2003 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo & 2008 Vajra Freisa Kye

Quite a pleasure to have wines from these two Producers served side by side at dinner.

The '03 Emidio Pepe MdA is a fruit forward voluptuous wine with an amazingly rich bombshell of a nose, all reflective of the warm vintage. On its own, it has a very pleasing palate...but it lacks the structure needed to make it truly food friendly. It was slow-o'd for 2 hours prior to dinner. What an amazing, old school cuvee. I love this producer. No reason to hold onto the '03 for a lot longer.  It's ready now IMO. Note: as discussed in a related thread, the date on the cork is when the wine was decanted into a new bottle at the winery prior to being released to the market. 

The '08 Vajra Freisa Kye was punching way above its weight class on this evening with an excellent showing. I haven't had one of these in years. Almost Nebbiolo-esque with very nice stucture. Delightful with food. Stops short of greatness due to lack of complexity (yet perhaps may develop with additional bottle age , or is it just a limitation of this varietal?). It was slow-o'd all day , which likely helped with such a favorable showing at dinner. 

Difficult to pick a favorite. .. 
The Emidio Pepe MdA had more going on with fascinating layers within the rich fruit. 
The Vajra Freisa Kye had the edge paired with food because of its more complete framework. 

1991 and 1994 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley

Delightful showing for these wines. Served as part of a double blind wine tasting of older California cabs where most everyone thought they were Bordeaux. Much of this perspective was influenced by knowledge that the host's cellar is deep in Bordeaux,  though  :) 

The '91 was exquisite (13.6% abv).  An incredible vintage in general for California cabs, this wine is certainly reflective of that greatness. Reminded me of a great Pessac from Bordeaux with classic scorched earth and gunflint component on the nose. Elegant black cherry, cassis, hint of dill and incredibly savory tannins that inform a complex and lengthy finish. About as perfect a drinking window as you can find, if you enjoy older cabs..
I've found that Alexander Valley cabs can sometimes exhibit classic Pessac nose.... Fisher Wedding Vineyard cuvee is another example.

The '94 (13.0% abv) was quite different, being younger and displaying more robust up front fruit and signature dill and cedar. Nice complexity with resolved and slightly dusty tannins , accompanied by a tasty dollop of anise. Tasted next to the '91, it paled in comparison  (for me at least ).  Yet, considered on its own merits, a very enjoyable wine.

Silver Oak cabs are consistently under rated IMO. I've enjoyed even older ones from the mid to late '80's that are beautiful.

As I mentioned,  our host's cellar is deep in Bordeaux (including all the First Growths), Burgundy  (including white and red Grand Cru), and array of beautiful Barolo vintages going back to the '80's.  He is actually the reason why I got into Barolo wines.  Interesting that such a traditional collector would have California cabs represented in his cellar by Silver Oak wines  :) 

1964 Fratelli Minuto Barolo Riserva Speciale and 2004 Piazzo Armando Barbaresco Riserva Nervo Vigna Giaia

Enjoyable juxtaposition of older and newer Nebbiolo. 

The '64 Minuto is a beguiling wine. Seems over the hill at first, and then hits its stride several hours later with dinner. Not a tremendously sophisticated wine by any stretch,  yet quite satisfying for the price and it being 52 years old. Kudos to Chambers Street for sourcing sound provenance.  (It's what they do very well, clearly!)
Faded red fruit, leather and tea. Nice bit of acidity hanging in there makes it extremely food friendly. Lithe, faint nose but with integrity.  Actually preferred over the '04 Barbaresco with the main course.
An unexpected treat  :) 

What's not to like about the '04 vintage in Piemonte?  First time I've tried wine from Piazzo Armando. Not familiar with the Nervo vineyard or Vigna Giaia cuvee ...  In any case, it's drinking nicely. Was purchased at a very modest price on sale. 
Fairly big wine, yet balanced.... bold fruit, precisely framed by fine tannins (just beginning to mellow) and spice. Not overly oaky or too modern in style. Robust aromatics, but not a lot of complexity.  This took over as 2nd fav of the night beside an array of Northern Rhone, CCR, and Sonoma Pinot Noir. 

