Cru Tasting (Nelson's Wines)

First Flight

2017 Scalabrone Tenuta Guado Al Tasso Rosato

2015 Aubert Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard

2016 Tor Torchiana Chardonnay

2015 Kistler Hyde Vineyard Carneros


Second Flight

1985 BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

1986 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

1990 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

1992 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Select

1995 Calon Segur

1995 Pichon-Lalande Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

2003 Sociando Mallet


Third Flight

1989 B. Chave Hermitage

1989 Chapoutier Ermitage "La Pavillion"

1991 Chapoutier Cote Rotie "La Mordoree"

1996 Jaboulet Hermitage "La Chapelle"

1995 Beaucastel CdP

2005 Elio Altare Barolo Vigna Arborina

Decanted for an hour or so. Surprisingly approachable with very supple texture. Captivating cherry palate and dusty ripe tannins, seamlessly interwoven with a finish of goudron and balsamic spices. Nose seems a bit modest, but this richly elegant wine is impossible to put down. Altare is a master of deft use of barrique. 

Two Interpretations of Oregon Pinot Noir

Use of whole cluster is significant differentiator between these two wines. 

The 2015 Antica Terra Ceras is 11% whole cluster. It is incredibly delicious from the start. Lots of minerality (even salinity?) framing the impeccable quality fruit, which comes across as an intriguing red and blue melange. Supple tannins caress the palate. This should age nicely. 

The 2014 Kelley Fox Maresh Red Barn Blocks stands out with 100% whole cluster providing graceful structure and spiciness for high-toned red fruit. Very attractive,  lithe aromatics reflect an overall lightness of being inherent in this winemaker's style. This should age effortlessly over the next 5+ years.

On its own, the Antica Terra Ceras invites sip after sip...very satisfying and hard to put down the glass. 

The Kelley Fox Maresh pairs better with the grilled bone-in pork chops. Its structure and acidity makes it very food friendly. 

2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Selectionnées

13% abv. Early drinking window. Decanted and aerated for several hours. Produced from four select Village parcels in Volnay with average vine age of 53 years.

Very pretty translucent ruby color. Savory mix of florals and sous bois on the nose. 

There is a bit of ethereal magic to this interpretation of Volnay. Intense, yet nimble on the palate. Elegantly tart cherry fruit with a mouthwatering melange of forest floor and spice. Lovely chalky finish.

The Domaine's 1er Cru wines are superb, but this Volnay Vendanges Selectionnées is a soulful wine worth seeking out as well. 

Paired nicely with fresh Rochambeau oysters on the half shell from the southern Chesapeake Bay along with sauteed filet of Black Drum in anchovy / sunflower aillade.

2001 Joh Jos Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese

AP 8
8.0% abv

Mature honeyed citrus / pineapple palate. Rich viscous texture on the palate. Hints of petrol and stone. Delightfully sweet but not overbearing. 

Additional mineral complexity unfolds on the finish with extended aeration. A bit more acidity would offset the richness. A seductive and satisfying 2001 Mosel.

2002 Billecart-Salmon Millésime Brut Cuvée Nicolas François

 12.5% abv
Disgorgement date not shown on bottle

Finely beaded, beautifully mature wine. This is what the 2002 vintage in Champagne is all about.

Irresistible brioche / baked bread nose with hints of wildflower. Maintain proper serving temperature for optimal olfactory experience. 

60% Pinot Noir (from premier cru and grand crus vineyards in Montagne de Reims and Grande Vallée de la Marne) and 40% Chardonnay (from the Côte des Blancs). Overall 20% vinified in oak.

Vinous citrus palate. Lengthy rounded finish with a nice bit of salinity.  Drinks a bit more like nicely aged Blanc de Blanc at this stage.

Quite fruit dominated for a 19 year old Champagne. Should easily hold at peak for another 5 years or so with a lot more potential for additional tertiary development.

Paired nicely with grilled octopus and polenta, followed by whole black sea bass grilled over cherry-wood coals. The wood- fired grill at RockSalt in Charlotte is similar in design to those used at Victor Arguinzoniz' world famous Asador Etxebarri, in the mountains outside of San Sebastián. 

