Pages

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Castellare I Sodi di San Niccolo Vino da Tavola 2001

Day 1 - Slow oxygenated in bottle for 2 hours. 13.5 alc. 85% Sangioveto, 15% Malvasia Nera aged 24 months in French oak (50% new).  Red currant with some herbaceous and fennel accents. Ruby with slight brick edges. Nice piquancy on the finish. The Malvasia Nera provides more of an earthy component.  A weightier style that lacks sangiovese's sweetness of fruit often found in neighboring Chianti Classico. Very muted nose.  Overall impression is that this wine is not near to giving its all yet.  Approachable now, but better to wait another 2 to 3 years.

Day 3 - Keeping in mind that this is my first experience with a blend of Sangioveto & Malvasia Nera, the earthiness calls for food to complement the wine and bring out its true character. Delightful with wild mushroom agnolotti. The Malvasia Nera seems to lend an interesting graphite component as well (similar to Malbec with a Bordeaux blend?).  I actually prefer a more traditional blend of sangiovese and canaiolo that is typical in Chianti Classico.

Chateau de Saint Cosme Cote Rotie 2003

Popped and poured, 13.5% alc., first impression is Wow!  Very fine blackberry fruit with olive and coffee notes that make this an extremely alluring wine. Excellent acidity and tartness rendering it incredibly food friendly. Just on the cusp of its drinking window... it wouldn't hurt to wait a year or so...I am curious to find out if this vintage was made with whole cluster (which is done with later vintages).  

4 hours later... the aromatics are really kicking in with violets and lavender... I would be willing to bet that this vintage incorporates a bit of Viognier.  Delightful, classic Northern Rhone profile....
A blend of low-yield fruit from Les Roziers, Les Grandes Places, Viaillere and Champin vineyards.  Aged quite deftly in 100% new oak ... there is no negative impact from the new oak as the fruit and terroir shine through here.  Louis Barruol is one of my favorite Rhone producers.  Two hearty thumbs up...

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Dehlinger Pinot Noir Goldridge Vineyard 2002

Popped and poured. 14.6% alc. Enjoyed this with grilled tuna (alongside the Kalin and Brewer Clifton) http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/03/kalin-cellars-chardonnay-cuvee-ld-1995.html
Day 1 - A solidly enjoyable pinot noir ... drink up now.  Mild floral aromatics with palate of sweet cherry ... very nice sous bois component is what really makes this wine.  This is not a big wine like the Estate bottling (perhaps due to use of some whole clusters in the Estate bottling).
Day 3 - Forest floor component continues to develop along with spices and the fruit is hanging in nicely with muted acidity.  Good balance but not a lot of depth.  Still a delightful if not great wine.  Just right with the grilled tuna on Day 1 and Chicken Dijon on Day 3.

Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvee LD 1995 and Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Mount Carmel Vineyard 2004

Two quite different styles of wine with interesting stories.  
The Kalin (Russian River):
Kalin white wines are clearly cut from long-lived cloth.... amazing actually for California chardonnay.   This Cuvee LD has a moderate alcohol level of 13.8%.  
Day 1 - popped and poured ... clear, light gold color....earthy funk on the nose that dissipated over the course of the first hour, being replacing by subtle citrus fruit aromatics.  Palate is mellow marmalade fruit with a hint of butterscotch.  Crisp but lacking in substantial minerality that I enjoy so much in chardonnay from Burgundy (perhaps an unfair comparison). Paired well with fresh steamed shrimp followed by grilled tuna.
Day 3 - Aromatics have amped up quite a bit, and there seems to be more mineral presence than before.  Nose is quite tropical (a bit of pineapple?), and there is an overall sweetness to the fruit that wasn't there on day 1 ... I would swear there is some semillon at play here... overall an amazing wine for the price (around $30) ... drinking a bit of history ... this wine has an interesting story to tell.