Paired with:
Grilled pancetta-wrapped figs  (holy smokes - good stuff )
Grilled veal chops
Sauteed spinach 
Mushrooms oreganata 
Prosciutto Mashed Potatoes 

1998 Martinelli Pinot Noir Martinelli Vineyard Reserve

The longevity of this cuvee is always a source of fascination for me. The 1998 Martinelli Vineyard Reserve (14.5% abv) is more balanced and graceful than the 1999 bottling  (15.5% abv). 
Slow-o'd for one hour then full decant at restaurant. Even these older vintages need lots of air to fully show their stuff. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. A bit of fine grained sediment at the end of the bottle.
Lilting florals and soft hints of cinnamon on the nose. 
Classic raspberry, spice, anise and earth. Tannins are sweet and dusty.
Paired perfectly with hushpuppies stuffed with crawfish and rock shrimp in a tasso sauce.
Love this stuff. Managed to find some 1997 and 1996 vintage bottlings, which are shipping in this fall. Will see if they have held up as well as the '98 and '99 vintages...

1990 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses

I think this is a library release. It's in very good shape and widely available in the $50 to $80 range. An incredible bargain for a great vintage. 
Thanks to Mark Scudiery for introducing me to this wine.
Nice floral greeting upon uncorking the bottle. There's some nicely aged fruit here.  Perhaps the limestone influenced terroir of the Les Picasses vineyard. 50 year old vines. 
Double decant back into clean bottle. Modest amount of coarse grained sediment. Slow-o in bottle for about an hour and then full decant at the restaurant.  
Classically aged Cabernet Franc profile ... dark cherry, lead pencil, hints of tobacco and sous bois. Nose is quite alluring with haunting florals. Definitely worth checking out this wine if you enjoy older vintages. I've read that the 1989 bottling is also very good.
Paired with grilled pork chop with bourbon jus, brussels sprouts cooked in pork fat and cider, and a delicious side dish of bone marrow "bread pudding" (a specialty of the house).

2008 Radikon Jakot

Hold for another 3 to 5 years - or - extensively aerate in decanter 
Massive, teeth-clenchingly young at this stage. Popped and poured.  13.5% abv listed. Tastes closer to 15%.  100% Friulano.
Apricot and quince ... huge palate..  subtle florals on the nose and smells hot.. 
I like this wine. It just needs a lot more time. Am a fan of Radikon Ribolla Gialla.

2008 Roccolo Grassi Valpolicella Superiore

This is a big modern Veneto wine, more in the style of Dal Forno rather than Quintarelli. 
Very sexy, luscious blackberry and plum with a rich floral and spice nose. Wears its 14.5% abv well (no appreciable heat), despite ripeness trending almost toward the stewed end of the spectrum.  Oak has integrated and is not obtrusive.  
If you want a voluptuous wine, then this will please. Still have three quarters of the bottle left to try later. Paired with meat ravioli. The palate became somewhat tiring because of the pronounced jamminess in lieu of acidity. Reminded me of some California Rhone style wines that are so alluring but wear thin from an interest level before the end of the meal.
Overall, this wine is worth trying. Pretty good QPR.

2008 Rochioli Pinot Noir West Block

A testament to the greatness of California pinot noir. I consider Rochioli to be among the Grand Cru's from Sonoma. Having enjoyed many of the Rochioli cuvee's through the generosity of friends over the years, I believe that this 2008 West Block may be one of the most beautiful wines wines from this estate.

Popped and poured at the restaurant,  the bouquet leaps from the bottle. As it opened up, it became apparent that this is a special vintage of West Block. Incredibly savory black rasberry fruit, silky texture and wonderfully intriguing spices... (difficult to express the quality of this fruit in comparison to other estates ... it is absolutely exceptional ).  Lush, yet not ponderous. Has  underlying minerality and tension that indicates very solid potential for aging at least another 5 years or more. Right in a sweet spot right now, try one if you have it.

