Prunotto Barbaresco Montestefano 1989

Slow-oxygenated in bottle for a couple of hours and then decanted at the restaurant.  A pleasant wine with classic Barbaresco palate, however aromatics are a bit tired. Past its glory days but very food friendly.  The fruit has faded a bit more than you would want ... probably in its prime about 4 or 5 years ago. An interesting first experience with this vineyard. From a producer perspective,  we enjoyed a 1985 Prunotto Cannubi last year that was showing better. 

Dinner at a favorite restaurant, Mimosa Grill ... the crawfish and shrimp stuffed hushpuppies are a must. Wood grilled chicken stuffed with fennel sausage is incredible.  Interesting short rib preparation with a soft boiled egg. The crispy sorghum-glazed shaved Brussels sprouts are off-the-charts good.

The Best of Barbaresco and Barolo

At dinner on Sunday at Tribeca Grill, a '98 Giacosa Santo Stefano Riserva and a '99 Bartolo Mascarello from Signor Melito's cellar were a wonderful treat ! 

My vote goes to the Riserva as the wine of the evening.  The thing that always shines in truly great wines is impeccable balance... Giacosa defines gorgeous aromatics, refined tannins and pure fruit. Drinking extremely well now.

The Mascarello is still young at this stage of the game, yet paired wondrously with the delicious Gigantone short rib Bolognese that I had for dinner.  A more structured wine with alluring sottobosco... the last of it went way too soon!

We enjoyed an Egly-Ouriet Les Crayeres NV, disgorged in 2010 I believe, as a prelude.  (Thanks, Marius, for the recommendation!)... A great Champagne that is 100% pinot noir ... paired beautifully with rock shrimp tempura.

A delightful conclusion to a weekend in NYC for Janet and I ... thank you Ignatius and Carolyn for your hospitality!

Albert Morot Beaune les Bressandes 1990 and 2002

Have been looking forward to trying these side by side. Slow oxygenation for both bottles for 2.5 hours prior to dinner. 

1990 ---

Delicious fruit aromatics emerging immediately upon popping the cork... there is really nothing else like a lovely older Burgundy... a true pinnacle for the pinot noir varietal.  Lighter garnet color and quite translucent.  Mouth-watering gossamer tannins with gorgeous, aged red cherry fruit.  This wine is a great example of why the 1990 vintage in Burgundy may be the best ever.  Very well balanced at 13% alcohol.  Morot is just a tremendous value.

2002 ---

A relatively youngster compared to the 1990... darker in color and more tartness to the cherry fruit as would be expected.  Fine balance with weightier tannins, yet still holding the line at 13% alc.  Almost a bit new world-ish after the 1990.  Absolutely fascinating to taste the terroir of this vineyard shining through from two vintages that are 12 years apart. Kudos to Morot for consistency and transparency in winemaking.  

The 1990 sang throughout dinner and it was finished first, paired with:

    Crab cakes made of smoked trout & lump crab complemented by greens with grilled red     onion, sweet basil & bacon aioli

    Hushpuppies stuffed with crawfish & shrimp drizzled with leek fondue accompanied by     crispy leeks

Followed with the 2002 paired with:

    Wood grilled spring lamb tenderloin complemented by melange of roasted sweet          carrots, spring peas, pearl onions with crispy micro-mushrooms and hazelnut pesto.

    Chicken stuffed with fennel sausage along with roasted cabbage & potato puree,    chorizo vinaigrette

    Roasted Salmon with cauliflower puree, charred leeks salsa verde and creme fraiche

    Pecan crusted mountain trout with peach chutney, baby green beans, yukon whipped potatoes with honey-lemon butter  

    Sorghum-glazed, shaved Brussels sprouts with smoked bacon 

    Cajun shrimp jambalaya with andouille sausage and scallions

Finished the last of the 2002 with creme brulee and bourbon bread pudding.... it was just coming into its own.  

Giovanni Corino Barolo Vigneto Arborina 1999

Full decant 3 hours ahead of dinner.  The 1999 vintage Barolo's benefit from lots of aeration. 

First impression: deep, dark color and big tannins ... has a ways to go yet till maturity.