Champagne, Alto Adige and Santa Cruz Mtns

Dinner with friends Cindi, Carol, Brett and Alex afforded a wonderful opportunity to enjoy superb cuisine and wine at RockSalt restaurant.  A lively and fun evening!

2009 Louis Roederer Brut Vintage
Damn, I really enjoy this wine! The mouthwatering vinosity never fails to please. Pear and creamy brioche. Mostly Pinot Noir with Chardonnay supporting.
Wonderful pairing with Rappahannock oysters on the half shell.

2015 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva
Drank few ounces and then stored away for the following evening. Gained quite a bit of presence and viscosity on day two with dinner. White peach and chalk with minerally finish kicking in. Incredibly silky mouthfeel.
Paired beautifully with grilled octopus on a bed of sticky rice, accented by roasted jalapeno honey, seaweed and lemon misto oil.

2014 Varner Pinot Noir Spring Ridge Vineyard Upper Picnic Block
Richly textured Morello cherry, mushroom, sassafras. Very enjoyable swansong interpretation of this vineyard from the Varner Brothers.
Paired deliciously with shrimp & grits with pork belly gravy.

2014 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant

Day one
Tight quince and slightly bitter minerality. Quite complex even young. Strong finish with ginger and honey notes. A classic Loire Chenin Blanc in the making. Needs another 3 to 5 years to hit peak drinking window. 

Day four 
Finished the bottle paired with a shrimp casserole. Wow! This wine really grabs your attention now with a glimpse of its lovely future. More open and giving with pear and brilliant, crystalline minerality on display. Long finish with deliciously herbal body/texture/mouthfeel that comes only from the great Loire Chenin Blancs. 

2006 Elio Altare Larigi

14.5% abv. 100% Barbera. Produced from 50 year old estate vines.

Exceptional balance and beautiful tertiary complexity.  Delicious black fruit and spice, but the star of the show that makes everything fall into place is the elegant acidity. Tannins have melted, and this wonderful acidity makes the other red wines just recede into background when paired with homemade pizzas. 

The most enjoyable Barbera I've ever had. Shows the great aging potential of the varietal. Bravo.

2012 Cédric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Presle

Disgorged April 2016. Zero dosage. Raised in stainless steel (no wood used at all). 

Remarkable out of the gate. A beautiful, terroir-driven blanc de noirs (100% pinot noir). Beautifully cut palate of orchard fruit complemented by mouthwatering salinity and super-refined minerality. Subtle nose. 

Very fine bead that dissipates quickly, with small red fruit dancing across your tongue. With aeration, hints of anise on the finish. 

Delicious. This stuff will spoil you. 

Paired nicely with an Asian-inspired preparation of a shrimp and scallop dish.

2001 Pegau, 2006 P. Scavino Cannubi, 2006 Mastroberardino Taurasi Riserva

2001 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Réservée 
Double decanted. Modest amount of fine grained sediment. Aerated in decanter for 90 minutes or so before pouring back into clean bottle.

Beautifully florals leaping from the bottle upon pulling the cork bode well. Over the course of the evening, the wine gained presence in both palate and nose. 
This 2001 does indeed rival the magnificent 2004 we enjoyed several weeks ago. A bit more ethereal and elegant, thanks to the additional bottle age.

Mostly Grenache with some Syrah and Mourvedre as well as 13 other permitted grape varieties. Laurence Feraud produces some of the most ageworthy, complex wines in the southern Rhone. 

Alluring lavender nose with hints of spice. Mouthwatering black cherry fruit, anise and game with signature black tea and garrigue. Long and complex finish that makes the dream of perfectly aged Chateauneuf-du-Pape a reality.
Excellent info on vineyards and terroir here:
http://www.pegau.com/crbst_15_en.html



A 2006 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi followed the Pegau. Aerated for a couple of hours in decanter, it shows the classicism of the vintage.. This settled down nicely over the evening. Very fine tannins that have started to show early hints of sweetness. 