Paired with:
First course of seared foie gras
Second course of Cassoulet Campagnard
Final course of pear clafouti
.... all flawlessly executed by Chef Nicholas Tarnate at Aix en Provence Restaurant 

Tour of Bordeaux-blend and Cabernet Sauvignon based wines

Co-hosted a tasting for our wine group recently. Thanks to Steve Dunn for providing a most excellent 2nd flight. 

1st flight
1999 Fisher Wedding Vineyard  (favorite of the flight) - Sonoma - Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Cabernet Franc (14% abv)
1998 Chateau Gomerie - St. Emilion - Merlot (13% abv)
1998 d'Arenberg Coppermine Road - McLaren Vale - Cabernet Sauvignon  (14% abv)
1997 Concha y Toro Don Melchor - Maipo Valley - Cabernet Sauvignon  (13.5% abv)
1997 Le Macchiole Paleo - Tuscany - mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc (13% abv)
1992 Ferrari-Carano Reserve (2nd favorite of the flight) - Sonoma - Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec (13.5% abv)

All wines showed well in the 1st flight. Fisher Wedding Vineyard is a personal favorite. It is often compared (humbly, though) to the style of La Mission Haut-Brion. The '92 Ferrari Carano was excellent, attesting to the longevity of this cuvee. The '98 Gomerie still had lots of upfront fruit. The '98 Coppermine Road was the most viscous palate-wise reflecting the huge vintage inn Australia that year. 

2nd flight
2006 Dunn Howell Mountain - Napa - Cabernet Sauvignon (13.8% abv)
2006 Leoville Las-Cases - St. Julien - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc (13.5% abv)
2007 Quilceda Creek - Columbia Valley - Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Merlot in this vintage (15.2% abv) 
2008 The Mascot - Napa - Cabernet Sauvignon (2nd favorite of the flight )
2009 Groth Reserve - Napa - Cabernet Sauvignon (favorite of the flight )
2009 Shafer Hillside Select - Napa - Cabernet Sauvignon 

All wines in the 2nd flight showed well. This flight perfectly showcased some of the best of new world and best of old world. The Leoville Las-Cases was nowhere near its prime, showing the most structure. A beautiful wine, but hold for another decade at least. 
My personal favorite of the 2nd flight was the Quilceda Creek.  What a unique wine! Intriguing minerally fruit with a complex finish that included hints of eucalyptus that I particularly enjoy. Quilceda Creek has received some huge ratings from professional critics, which it deserves but unfortunately catapults the price of the wine. 
My 2nd favorite of this flight was the Dunn Howell Mountain. What a wine! The flight was served blind and I would never have guessed an '06 Dunn HM would be so approachable.  Kudos to my co-host who poured this flight. He aerated the wines extensively throughout the day to prepare them to show their best. The '06 Dunn HM is a beautiful balanced wine with impeccable quality of fruit and surprisingly smooth,  integrated tannins at this juncture.  If you have a few bottles, then it is worth trying one now with lots of air. 
The Mascot is made by Will Harlan (Bill's son), comprised of a blend from younger vines that supply Harlan, Bond and Promontory. 
The Shafer Hillside Select was the most controversial wine (for me at least). The Shafer HS has been referred to as a blueberry milkshake by some members of this board. I wouldn't go so far as to describe it as milkshake-like in viscosity,  but it definitely has a thick lushness to it. I have enjoyed much older vintages of Shafer HS that showed more traditionally.  This young version needs a lot more time to settle down. 

All in all, a very fun evening ...

2009 Domaine de Marcoux Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

Even with years of great development ahead of this wine, I couldn't resist trying a bottle. Lush blackberry fruit with subtle creosote. Soft, slightly angular tannins yet well balanced. Somewhat shy nose at the juncture. Sourced from prime parcels in La Crau, Gallimardes and Esquirons lieux-dits. Telltale La Crau signature garrigue is present but will hopefully manifest itself a bit more as the fruit portion of the palate matures. 
Drink now or hold for another 4 to 5 years for tertiary (secondary or tertiary? ?... I get those terms confused..) development. .. Manages its 15% abv well.

