2011 Pintia

Enjoyed this wine at a restaurant in Madrid in October so bought some upon returning home. Pintia is owned by Vega Sicilia of Ribera del Duero fame. While Ribera del Duero is located east of the city of Valladolid, the Toro appellation is located west of Valladolid near Portugal.  Both are situated along the east-west course of the Duero River in the Castilla y Leon region (northwest of Madrid and southwest of Rioja). Here is a good reference map 
http://winefolly.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Spain-Wine-Map-2016-WineFolly.jpg#large

Pintia is 100% Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo), sourced from vines aged 40 to 60 years. Destemmed grapes are fermented in oak vats with malolactic in barrique followed by 12 months of aging in new barrels (75% French and 25% American).

This is a big almost plummy wine, yet it is able to retain Iberian character with underlying minerality and spice. Less acidity than is seen to the northeast in the Tempranillo-based wines of Rioja. It would be interesting to visit revisit this wine in 10 years. The style clearly underscores the difference in methodology between Toro and Rioja, with the winemakers in Rioja holding back and aging Reservas and Gran Reservas. 

Dense and opaque, the rich black fruit has less of the smoky character often found in Tempranillo. Cassis, pepper and fine-grained tannin complete the palate at this stage of development. Aromatics are lush as well, but without heat. However, the abv is not shy at 15%.

2005 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904

The '05 LRA GR 904 is 90% Tempranillo, sourced from the villages of Brinas, Labastida, and Vilalba with 10% Graciano from Briones and Rodezno. Destemmed grapes were crushed and fermented in stainless steel for 18 days at 25°C. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation lasted 38 days. Aged in used American oak for four years, manually racked eight times. 

Enjoyed this over the course of several days. Was initially decanted 2 hours ahead of serving at dinner.  Nose and palate were reticent, but the elegance and quality are readily apparent. Balsamic-inflected florals with a Burgundian weighted palate. Lighter-bodied smoky cherry fruit with allspice and dusty super-fine tannins. Optimal drinking window is still a few years away.

I find the La Rioja Alta wines typically lighter in style (perhaps a bit more elegant) compared to their next door neighbor, Lopez de Heredia.

As far the the 2004 and 2005 vintages of LRA GR 904, I have a preference for the 2004.  IMO, the '04 is a bit more powerful with truly classic structure. 

Here are my notes on the '04 from May 2016 (pop and pour at a restaurant)

http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2016/05/2004-la-rioja-alta-rioja-gran-reserva.html?m=1

2007 Xavier Vins Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Anonyme

First time I've tried this wine.  An impressive showing from winemaker, Xavier Vignon. Opened for slow-o 3 hours prior to dinner. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise and Vaccarese. Wears its 15% abv well for a lush vintage. Possibly one of the more even-handed 2007 vintage CdP's I've had. 

Vignon is also a consulting oenologist in the Southern Rhone, and works for several other domaines including one of my favorites, Marcoux. For his own wines, he employs a negociant methodology sourcing old vines fruit from some of the best parcels in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It apparently works very well. 

Most noticeable is the pure, balanced aspect of this cuvee. I've had a number of 2007 CdP's that are over-the-top, but this is not one of them.

Sweet florals on the nose with sois bois accents followed by very polished blackberry fruit.  There is a bit of shyness in the mid-palate on day 1 where you know something more is there.  The complexity one wants is there on day 2 where a quite nice pedigree is more fully revealed.  Hints of garrigue and nice minerality make this wine a pleasing complement to a variety of cuisine.  

1997 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle

Double decanted into clean bottle 3 hours prior to dinner. Initial nose had a bit of funk (that blew off after a while) and the palate was somewhat disjointed. Everything slowly came together after breathing in decanter for about an hour and a half. Lovely Burgundian showing, easily passing the Soldera test. 
Satisfyingly elegant nose of violets, smoke and spice. Nicely aged blackberry fruit accented by olive and game notes.  Lovely tertiary complexity that completes the picture, and reminds me of why the Northern Rhone produces some of the most beautiful wines in the world. Paired very nicely with filet mignon.

2007 Dugat-Py Vosne-Romanee Vieilles Vignes

Sourced from 75 year old vines in the Les Violettes and Les Quartiers de Nuit lieu-dits (at the western intersection of Vougeot and Grands Echezeaux). 13% abv. 

Could have definitely benefitted from a serious decant.  Quite a shrill showing on the palate when first opened. We let this slow-o in bottle for several hours before dinner, and it took all of that plus plenty of time in the stemware to really show its stuff.

Bright, spicy nose and after it stretched it legs, an absolutely irresistible olfactory melange of violets, menthol and sous bois, that I usually associate with 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts further up the slope. Wow, I loved that nose once it unfolded !

Use of whole cluster is evident in the spicy red berry flavors.  The shrillness calmed down after several hours and let some anise and shroominess show through.  

Perfectly complemented sausage stuffed mushrooms.

I dont get a chance to enjoy the wines of Bernard Dugat-Py often. This little thoroughbred is a long distance runner that outpaced the competition that evening. A very intriguing and complex wine.

2011 Big Basin Vineyards Syrah Old Corral Block

Would like to give a shout out to Bradley Brown at Big Basin Vineyards who hosted us on a wonderul visit in the Santa Cruz Mtns in July 2016. 