The Brewer Clifton (Santa Ynez):
Day 1 - popped and poured alongside the Kalin.  14.9% alc.  Darker gold color.  Was expecting more from this wine based on previous experience with delicious (albeit younger) Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay.  Parker updated his notes on this wine in Nov 2013 stating that it is a beauty with another decade of drinking.  My primary impression of this wine is that the fruit has faded somewhat, leaving behind an oaky framework. Hollow mid-palate and lacking in complexity compared to the Kalin.  Opened up a bit over the next couple of hours and the fruit gained a bit of momentum.
Day 3 - While the Kalin has continued to evolve, the Brewer-Clifton has plateaued.  Primary impression is still a wine where the fruit is past peak leaving behind a too much oak. Still tasty, though, with the grilled tuna.

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigneto Loreto 1996

This beauty was open for business right out of the gate.  Wow, talk about gorgeous purple fruit!  Knew I needed to find more of this right away.  My favorite of the Albino Rocca Barbaresco's to date.  Voluptuous, but will appeal to both modern and traditional tastes because of its transparency to terroir.
Opened this for slow-o in bottle.  Served at dinner a couple of hours later with grilled filet mignon, sauteed mushrooms, garlic-herb risotto and artichoke salad.
Grand-niece was visiting with her boyfriend on spring break from college.  Fascinating to watch these two young people's eyes light up when they realized what they were drinking.  
The Loreto went pretty quickly so we popped and decanted a 1997 Bruno Rocca Rabaja... Hard to choose which one was the favorite.  The Loreto had a more classic profile and definitely has many more years of life ahead.  The Rabaja is at its peak and is so seductive right now.... here are notes from previous review
 http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/03/bruno-rocca-barbaresco-rabaja-1997.html

Sunday, March 16, 2014

Quintarelli Ca' del Merlo Rosso 2000

A memorable wine.  Popped and poured with plan for slow-oxygenation for the evening.  Drank this beauty over the course of 7 hours.

15% alc.  Marvelous out of the gate ... Not quite like anything I have had before.  Hard to really describe (for me)... better to just get some and taste it. 

Palate is red currant, spice and mineral with beautiful tension between acidity and fruit that lends a fascination to the wine ... nose is closed at first with a slight funk that dissipated over the first hour.

Over the course of the next 4 hours the wine gained serious presence ... one of those wines that has amazing depth... ... really opening up with floral aromatics and a bit of creosote.  

After almost 7 hours, it was really taking off.  I have no doubt that this wine would be amazing on day 2,3 and beyond... alas, couldn't resist finishing off the bottle.

Vineyards are mixed limestone and basalt soils. 

Varietals are 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina, Sangiovese...

- Grapes are pressed immediately after harvest
- After 3 to 4 days of maceration, primary fermentation starts with indigenous yeasts
- Wine is racked and then sits until February
- Wine is racked onto the lees of the Amarone which starts a second alcoholic fermentation (ripasso)
- After 2ndary fermentation, the wine is racked into large Slavonian oak barrels for seven years

I believe that Merlo translates to "Blackbird" ...

Paired with wild mushroom agnolotti for dinner, followed by cheese course (Asiago, Parmesan Reggiano) with fruit (fresh mango) and a bit of dark chocolate with espresso later in the evening.

Sunday, March 9, 2014

Clarendon Hills Syrah Hickinbotham 2003

From Steve Russo: An unbelievably smokey blackberry and mineral dominated wine with just a touch of sweetness on the finish.  

Terredora Taurasi Pago dei Fusi 2004

From Leonard... 
This wine is in a good place. A 4 hr decant. Soft tannins. Best with food. Complex with leather, coffee, tar, bright red fruits. Paired with spaghetti and meatballs.

Azelia Bricco Fiasco 1996

Opened and decanted.  Initial Impression in the first hour… tight, slow to open. Hints of tar and roses after an hour.  14% alc. Quite dark garnet color with slight bricking at edges.  Tannins seem to be still a bit unyielding.  A bit like a young Burgundy.
2nd hour … softer and chewier.. fruit is starting to open up. Leather and cherry.  Nose isn't giving up much. 
3rd hour … earth and subtle sous bois.. still opening up and becoming gradually more approachable… 
4th hour … finally coming around .. nose is still muted but the palate is blossoming … overall, a more traditional style … 
Based on this experience, the Bricco Fiasco could use several more years in the cellar to reach an optimal drinking window … it is not as approachable as the San Rocco (which is one of my favorites).