2013 Domaine des Baumard Savennières

Lovely pear and apple... alluring hint of bitterness on the finish (like the pit of peach?) that reflects the schistose terroir of this tasty chenin blanc from the Loire ... sourced primarily from the St. Yves vineyard,  I believe. .. 13% abv... 

Visit to Santa Cruz Mountains

Scott Nelson and I visited Big Basin Vineyards and Ridge Montebello on a day trip to Santa Cruz Mountains from Palo Alto.  
Bradley Brown  (owner & winemaker) and Jim La Mar (Sales Manager) provided wonderful hospitality at Big Basin Vineyards. 
I've been a fan of Big Basin pinot noir for several years after discovering them through the Vinous reviews.
The style is terroir-driven and the pinots are sourced from several different vineyards, including Woodruff,  Alfaro and Coastview. Pinots are usually made with a significant percentage of whole clusters. 
The conversation with Bradley was very helpful in understanding the timing of harvest in relation to opitimal ripeness of fruit along with maturation of stems.  Whole cluster doesn't work well if the fruit is left to hang too long. 
We also discussed stylistic differences inherent in Santa Cruz Mountain pinots as compared to Central Coast pinots. 
The estate property at the winery in Boulder Creek is beautiful.  The estate vineyards proximal to the winery are planted to primarily Syrah (rootstock originally sourced from John Alban) and Grenache, with some pinot noir on steep mountain slopes. Soil is sandstone, clay and shale. 
The 2013 Woodruff pinot noir was pretty much closed at this stage, yet quite lithe and minerally. Balanced at 13% abv.
The 2012 Grizzly (Grenache and Syrah) was a bit more open but still has a ways to go for optimal drinking. 
The 2012 Old Corral Syrah was open for business,  exhibiting luscious fruit and aromatics. Mostly Alban rootstock syrah cofermented with Grenache and Viognier.

2006 Martinelli Pinot Noir Moonshine Ranch Vineyard

It's amazing to me how Martinelli can produce a pinot noir in a ripe style with 15% abv, yet without heat affecting the palate of the wine. Must be something to do with the more northerly location of the vineyard in Sonoma (?)...
In any case this '06 version drinks like a nice Pommard.... luscious, nicely aged cherry fruit, allspice and a very intriguing sous bois influence on the finish that contiributes to its expansive complexity... this bottle was really in a nice place for drinking now. 

Enjoyed with dinner at Joe and Katy Kindred's eponymously named restaurant in Davidson NC. 
Calabrian chile spiced oyster appetizer,  Morrocan inspired pork dish and tasty mushroom ravioli. 
Love this restaurant and the wine list is inspired (Katy , a certified Sommelier,  does an amazing job putting together an eclectic list). I mention this because chinato is on drinks list.  I don't remember the producer, but I had to try a glass simply because I have never had chinato.  Interesting stuff... enjoyed the front end, but its the cough syrup finish that takes some getting used to. Not entirely offensive but IMO an acquired taste. 

1970 Giovanni Manzone Barolo

Purchased from Chambers Street. Great QPR. Wish I'd bought more. 1970 is a solid vintage overshadowed by the great 1971 vintage. I don't run across many 1970 Piemonte wines so when I saw this one being offered at a good price, I jumped on it. 

The current Gramolere cru bottling from G. Manzone is sourced from higher altitude parcels which are more tannic in style and long-lived. Not sure where the vineyard source(s) are for this '70 normale bottling but I thought: "characteristically more tannic and higher altitude equals longevity in a good vintage". Plus the provenance seems to be good because when I opened the wine, a beautiful nose of florals sprang forth, which boded well.  The wine was sound with that graceful elegance one looks for in 40+ year old Barolo  :)  

 Fruit still hanging in there with hints of brett that were not off-putting  (and dissipated over the course of the evening).   I've had better bottles from Piemonte's 1971 and 1978 vintages, but this 1970 is a very likeable wine that beautifully complemented grilled bone in pork chops, arancini and shrooms oreganata. 