As the wine opened up, the lovely rose petal and tar profile came around... this one could be considered just on the cusp of its drinking window.

Warm, attractive perfumed nose with ripe fruit, sous bois and mineral palate ... distinct "Piemonte dust".  Easily another 15 years of solid enjoyment ahead ... probably best to try again in 2 to 3 years. 

Paired with Chicken Parmesan for dinner along with heirloom tomato and mozzarella di bufala stacks drizzled with 10 year old balsamic (love this dish).

Continued to open up over the course of 6 hours... nice, but a bit warm with 14.5% alc. that precludes it from being a truly well-balanced wine.   Still have a bit left to try on day 2 or 3 ... 

Pelissero Barbaresco Vanotu 1998

Slow-oxygenated in bottle for 2.5 hours prior to dinner.  Gorgeous aromatics and stunning palate right away upon opening the bottle.  I have had great experiences over the past couple of years with 1998 vintage Barbaresco... 

14% alc, upfront black fruit, spice, mocha and tar... sweet aromatics that opened up gloriously at dinner.  Very alluring minerality manifested by limestone marl terroir. 

Paired with flash-fried, spicy tempura-battered langoustine (incredibly delicious) and very tasty roasted duck.

My first experience with Pellissero. Reminds me of a slightly more elegant version of Bruno Rocca Rabaja.  

I believe that Vanotu is the nickname of the Grandfather of Signore Giorgio Pelissero, the owner of the estate.  The vineyard intersects the Barbaresco, Treiso and Neive districts.  Here is a link to an interesting interview: http://www.terroirist.com/2012/05/weekly-interview-giorgio-pelissero/

Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 1999 and Damilano Barolo Cannubi 2000

First try for the '99 Giacosa Falletto ... opened 3.5 hours prior to dinner.  Seemed tight so did a full decant. Let me say right off the bat that if you have some of this vintage, I highly recommend holding onto to it for at least another 5 years.  I was quite surprised at the reticence of this wine. It started to open up a bit more 6 hours after full decant.  Unfortunately, there was none left for a day two appraisal... Once it started to open, there was a lovely, balanced sweetness to the wine that complemented extremely well balanced tannins... a masculine wine that is going to take a few more years.  Still, at the end of the evening, it was quite alluring.

Have had the Damilano Cannubi before and knew that this 2000 bottling was a stunner now.  This beauty was absolutely delicious right from the start and got even better as the evening progressed.  Velvet texture, luscious fruit, spices and light creosote... Highly recommended!

Here are the notes from January for the Damilano Cannubi: http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/01/luigi-pira-barolo-marenca-2000-and.html

Paired the wines with grilled filet mignon for dinner (all wines pictured)

Castellare I Sodi di San Niccolo Vino da Tavola 2001

Day 1 - Slow oxygenated in bottle for 2 hours. 13.5 alc. 85% Sangioveto, 15% Malvasia Nera aged 24 months in French oak (50% new).  Red currant with some herbaceous and fennel accents. Ruby with slight brick edges. Nice piquancy on the finish. The Malvasia Nera provides more of an earthy component.  A weightier style that lacks sangiovese's sweetness of fruit often found in neighboring Chianti Classico. Very muted nose.  Overall impression is that this wine is not near to giving its all yet.  Approachable now, but better to wait another 2 to 3 years.

Day 3 - Keeping in mind that this is my first experience with a blend of Sangioveto & Malvasia Nera, the earthiness calls for food to complement the wine and bring out its true character. Delightful with wild mushroom agnolotti. The Malvasia Nera seems to lend an interesting graphite component as well (similar to Malbec with a Bordeaux blend?).  I actually prefer a more traditional blend of sangiovese and canaiolo that is typical in Chianti Classico.

Chateau de Saint Cosme Cote Rotie 2003

Popped and poured, 13.5% alc., first impression is Wow!  Very fine blackberry fruit with olive and coffee notes that make this an extremely alluring wine. Excellent acidity and tartness rendering it incredibly food friendly. Just on the cusp of its drinking window... it wouldn't hurt to wait a year or so...I am curious to find out if this vintage was made with whole cluster (which is done with later vintages).  