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Rabaja 1997

Initial impression of hedonistic, lush fruit with 14% alc.  Slow-oxygenation in bottle for 3 hours prior to dinner. This is very pinot noir-like.  Earth, cherry and minerals with mellow tannins.  Ruby color with attractive bricking at edges.  Paired with ravioli Bolognese... reminds me of a Corton Bressandes.  Definitely in a peak drinking window.  Saved half the bottle for later...
3 days later: Has gained considerable presence over the past several days (perhaps a glimpse of what is in store with a few more years of age...)  Gorgeous and compelling reflection of Rabaja terroir ... wonderful acidity from the influence of limestone marl substrate.  A bit more modern in style and more fruit forward than the 1997 Albino Rocca Brich Ronchi....
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/02/albino-rocca-barbaresco-vigneto-brich_16.html
Lots of very fine grained sediment toward the end of the bottle.  Ridiculously good.... alas, the second half went way too quickly.  Have a few more of these ...  Not sure how long I can keep from opening them.  

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Pinot Noir Wine Dinner

Double-blind tasting dinner held Saturday 1 March 2014, and hosted by Leonard & Jill Taylor.  Thanks to everyone for contributing excellent wines, and thanks to our hosts for a wonderful dinner.

Menu:
Grilled Pork Tenderloin
Golden Potato & Porcini Gratin
Brussels Sprouts salad
Home-made Key Lime Pie (thanks, Joe!)

Whites:


Bruno Giacosa Spumante Extra Brut 2006
My first time for this wine.  I like it.  Deftly executed, very lithe aperitif with minimal effervescence.  Made from pinot noir from Lombardia.   
 

 
 
Kartauserhof Riesling Achleiten 2007
The Achleiten vineyard is one of my favorites from Wachau.  On this evening, the 2007 from Kartauserhof seemed to be a bit closed down.  Still a good one.


 

Clos D’Agon Blanco 2010
A tasty blend of 45% Roussanne, 35% Viognier, and 20% Marsanne from Peter Sisseck.
 
Reds:
 

Ryan Pisoni Vineyards 1999
Miniscule 119 case production and about as under-the-radar as you can get. WOTN…. Could’ve been a Burgundy.  Gorgeous mellow tart raspberry … smooth as silk tannins with a most alluring mushroom + earth component.  I’d love to be able to find this stunner…
Talley Rosemary’s Vineyard 1999
This is the oldest Rosemary’s I believe that I have had.  Was pleasantly surprised at how well this wine had held up.  Still good-to-go for another year or so.  Well balanced and delightful … two thumbs up.

Vino Bambino 2000
Tied as WOTN (for me, at least) …a dead ringer for a village-level Burgundy.  Stunning aromatics for such a light colored wine (almost rose in color).   One of the very first wines made by Morgan Twain-Peterson… absolutely brilliant.

Rochioli West Block 2002
A personal favorite along with the Ryan Pisoni.  Rochioli never fails to please.  This wine gained momentum over the evening and really showed well.
Beaux Freres Beaux Freres Vineyard 2002
This is a wonderful, contemplative wine paired with food on its own, although it was a bit subdued on this evening...  Very well balanced and attractive.


Ambullneo Vineyards Bulldog Reserve 2004
Delightful blend with majority of the fruit sourced from Solomon Hills vineyard. Plenty of life left in this excellent wine.
Kanzler Estate Sonoma Coast 2005
The most fruit-forward wine of the evening and registering as one of the youngest on everyone’s palate… New World pinot noir personified.  Lovely anise component that is typical of Steve Kanzler’s wines.
Sea Smoke Southing 2006
Always a very beautifully made wine.  Very well balanced and aging very nicely… approachable now.