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Sunday, March 23, 2014

Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvee LD 1995 and Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Mount Carmel Vineyard 2004

Two quite different styles of wine with interesting stories.  
The Kalin (Russian River):
Kalin white wines are clearly cut from long-lived cloth.... amazing actually for California chardonnay.   This Cuvee LD has a moderate alcohol level of 13.8%.  
Day 1 - popped and poured ... clear, light gold color....earthy funk on the nose that dissipated over the course of the first hour, being replacing by subtle citrus fruit aromatics.  Palate is mellow marmalade fruit with a hint of butterscotch.  Crisp but lacking in substantial minerality that I enjoy so much in chardonnay from Burgundy (perhaps an unfair comparison). Paired well with fresh steamed shrimp followed by grilled tuna.
Day 3 - Aromatics have amped up quite a bit, and there seems to be more mineral presence than before.  Nose is quite tropical (a bit of pineapple?), and there is an overall sweetness to the fruit that wasn't there on day 1 ... I would swear there is some semillon at play here... overall an amazing wine for the price (around $30) ... drinking a bit of history ... this wine has an interesting story to tell.

The Brewer Clifton (Santa Ynez):
Day 1 - popped and poured alongside the Kalin.  14.9% alc.  Darker gold color.  Was expecting more from this wine based on previous experience with delicious (albeit younger) Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay.  Parker updated his notes on this wine in Nov 2013 stating that it is a beauty with another decade of drinking.  My primary impression of this wine is that the fruit has faded somewhat, leaving behind an oaky framework. Hollow mid-palate and lacking in complexity compared to the Kalin.  Opened up a bit over the next couple of hours and the fruit gained a bit of momentum.
Day 3 - While the Kalin has continued to evolve, the Brewer-Clifton has plateaued.  Primary impression is still a wine where the fruit is past peak leaving behind a too much oak. Still tasty, though, with the grilled tuna.

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