Indeed, the perfumed nose is exemplary. Silky, refined palate of black fruit in balance with hints of tar, roses and cassis. A very well rounded and complete wine that will continue to evolve nicely. 

Vineyards are situated on a southeastern exposure, just upslope from the Bartolo Mascarello holdings. I always enjoy Paolo Scavino wines.





What could possibly follow these two wonderful wines and keep the momentum going? The 2006 Mastroberardino Taurasi Riserva is a superb choice. 

While being at a slight disadvantage in terms of pop and pour, this evolved spectacularly over several hours. Damn, I love this Riserva vintage. It is one of the most complete and satisfying wines of any genre for me.

The first thing that comes to mind when describing this wine is an aura of burgundian elegance. 

Deceptively light bodied when opened, it slowly reveals an inner beauty of quality red fruit coupled with sophisticated balance of acidity and underlying minerality. 

Gaining serious, noble presence over the evening, this is a wine that you can't put down. Perfectly balanced dusty tar and licorice on the mid-palate, give way to gossamer accents of tobacco and Taurasian sottobosco. 



The wines were enjoyed with a first course Arancini followed by main course of grilled bone-in Berkshire pork chops, broccoli rabe with roasted garlic, mashed potatoes with proscuitto and garlic, and a roasted beet salad. 

NV Champagne Jacquesson Cuvée No. 740 Extra-Brut

Popped and poured. 12% abv. Low 1.5 g/l dosage. May 2017 disgorgement.

First foray with this producer, and I like what they are doing. 

Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet have implemented an intriguing strategic shift to more of a vintage specific reflection of terroir, rather than a focus on consistency of "house" style.

Cuvee No. 740 is comprised of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir from the excellent 2012 base vintage (blended with 20% reserve wine from previous vintages). Vineyard sources are a combination of Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards in Aÿ, Dizy, Hautvillers, Avize and Oiry. 

Malolactic fermentation, with aging for 12 months in neutral oak vats (with some bâtonnage).

Definitely approachable now, with an incredibly delicious nose of flowers and yeasty bread. Wow!!
 :) 

Elegantly balanced palate of lemon follwed by green apple with mellow salinity. Finish is not terribly complex (may improve with further cellaring?). The last glass reminded me of a very nice Chablis.

John Gilman published an excellent, extensive treatise on Jacquesson...

Paired with sauteed crab cakes with remoulade, followed by marinated scallops and shrimp cooked over wood-fired grill. 

Two Oregon Pinots

2014 Kelley Fox Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard Red Barn Blocks (Dundee Hills)

13.6% abv
100% whole cluster. Minimal sediment. Approachable now. Should develop well over the next decade.

Only 100 cases produced from this special block planted to old vine Wädenswil and Pommard.

Translucent ruby color. Palate of savory bright red berry, anise, sandalwood, forest floor and fine minerality. Highly intriguing, lithe nose of spice and florals.

A very unique and enjoyable Oregon Pinot Noir.

-------------------------------------------

2007 Bryce Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge)
13.8 abv, 375 cases produced. 4 acre vineyard. 1.55 tons per acre for the 2007 vintage.

Planted in 1999 to Wädenswill, Dijon 115 and Pommard by Bryce and Marcia Bagnall.
Produced under the Bagnall's Bryce Vineyard label from 2002 to 2008, with Claude Dugat as their stylistic inspiration. 

Sadly, Bryce passed away in 2006 at only 46 years of age. Marcia still owns the vineyard, while (beginning in 2009) Ken Wright carries on the tradition by managing the Bryce vineyard and producing the wine under his label.

Dark color with palate of black cherry and cassis. A mellow degree of tartness balances the robust fruit. Reticent florals on the nose with hints of earth. This wine took many hours to open up fully and reveal itself. It has more gravitas at this stage than the lighter-bodied Kelley Fox wine. A fun comparison between two Oregon pinot noirs.

2009 Louis Roederer Brut Vintage

Our go-to Champagne, the 2009 Brut Vintage is deliciously approachable now.

