Our wine group got together recently at The Oak Steakhouse in Charlotte. A relatively new addition to the dining scene, their method of charring the steaks over a wood fire is phenomenal. The service is excellent.
The theme was old world and new world Rhone style wines. The evening started off with a Bollinger Champange and a 2012 Zind-Humbrecht (although I didnt get the details or photos).
1983 Jean-Loius Chave Hermitage Blanc
A beauty of a wine in its sunset years. Opened up nicely over the course of the evening. I kept going back to it, finding its elegantly fading flavors fascinating... very light nose with a hint of petrol... minerally quince and honey palate... stone fruit pit with lovely bitterness. I don't get a chance to drink Marsanne much, so this was a great experience.
2015 Sine Qua Non Entre Chien et Loup
(Approximate translation " between dog and wolf" ... the label art will provide context).
This somewhat of a mad scientist approach by Krankl with his whites has yielded stunning results. Comprised of 44% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 8% Petit Manseng, 8% Viognier from the Bien Nacido, Cumulus (Estate) and Eleven Confessions (Estate) Vineyards. Raised in 19% concrete eggs, 20% stainless steel, 20% used barrels and 41% new French oak. This was opened to breathe for a couple of hours prior to dinner. Kaleidoscopic is the first thing that comes to mind. The various flavors come in subtle yet precise waves, each nuance a delightful surprise, with the components melding as a whole on an orchestral finish. The Roussanne provides a clear Rhone-style inclination on the palate. I like it. Clearly, Krankl has put a lot of time in to come up with this assemblage, and it works marvelously. The man is making some of the best wines of his career, IMO.
A beauty of a wine in its sunset years. Opened up nicely over the course of the evening. I kept going back to it, finding its elegantly fading flavors fascinating... very light nose with a hint of petrol... minerally quince and honey palate... stone fruit pit with lovely bitterness. I don't get a chance to drink Marsanne much, so this was a great experience.
2015 Sine Qua Non Entre Chien et Loup
(Approximate translation " between dog and wolf" ... the label art will provide context).
This somewhat of a mad scientist approach by Krankl with his whites has yielded stunning results. Comprised of 44% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 8% Petit Manseng, 8% Viognier from the Bien Nacido, Cumulus (Estate) and Eleven Confessions (Estate) Vineyards. Raised in 19% concrete eggs, 20% stainless steel, 20% used barrels and 41% new French oak. This was opened to breathe for a couple of hours prior to dinner. Kaleidoscopic is the first thing that comes to mind. The various flavors come in subtle yet precise waves, each nuance a delightful surprise, with the components melding as a whole on an orchestral finish. The Roussanne provides a clear Rhone-style inclination on the palate. I like it. Clearly, Krankl has put a lot of time in to come up with this assemblage, and it works marvelously. The man is making some of the best wines of his career, IMO.
1990 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle
A reference point wine for northern Rhone, often compared to the hallowed 1961. Showing quite young for its age. Timeless La Chapelle pedigree of medium bodied inky black fruit, cassis, mineral, smoke and a wonderful hint of briary anise on the finish. Burgundian in style compared to many of the more massive style offerings of today. Beguiling in its depth with elegance galore and purity of fruit. It actually reminded me a bit in style of Burlotto's Monvigliero efforts..
1999 Chapoutier Ermitage le Pavillon
Inky black, minerally fruit on a more massive, yet very attractive scale. Meaty, with olive nuance... very tasty, yet next to the 1990 La Chapelle, one gets the sense that it would be better in another 10 years. A concentrated dose of Hermitage at this stage, crafted with evident care, being a pure reflection of this noble varietal.
2002 Pax Cellars Syrah Pangea
Limited production comprised of 56 cases of magnums (and the bottles have gorgeous etched labels). I have always enjoyed this cuvee. Whole cluster aged in 500 litre puncheons for 36 months. Drinking smoothly with burnished tannins and in its peak window (unlike the '03 Pangea which is still young). Alluringly pure blackberry and cassis with hints of roasted meat. On this evening, the '02 Pangea is the closest in stage of development to the '90 La Chapelle, albeit both demonstrating different interpretations of Syrah.
2003 Courbis Cornas La Sabarotte
This has aged nicely into a medium-bodied Burgundian styled Cornas. Blackberry, truffle and graphite. Very food friendly and elegant. I like this producer.
2012 Sine Qua Non Syrah Touche
A creative blend of 93% Syrah, 5% Petite Sirah and 2% Viognier from the Estate's Eleven Confessions Vineyard (Sta. Rita Hills). Raised for 40 months in 78% new French oak.
This one sneaks up on you. Probably the most impressive wine I've ever had from SQN. Balanced and not at all over the top. Graceful upon entry, this beauty ensnares you, slowly revealing layer upon layer of black fruit, dusty tannins, a bit of well placed spicy nuance from the oak, cassis and tapenade. A truly riveting, kaleidoscopic (there's that word again) symphony that is quite surprising for being this young of a vintage. Maybe it has something to do with the extended barrel aging.
My favorite wines of the evening were the '90 La Chapelle, the '02 Pangea, and the '12 SQN Touche, for different reasons. The La Chapelle is the classic, the Pangea captures the heart of new world syrah, and the SQN Touche is just in a class of its own in terms of unique, captivating style.
No comments:
Post a Comment