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Thursday, July 3, 2014

Southern Rhone Retrospective 2001 - 2007


We had the pleasure of hosting two of our favorite nephews who were visiting us from NYC and Omaha last week. One evening we decided to get into some Southern Rhones with dinner, which provided an interesting opportunity to compare & contrast styles and vintages.

The 2001 Lesec Marquis Tonneaux is a perennial favorite of mine. A nice wine at a very reasonable price.   The '01 is classic CdP with relatively modest 14% alcohol.  It is still in a good place for drinking but there is probably not a lot to be gained from further cellaring.  Well-rounded fruit, sous bois and light creosote.  About 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvedre which gives it a kiss of sweetness that I especially enjoy in well aged southern Rhones. The tannins have really mellowed over the years and provide a nice easy going structure at this juncture. 

The 2003 Sabon Prestige benefits from longer aeration to open up.  Exhibiting a delightful CdP flavor profile, the most alluring aspect is the tasty tar component that serves as a foil for the fruit. This wine could benefit from a couple of additional years of bottle age.  14.5% alcohol ... mostly Grenache with some Syrah and Mourvedre. 

The 2004 Janasse Chaupin (from magnum) is amazing.  I have been following the development of this wine in magnum for while now.  This is my last of six magnums and I am really sorry to see it go.  The wine is in a great place now, and will stay in a peak window of drinkability for at least another 5 to 8 years. The most attractive aspect of this bottling is the concentrated yet balanced fruit. Kirsch-like intensity with an elegance and purity of fruit that belies its 15% level of alcohol. Made from 100% old vines Grenache. I am definitely going to have to find some 750ml bottles of this stuff...

The 2007 Raspail-Ay Gigondas is certainly the most modern styled of this group of wines and thus quite a departure.  On its own it is quite tasty,  but typifies the lament that has been expressed by many on the move away from tradition that seems apparent with many Southern Rhones as of 2007.    Mainly Grenache with small amounts of Syrah and Mourvedre... 15% alc .... tasty raspberry and garrigue with robust floral aromatics. Average age is wines is around 40 years.

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