4 hours later... the aromatics are really kicking in with violets and lavender... I would be willing to bet that this vintage incorporates a bit of Viognier.  Delightful, classic Northern Rhone profile....

A blend of low-yield fruit from Les Roziers, Les Grandes Places, Viaillere and Champin vineyards.  Aged quite deftly in 100% new oak ... there is no negative impact from the new oak as the fruit and terroir shine through here.  Louis Barruol is one of my favorite Rhone producers.  Two hearty thumbs up...

Dehlinger Pinot Noir Goldridge Vineyard 2002

Popped and poured. 14.6% alc. Enjoyed this with grilled tuna (alongside the Kalin and Brewer Clifton) http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/03/kalin-cellars-chardonnay-cuvee-ld-1995.html

Day 1 - A solidly enjoyable pinot noir ... drink up now.  Mild floral aromatics with palate of sweet cherry ... very nice sous bois component is what really makes this wine.  This is not a big wine like the Estate bottling (perhaps due to use of some whole clusters in the Estate bottling).

Day 3 - Forest floor component continues to develop along with spices and the fruit is hanging in nicely with muted acidity.  Good balance but not a lot of depth.  Still a delightful if not great wine.  Just right with the grilled tuna on Day 1 and Chicken Dijon on Day 3.

Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvee LD 1995 and Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Mount Carmel Vineyard 2004

Two quite different styles of wine with interesting stories.  

The Kalin (Russian River):

Kalin white wines are clearly cut from long-lived cloth.... amazing actually for California chardonnay.   This Cuvee LD has a moderate alcohol level of 13.8%.  

Day 1 - popped and poured ... clear, light gold color....earthy funk on the nose that dissipated over the course of the first hour, being replacing by subtle citrus fruit aromatics.  Palate is mellow marmalade fruit with a hint of butterscotch.  Crisp but lacking in substantial minerality that I enjoy so much in chardonnay from Burgundy (perhaps an unfair comparison). Paired well with fresh steamed shrimp followed by grilled tuna.

Day 3 - Aromatics have amped up quite a bit, and there seems to be more mineral presence than before.  Nose is quite tropical (a bit of pineapple?), and there is an overall sweetness to the fruit that wasn't there on day 1 ... I would swear there is some semillon at play here... overall an amazing wine for the price (around $30) ... drinking a bit of history ... this wine has an interesting story to tell.

The Brewer Clifton (Santa Ynez):

Day 1 - popped and poured alongside the Kalin.  14.9% alc.  Darker gold color.  Was expecting more from this wine based on previous experience with delicious (albeit younger) Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay.  Parker updated his notes on this wine in Nov 2013 stating that it is a beauty with another decade of drinking.  My primary impression of this wine is that the fruit has faded somewhat, leaving behind an oaky framework. Hollow mid-palate and lacking in complexity compared to the Kalin.  Opened up a bit over the next couple of hours and the fruit gained a bit of momentum.

Day 3 - While the Kalin has continued to evolve, the Brewer-Clifton has plateaued.  Primary impression is still a wine where the fruit is past peak leaving behind a too much oak. Still tasty, though, with the grilled tuna.

Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigneto Loreto 1996

This beauty was open for business right out of the gate.  Wow, talk about gorgeous purple fruit!  Knew I needed to find more of this right away.  My favorite of the Albino Rocca Barbaresco's to date.  Voluptuous, but will appeal to both modern and traditional tastes because of its transparency to terroir.

Opened this for slow-o in bottle.  Served at dinner a couple of hours later with grilled filet mignon, sauteed mushrooms, garlic-herb risotto and artichoke salad.

Grand-niece was visiting with her boyfriend on spring break from college.  Fascinating to watch these two young people's eyes light up when they realized what they were drinking.  

The Loreto went pretty quickly so we popped and decanted a 1997 Bruno Rocca Rabaja... Hard to choose which one was the favorite.  The Loreto had a more classic profile and definitely has many more years of life ahead.  The Rabaja is at its peak and is so seductive right now.... here are notes from previous review
 http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/03/bruno-rocca-barbaresco-rabaja-1997.html

Quintarelli Ca' del Merlo Rosso 2000

A memorable wine.  Popped and poured with plan for slow-oxygenation for the evening.  Drank this beauty over the course of 7 hours.