Lots of sediment. Double decanted back into clean bottle.  This wine didnt need a lot of time to open up, but the gossamer tannins did take on an ethereal sweetness as the evening progressed. Photo captures my "coffee filter press run" process that works well for extracting the portion of the wine with the best flavor without the sediment! 

There was some nice complexity to complement the elegance. Intriguingly delicious so that it was nice to roll it around and appreciate its history unveiled. 

What can I say? ... I enjoy old wines !

As a great counterpoint in age, we popped and poured a 2011 F. Alessandria Gramolere.  Taking Marius' advice, we eschewed decanting and just let it open up in the glass. About an hour later it was drinking beautifully. I love this wine. We've gone through a half case recently and are going back for more. 
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2016/04/2011-fratelli-alessandria-barolo.html?m=1

Clos Erasmus Vertical

Vinous member, Leonard Taylor and his wife, Jill, recently hosted an epic tasting featuring a vertical of the famed Clos Erasmus wines. 

The evening was doubly special in that Clos Erasmus owner/winemaker, Daphne Glorian, and her husband, Eric Solomon, were in attendance, as well as fellow Vinous member, Kelly Walker. 

Daphne was incredibly charming and shared marvelous stories about getting her start in Priorat in the late 1980's. Eric (founder/owner of Charlotte -based importer European Cellars) was in fine form providing unique insight and anecdotes. 

Clos Erasmus is a very limited production cuvee from Priorat that is mostly Grenache with some Syrah. Earlier vintages contain a dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon. It typically sees about 20 months in French oak (60% new).  These are beautiful wines and I've heard them described by the fairer sex as being "orgasmic", which clearly makes this cuvee a solid choice for date night  :) 

I did not take detailed notes, and the wines were served double blind. I do remember thinking that the wines were all comprised of Rhone varietals,  however I picked the first two as being from California (Paso Robles),  the second two as being from Spain (Priorat) and the last two as being from France (CdP). This highlights the different characteristics introduced from aging, I suppose. 

1998 Clos Erasmus 
2004 Clos Erasmus 
2007 Clos Erasmus 
2013 Laurel (2nd wine of Clos Erasmus)
2010 Clos Erasmus 
2013 Clos Erasmus 

My favorite of the flight (and the favorite of the group) was the 2010 Clos Erasmus. The beautifully precise expression of fruit and overall balance amply demonstrated the unique character of this hallowed vintage. 

Bravo to a very special evening!

Summer wines

2015 Kanzler Rose (Pinot Noir)
Wow, what a nose!  Spectacular  :)  True to the varietal, this is a compelling rose of pinot noir. Mouthwateringly delicious fruit and enough acidity to keep it food friendly.  Great QPR.

2013 La Chablisienne Fourchaume 
Nicely serviceable Chablis. Citrus fruit, softer edges that become more delineated with exposure to air, enough minerality to keep things interesting. Elegant and pleasing nose that gains in complexity with time. 
I believe that La Chablisienne is a cooperative  (similar to Produttori? )

Comparing '06 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici and '06 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva

Had the '06 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici a couple of years ago and it was ridiculously good at that time

http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/01/1999-aldo-conterno-colonnello-2000.html?m=1

It has evolved nicely since then with its edges rounding off nicely and exhibiting lush black fruits.  Aglianico's acidity makes it very food friendly and a very attractive nose completes the picture. Highly recommended and drinking well now. 

The Riserva presents an interesting contrast. Leaner, classic profile and lighter in color. Overall, a more traditionally balanced wine and still young. It could benefit from another 3 to 5 years of cellaring to let everything come together.  We did get a nice glimpse of the future after aeration in a decanter for several hours. Delicate florals, black fruit, spice and hints of menthol.

Great to get a chance to compare these two bottlings from the same vintage.

1990 Produttori del Barbaresco

Opened the '90 Produttori several hours ahead of dinner. Double decanted back into clean bottle. Lots of sediment. 