Popped and poured at dinner. Opened up beautifully over a couple of hours.

70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay sourced from Montagne de Reims. No malolactic fermentation. 18% of the wine is vinified in oak casks.

Rich, honeyed palate... a voluptuous attack of citrus, currant and hazelnut with enough salinity to keep the whole picture in savory balance. I love the complexity that pinot noir brings to a good champagne.

Delightful nose of white flowers and mellow toast.

Paired perfectly with potato-flour fried shrimp drizzled with a sauce of guajillo chili-infused sesame oil and mayonnaise.

The 2009 Brut Vintage bottling was aged for 4 years in the cellars and rested for a minimum of 6 months after disgorgement. Dosage is 9 g/l.

Here is a very informative article on the 2009 Roederer Vins Claires:
https://www.vinous.com/articles/roederer-s-2009-vins-claires-jul-2010

The Chardonnay for the 2009 Brut Vintage was sourced from Vertus and from Chouilly.

The Pinot Noir for the 2009 Brut Vintage was sourced mainly from Aÿ and from Hautvillers. These Marne Valley sites are north-facing, as Roederer feels that this orientation helps to deliver freshness and minerality in Pinot Noir.  Additional Pinot Noir was sourced Verzy for the 2009 Brut Vintage. 

2014 Varner Pinot Noir Spring Ridge Vineyard Three Blocks (Santa Cruz Mtns)

Double decanted and aerated for an hour or so prior to dinner. Minimal sediment. 

Sourced from Picnic Block, Upper Picnic Block and Hidden Block. Demonstrates masterful blending to achieve delicious results.

Velvet red cherry fruit, subtle tartness, savory sottobosco. Nose continues to open up throughout the evening... an irresistible melange of mildly piquant spice, tobacco and violets.

Accompanied by pork shoulder marinated in Achiote paste, oranges and spices. Slow cooked in the oven, garnished with pickled onions and served with rice. 

1998 Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Rocche

Contributor Leonard Taylor reports on this beauty:

14.5% abv. Decanted and let breathe for 30 minutes. Minimal sediment.

"One of the best Barolo's I have ever tasted.  The nose on this was unreal.  A really big wine with jammy cherry, old leather, smoke, integrated soft tannins.  I am not a huge Barolo fan, but I loved this.  Parker called the '97 a "freak" as far as classic barolo goes and I would say that about this '98 as well.  We bought this at a wine shop in La Morra fifteen years ago when we went there with friends and it has been cellared perfectly since then."

Vineyard source is Rocche dell'Annunziata, one of the true "grand cru" vineyards in Piemonte. Rocche dell'Annunziata is just to the east-southeast of the town of La Morra.
The attached map shows A. Oberto's vines in Rocche are situated at the crest , just next to the Bartolo Mascarello plot and the Paolo Scavino plot.

Galloni's notes ...
"A site that yields Barolos of finesse, Rocche dell'Annunziata is known for its striking, floral perfume (violets, roses), sweet spices, dark red fruit and silky tannins. These are gracious, feminine Barolos that tend to open up relatively early, but also age with grace. Rocche dell'Annunziata showcases the refined side of Barolo."

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken

10.5% abv. Pop and pour. 

Elegantly rich flavor at modest alcohol level... love the master artistry from Erich and Johannes Weber. Sourced from 60+ year old vines. AP #1 ( known as Mutter Ana, Meyer Sidney cask).

This is a very substantial dry Riesling. Teethclenchingly young at this stage. Better in 5 years, I would expect, with a very long life ahead. Mellows slightly over a couple of hours in the glass, but maintains a clearly defined structure. 

Pear and lemon front end giving way to pithy blood orange on the saline framed finish. Herbal nose with slight hints of petrol that will manifest over time.

Being a Mosel novice, I typically gravitate toward sweeter Rieslings but this trocken is an education in the complex elegance of the dry wines from Hofgut Falkenstein. 