15% alc.  Marvelous out of the gate ... Not quite like anything I have had before.  Hard to really describe (for me)... better to just get some and taste it. 

Palate is red currant, spice and mineral with beautiful tension between acidity and fruit that lends a fascination to the wine ... nose is closed at first with a slight funk that dissipated over the first hour.

Over the course of the next 4 hours the wine gained serious presence ... one of those wines that has amazing depth... ... really opening up with floral aromatics and a bit of creosote.  

After almost 7 hours, it was really taking off.  I have no doubt that this wine would be amazing on day 2,3 and beyond... alas, couldn't resist finishing off the bottle.

Vineyards are mixed limestone and basalt soils. 

Varietals are 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina, Sangiovese...

- Grapes are pressed immediately after harvest
- After 3 to 4 days of maceration, primary fermentation starts with indigenous yeasts
- Wine is racked and then sits until February
- Wine is racked onto the lees of the Amarone which starts a second alcoholic fermentation (ripasso)
- After 2ndary fermentation, the wine is racked into large Slavonian oak barrels for seven years

I believe that Merlo translates to "Blackbird" ...

Paired with wild mushroom agnolotti for dinner, followed by cheese course (Asiago, Parmesan Reggiano) with fruit (fresh mango) and a bit of dark chocolate with espresso later in the evening.

Clarendon Hills Syrah Hickinbotham 2003

From Steve Russo: An unbelievably smokey blackberry and mineral dominated wine with just a touch of sweetness on the finish.  

Terredora Taurasi Pago dei Fusi 2004

From Leonard... 

This wine is in a good place. A 4 hr decant. Soft tannins. Best with food. Complex with leather, coffee, tar, bright red fruits. Paired with spaghetti and meatballs.

Azelia Bricco Fiasco 1996

Opened and decanted.  Initial Impression in the first hour… tight, slow to open. Hints of tar and roses after an hour.  14% alc. Quite dark garnet color with slight bricking at edges.  Tannins seem to be still a bit unyielding.  A bit like a young Burgundy.

2^nd hour … softer and chewier.. fruit is starting to open up. Leather and cherry.  Nose isn't giving up much. 

3^rd hour … earth and subtle sous bois.. still opening up and becoming gradually more approachable… 

4^th hour … finally coming around .. nose is still muted but the palate is blossoming … overall, a more traditional style … 

Based on this experience, the Bricco Fiasco could use several more years in the cellar to reach an optimal drinking window … it is not as approachable as the San Rocco (which is one of my favorites).

Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Rabaja 1997

Initial impression of hedonistic, lush fruit with 14% alc.  Slow-oxygenation in bottle for 3 hours prior to dinner. This is very pinot noir-like.  Earth, cherry and minerals with mellow tannins.  Ruby color with attractive bricking at edges.  Paired with ravioli Bolognese... reminds me of a Corton Bressandes.  Definitely in a peak drinking window.  Saved half the bottle for later...

3 days later: Has gained considerable presence over the past several days (perhaps a glimpse of what is in store with a few more years of age...)  Gorgeous and compelling reflection of Rabaja terroir ... wonderful acidity from the influence of limestone marl substrate.  A bit more modern in style and more fruit forward than the 1997 Albino Rocca Brich Ronchi....
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/02/albino-rocca-barbaresco-vigneto-brich_16.html

Lots of very fine grained sediment toward the end of the bottle.  Ridiculously good.... alas, the second half went way too quickly.  Have a few more of these ...  Not sure how long I can keep from opening them.  

Pinot Noir Wine Dinner

Double-blind tasting dinner held Saturday 1 March 2014, and hosted by Leonard & Jill Taylor.  Thanks to everyone for contributing excellent wines, and thanks to our hosts for a wonderful dinner.

Menu:
Grilled Pork Tenderloin
Golden Potato & Porcini Gratin
Brussels Sprouts salad
Home-made Key Lime Pie (thanks, Joe!)