Really nice florals upon opening the bottle and everything was sound.  Enjoyed it over the course of several hours. It would be interesting to understand what the blend from the various vineyards are for the normale. Do they use fruit that has been declassified for single cru bottlings? 

While this will never be a great wine, it was quite satisfying and enjoyable to partake of its charms. Sour cherry (almost Burgundian in nature) with tasty tar accents. Not a lot of complexity but the tannins have melted nicely. 

Before the Barbaresco,  we served an '06 Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia Blanco, which was decanted and left to aerate for an hour or so. Still a youngster, its best years are ahead. Quite bright with nifty salinity. .. tropical honeyed fruit, exotic herbal notes and fascinating texture. Very attrractive petrol notes on the nose. 100% Viura. I love this stuff.

Popped and poured into decanter late in the evening, the '11 Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino is massive at this juncture, although quite drinkable with softer tannins and robust black fruit. Prominent licorice component and a nice balsam spice nose. It will be interesting to see how this evolves over the years. This wine has a lot of stuffing to carry it easily through another decade. 

Lunch with Rob Lloyd

Fellow Vinous member, Rob Lloyd, was in town visiting (along with his lovely wife, Alice, his mother, Patricia, and his father, Bob).  Steve Russo attended as well.

Here are Rob's notes:

Yesterday my family and I had the pleasure to meet Steve and his friend at Restaurant Zebra for lunch and a few bottles of wine. The venue was quite good and the staff did a reasonable job preparing the wines. Meeting up was less about the wines and more about getting to know a fellow board member but we did open some interesting bottles! Steve brought a white Rioja and an 04 Quintarelli which was a real joy to drink - I rarely get the opportunity to try these. I brought a PYCM Embrazees which I posted on before (as did Mark) and a Nuits Saint George which showed rather nicely. All in all a fantastic lunch and a real pleasure to meet yet another friend from the board!

2011 PYCM Embrazees 
Good tension of fruit and minerality and definitely fine to drink now. Agree with Philippe that the 11 whites are good wines across the board. 

2008 Meo Camuzet NSG Murgers

Darkish color, nose had cherries and strawberries with some vanilla and on the palate there was a nice balance of red fruits and some oak sensations as well as turned soil. I felt the wine had muscular tones without being overly ripe. 

2002 Vina Tondonia Blanc Riserva

Very intriguing wine and if tasted blind would have no idea what it was. Color was crisp gold and there was an oxidative sweetness on the nose as well as some honey orange peel alongside a dry Reisling petroleum smell. The palate showed an interesting blend of some mineral characterics with darker tropical flavors such as sliced papaya and mango. A real pleasure to taste an aged white from Rioja!

2004 Quintarelli Rosso Ca' Del Merlo

Double decanted for an hour or so. Dark color and youthful aromas of dried cranberries, dry chocolate, and rosemary herbs. The palate was still very big and powerful. Secondary flavors included a hint of gravel, dried tomatoes and kale with an underlying sweet blackberry character. I assume this unique wine will last for an incredibly long time. 

Here are my notes:

The '08 Méo-Camuzet NSG Murgers held my rapt attention throughout lunch (and was my overall favorite). I thought it was very accessible.  It kept opening up and revealing more depth. Rainier cherry fruit with an ethereal sweetness  (in a good way as opposed to tartness often found in a young red Burgundy), complemented by notes of roses, sandalwood and hint of anise. Loved the nose... lilting, yet still somewhat shy, florals ....
A hauntingly beautiful elegance in this wine. It very much embodied what I love about red Burgundy.  

'02 López de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva  Blanco is mostly Viura with a dollop of Malvasia Riojana.  It spent two hours aerating in a decanter before I brought it to the restaurant. This is a white wine that really benefits from lots of air. I look forward to visiting LdH this fall in Rioja.

Your notes on the '04 Quintarelli Ca del Merlo very much capture the spirit of this wine. While it was very tasty, it still has a ways to go before reaching maturity. I aerated it in a decanter at home for about 3 hours before bringing it to the restaurant . This is is first time I've tried the '04. IMHO, the '03 vintage is more open for business at this point.