca in the legendary cellars of Le Piane.  Subsequent vintages will be labelled as Carema as Muraje now have a full functional cellar as of 2017 in Carema.

The 2016 is back vintage 90% Nebbiolo (10% from Neyret, Pugnet and Ner d'Ala) grown topia style in Carema.  It's made from a local clone of Nebbiolo known as picotener or picotendro.  This clone is known its elegant fine tannins and is highly aromatic...."

---------------

Day 2 impressions...

Fleshed out nicely while retaining its delicate character.... somewhat reminiscent of a Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena with its unique flavor profile based on the Nebbiolo Rose varietal (sans the dusty tannins). Very nice acidity with faint elements of tar and roses showing up, signaling its Carema heritage.


A premium cuvee in style and price meant to compete with Ferrando Nebbiolo di Carema. Muraje is the elegant cuvee with gossamer attributes while the Ferrando is a bigger style that demands cellaring. 

Monday, May 17, 2021

2015 Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale

 Better on day 2 suggesting this will benefit from further cellaring. If trying one now, give it plenty of air but serve properly chilled. 


Think delicious Meursault....but with the lemony goodness influenced by the kiss of Adriatic Sea air,  nurturing a beautiful mouthwatering salinity.  Lovely balance with 12.5% abv. Pergola trained, 70 to 80 year old vines (massale selection) on calcareous soils. Free run juice only, no wood, no malo. What gem of a wine! 👍 Brava , Cristiana Tiberio...

More info at:  http://www.tiberio.it/websiteita/









Saturday, May 15, 2021

2018 Borgo del Tiglio Studio di Bianco

 


50% Friulano, 25% Sauvignon, 25% Riesling
14.5% abv

I've virtually no experience with the Friulano varietal so this wine was a treat. Could benefit from another year or two of cellaring, but is very tasty now. Shy nose with elegant stone fruit on the palate and an intriguing hint of mint of the finish.  Complexity without weight...a contemplative wine.
Paired nicely with sausage stuffed portabella shrooms and wood fire grilled veggies.





I must include the wonderful Producer notes from Eric Guido for reference...

"...Speaking with Mattia Manferrari, of Borgo del Tiglio, inevitably resulted in a long and thorough conversation about terroir. The reason being that this top-level Friuli producer ultimately places the most importance upon location and the vines that grow there. The Manferrari family tends three vineyards throughout the Collio region. The Brazzano cru is located around the winery, and it’s also one of the first parcels acquired four generations ago. This is the warmest of the Borgo del Tiglio sources with ponca soils, a layered mix of marl, sandstone and marine fossils, making it ideal for the Friulano that produces the Ronco della Chiesa and the Merlot that creates the Rosso della Centa. This location is also home to ancient Malvasia vines that inform the Italo & Bruno. Further into the hills, near the small village of Ruttars, we find a cooler climate with ponca soils laced with limestone, which creates the perfect environment for aromatic white varieties. This is the source of the Collio Bianco and the single-vineyard Studio di Bianco, a field blend of Friulano, Sauvignon and Riesling. Then there is Ca delle Vallade, the coolest section of the Collio, where Borgo del Tiglio sources their Chardonnay from red, iron-rich soils. In order to highlight the specific characteristics of each of these vineyards, a low-impact process is followed in the winery. Fruit is pre-sorted in the vineyards and pressed gently, where only free-flow juice is used to retain acidity and finesse, and just 50% of the weight of the grapes actually makes it into two-to-five-year-old barrels for fermentation and refinement over nine months (with the exception of about 20% new oak for the Chardonnay). As for the vintage in front of us, primarily 2018, it ended up being an early yet extended harvest. Early due to a warm spring, yet cool and dry temperatures through September allowed the vineyard teams to pick at the most opportune times. Unfortunately, hail in July drastically lowered yields in the cooler-climate vineyards, as much as 50% for the Studio di Bianco and Chardonnay. In most cases, I found the 2018s to have more textural girth than expected, yet they were balanced and energetic. This mix provides a bit more upfront appeal to the new releases, but don’t make the mistake of thinking that these won’t mature beautifully over medium-term cellaring. -- Eric Guido, January 2021..."

Excellent reference article on Borgo del Tiglio:

Italian white wines

 



Interesting sweep of Italian white wines.... all very tasty, however the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo edged the others in terms of sheer excitement and liveliness....

Tuesday, May 4, 2021

Sake


Being a sake neophyte, there's a new frontier to explore...

Tippling this tonight.  While the nose is highly aromatic with hints of sweetness, the palate is elegantly dry. Banana is prevalent when served cold, giving way to hints of lychee and umami character on the finish. Very pleasing. Crystal clear in color.

Sunday, May 2, 2021

2011 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello

Checking in at the 10 year mark. Absolutely gorgeous upon opening the bottle. Perfumed nose leaps forth. Delicious fruit from the first taste. Elegant sweetness to the tannins. All components come together to deliver a seamlesss structure. One of the best Ovello's I've had.

Decanted and aerated. About 2 hours in, the tannins begin to clinch down and what was an elegant finish becomes more closed, hiding any nuance from the fruit. Tannic influence dominates the finish as time goes on.
This is a jewel of a wine in its early stages of development. Needs another 3 to 5 years of cellaring (minimum). Will continue to develop and benefit from cellaring for at least another 10 years.
Paired nicely with smoked pork shoulder, smoked beef brisket, collard greens and hush puppies.