Whites:

Bruno Giacosa Spumante Extra Brut 2006
My first time for this wine.  I like it.  Deftly executed, very lithe aperitif with minimal effervescence.  Made from pinot noir from Lombardia.    

 

 

Kartauserhof Riesling Achleiten 2007

The Achleiten vineyard is one of my favorites from Wachau.  On this evening, the 2007 from Kartauserhof seemed to be a bit closed down.  Still a good one.

 

Clos D’Agon Blanco 2010

A tasty blend of 45% Roussanne, 35% Viognier, and 20% Marsanne from Peter Sisseck.

 

Reds:

 

Ryan Pisoni Vineyards 1999

Miniscule 119 case production and about as under-the-radar as you can get. WOTN…. Could’ve been a Burgundy.  Gorgeous mellow tart raspberry … smooth as silk tannins with a most alluring mushroom + earth component.  I’d love to be able to find this stunner…

Talley Rosemary’s Vineyard 1999

This is the oldest Rosemary’s I believe that I have had.  Was pleasantly surprised at how well this wine had held up.  Still good-to-go for another year or so.  Well balanced and delightful … two thumbs up.

Vino Bambino 2000

Tied as WOTN (for me, at least) …a dead ringer for a village-level Burgundy.  Stunning aromatics for such a light colored wine (almost rose in color).   One of the very first wines made by Morgan Twain-Peterson… absolutely brilliant.

Rochioli West Block 2002

A personal favorite along with the Ryan Pisoni.  Rochioli never fails to please.  This wine gained momentum over the evening and really showed well.

Beaux Freres Beaux Freres Vineyard 2002

This is a wonderful, contemplative wine paired with food on its own, although it was a bit subdued on this evening...  Very well balanced and attractive.

Ambullneo Vineyards Bulldog Reserve 2004

Delightful blend with majority of the fruit sourced from Solomon Hills vineyard. Plenty of life left in this excellent wine.

Kanzler Estate Sonoma Coast 2005

The most fruit-forward wine of the evening and registering as one of the youngest on everyone’s palate… New World pinot noir personified.  Lovely anise component that is typical of Steve Kanzler’s wines.

Sea Smoke Southing 2006

Always a very beautifully made wine.  Very well balanced and aging very nicely… approachable now.

Tardieu-Laurent Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Speciale 2006

This wine has settled down and entered into its drinking window since I last tasted it two years ago.  The flavor profile has La Crau terroir written all over it.  Reviewer notes indicate it is 100% Grenache, but it seems to me that it has a bit of Syrah or Cinsault in the blend. Michael Tardieu works with Philippe Cambie to produce this wine.
Opened and slow-oxygenated in bottle.  Bigtime garrigue influence on the palate .. very nice.  Blackberry, creosote and hints of anise.  Muted nose at first.  14.5 alc.  Gorgeous translucent ruby color.  A solidly enjoyable CdP, even if it does seem a bit warm on the finish after a couple of hours.
Really chewy texture (in a good way) after a couple of hours when the Grenache opens up.... a bit sweeter fruit character develops.  This wine is in a good place now, and will drink well for several more years.  Paired with ravioli Bolognese.

Badia a Coltibuono Sangioveto 1985

Sadly, this bottle had begun to turn ... a raisin nose and the fruit was pretty much gone... It happens...  Still would like to find a good bottle of this, but 1985 is really pushing the envelope for this wine. 

Have had much better luck with the 1990 and 1995 vintages..
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/02/1990-badia-coltibuono-sangioveto.html
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/01/was-looking-forward-to-trying-this.html

Note the interesting and very simple early version of the 1985 label compared to the 1990 and later vintages...

Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1996

Popped and poured... beautiful Meyer lemon and hazelnut with an extremely attractive minerality and food-friendly, very mellow tartness ... 13.5% alc...
The 1996 vintage of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet premier cru chardonnays are a joy. 
This one opened up over the course of the next 2 hours, divulging its depth and smoothness from age.  Paired with Sunday evening chicken Dijon, lemon-herb risotto and artichoke salad. 
We have enjoyed this wine several times over the past couple of years and its track record of success for an older white Burgundy is admirable.