2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune Les Aigrots

13% abv. Double decanted and let breathe for a couple of hours prior to dinner. Minimal sediment. Translucent ruby color. High-toned Morello cherry fruit complemented by mushroom and sous bois character. 
Just entering prime drinking window. Smooth palate with mouth watering acidity and gossamer tannins.
Subtle florals and spice on the nose. 
Paired nicely with grilled marinated sashimi tuna steaks, lemon risotto and pear broccoli salad.
All in all, a very pleasing wine.

About Beaune Les Aigrots cuvee...

Size: 0.66 ha (1.63 ac)

Variety: Pinot Noir

Vine Age: Planted in 1949, 1964, 2012 in

Terroir: Clay/limestone gravelly soil with red clay

Viticulture: Certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Demeter)

Vinification: 100% de-stemmed, whole grape vinification, indigenous yeasts, 15% new oak, unfined, unfiltered.

Les Aigrots is a Premier Cru vineyard located in the southern part of the Beaunecommune, within the Burgundy wine region. Vines stretch up the gentle slope of the Cote d'Or, where the terroir gives excellent expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Both red and white Les Aigrots Premier Cru wines are lush and full bodied.

The vineyard lies adjacent to Beaune's more famous Clos des Mouches vineyard, and a little way south of the equally well-regarded Les Teurons and Les GrevesPremier Cru climats. Les Aigrots is on the edge of the Montagne-Saint-Desire hill, giving it an exposure that is almost due east. The vines are in the direct path of the morning sun on this slope, which allows the vines to reach optimum ripeness in the cool Burgundian climate.

The limestone-dominant soils here are also important to the terroir, and are made up of sand and clay with some stones. This offers excellent drainage, meaning that vines do not become waterlogged, and instead have to reach deeply into the ground to find hydration. Vigor and yields are lessened, and the vines instead produce small, concentrated berries that make balanced, richly flavored wines.

Les Aigrots is named for the thorny holly bushes that were once the bane of vineyard workers in this 50-acre (20-ha) site. The vineyard is one of many in the area partly owned by the charitable organization Hospices de Beaune.

Pegau and Vaudieu

Enjoyed these over the course of an evening.  Paired with grilled bone-in veal chops, Parmigiana & proscuitto mashed potatoes,  sauteed spinach with roasted garlic.

Pegau Vineyards:
La Crau... sandy soil
Les Escondudes.. stoney soil
Mont Pertuis .. iron rich red soil, stones and sand...imparts anise component to the wine?

2004 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee
A truly wow wine. At peak with lovely synergy between complex palate and stunning nose. Laurence Feraud is clearly a master at using all of the permitted varietals. Red and blue fruit with a fascinating black tea component and signature garrigue. 

2005 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee
Delightful wine, but not as beautifully complex as the 2004.  Nice plum component evident on the palate (perhaps more Mourvedre in the blend?).  Black fruit with hints of tobacco.

2015 Chateau de Vaudieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape L'Avenue
All Grenache sourced from the Vaudieu lieu-dit, a small plot of vines next to Rayas. Only 300 cases produced. 
A nice, young counterpoint to the Pegau. Finely structured with no hard edges. Beautiful black fruit, satiny tannins. Just lacking in complexity because of its youth. Looking forward to trying this again in a few years.

Clairette

Based on insight from Josh Raynolds, we've recently been exploring Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc wines made with a significant percentage of Clairette.  This unique varietal provides a bit more freshness and lift to the blend... adding welcome acidity for food friendliness and interesting notes of pear or apple.

2013 Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (55% Grenache Blanc, 20% Clairette, 10% Roussanne, 10% Bourboulenc, 5% Picpoul). Aged entirely in stainless steel tanks. Peak drinking window. Gorgeous fruit forward nose.  Vibrant apple and pear with a smoky minerality. Love this.

2016 Domaine de Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Le Crau (40% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Bourboulenc, 15% Roussanne). Younger and more finessed. More of an herbal grassiness on the nose. Subtle pear and lime with earthy minerality.  Nice acidity.  I like the Mont Redon better, but need to see how this shows in a few years ...