The Old Corral Block is a steep Estate vineyard (very beautiful, idyllic terrain), planted primarily to Alban Powerblock Syrah clone.  The cuvee usually includes 10% to 15% Grenache and a dollop of Viognier, aging for a couple of years in French oak. 

I have been a fan of Big Basin pinot noir for a while, and was recently introduced to the Rhone-varietal offerings.  This 2011 Old Corral bottling is just downright delicious.  Well balanced at 13.5% abv (bravo!). Decanted for 4 hours before dinner , which really helped to open things up. 

Elegant florals accented by leather notes. The allure of the palate over the evening took me a bit by surprise.  I was not expecting a lot since I had tasted this at the winery last summer, and it was quite reticent. This evening, with extended aeration, the black raspberry fruit is very, very tasty.  The addition of Grenache and Viognier to the Syrah blend provide the complexity that keeps you coming back again and again. An understated, traditional Rhone interpretation which I greatly enjoyed. Olive notes, subtle pepper, sous bois and a bit of stoniness round out the picture. A very popular wine at dinner tonight. 

2003 Domaine de Bonserine Cote-Rotie La Vialliere

Still sipping on the 2003 Bonserine Cote-Rotie La Vialliere that was opened last Saturday.... actually quite fine (when not juxtaposed somewhat unfairly next the the 1997 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle). This has improved over several days, boding well for continued cellaring...

Sort of reminds me of what Washington state based syrahs are striving for .... very tasty juice indeed with a somewhat modern slant ... roasted espresso complementing the minerally black fruit... alluring iodine on the palate .... nice acidity ...  good lift provided by the cut of Viognier, so important IMO...

Based on info from Jeb Dunnuck, this is the Domaine's only single vineyard offering, with production at about 400 cases. Purchased by Guigal in 2006.... continued production under the Bonserine banner...

1990 Quintarelli Amabile del Cere

The 1990 Quintarelli Amabile del Cere very satisfyingly completed the dinner last Saturday evening.  My first go-round with this wine, which was recommended to me by Mark Scudiery.  It is an interesting blend of Garganego, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Saorin.

I do not drink much dessert wine so this was a treat. Alluring sweet florals on the nose. Unctuous honeyed tropical fruit and marzipan palate.  Reminded me somewhat of a great tawny, but more elgant and far less dense. Modest 15% abv for a wine of this stature.

This was a pop and pour so there was a subtle clench out of the gate, then unfolding nicely over a couple of hours. Was actually better a couple days later after being stored under vacuvin.

Working my way through the Quintarelli portfolio and hope to try the famed Alzero (Cabernet Franc) next year ...

1997 Silvio Grasso Barolo Bricco Luciani

One of the tastiest and most enjoyable wines that I've had this year.  A rich, hedonistic treat that far surpassed expectations.

Double-decanted about 5 hours in advance of dinner.  Let it breathe in the decanter for about two hours. Minimal fine-grained sediment. 

The nose is strikingly perfumed with black fruit, spice and subtle eucalyptus. The palate was delicious early on , yet opening up and continuing to evolve over the evening. Sumptous black cherry, complemented by as classic of a tar and roses profile as you can find. 

It is really nice when you hit a wine at its peak. There's a lot of stuff going on here, with layers of complex fruit wrapped in a silkenly pleasing glycerin mouthfeel.  Tannins are resolved and it's the beautifully balanced acidity that makes it all work, taking the big-ness of the wine and making it food friendly as well as compellingly approachable.

I've enjoyed a couple of other Silvio Grasso wines over the past few years (1997 Ciabot Manzoni and 1998 Bricco Luciani), but this 1997 Bricco Luciani was the most rewarding.

Paired perfectly with grilled lambchops marinated with classic Dijon mustard & rosemary.  Side dishes of yams with pecans & cranberries, a broccoli - pear salad and mashed Yukon Gold potatoes. 

2006 Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet Cornas

Nicely done! This wine is seriously under-rated IMO.  Lovely bouquet indicates this wine is ready to drink, and the first sip of purple fruit confirms. Extremely tasty fruit with tapenade accents, sweet tannins and nice acidity. The underlying minerally character keeps things food friendly. Plush, but not ponderous. Enough complexity even at this young stage that bodes well for the future.

Egly-Ouriet VP, 2005 Marcoux Vieilles Vignes, 1997 Quintarelli Rosso Ca' del Merlo

Dinner at Aqua e Vino restaurant with Chef Gabriele Grigolon is a wonderful way to start the Christmas season. The warm and highly personal hospitality combined with the delicious cuisine brings smiles all around at this intimate locale.

Kicked off the evening by opening a bottle of Egly-Ouriet VP Grand Cru (disgorged May 2007 after 58 months on the lees) in dramatic fashion, via sabrage. 70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay from Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay. Likely comprised of a base vintage of 2001 with either 2000 or 2002 blended in (thanks for the info, Marius!)  Mature honeyed orange nose with slight oxidative note that I find particularly appealing. Minerally pear and lemon palate that opens up nicely through the evening. Paired beautifully with a ravioli stuffed with ricotta spinach and egg yolk, covered with freshly shaved Alba truffles. And with cauliflower flan, parmigiano fondue & quail egg with more truffles :-)

A 2005 Marcoux Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes was double decanted and given a couple of hours of air before dinner.  Sourced from La Crau, Gallimardes and Esquirons. The Vieilles Vignes cuvee is always a beautifully balanced and elegant wine. It benefits from another couple of hours of air at dinner, and is showing its best as the last of it is consumed - revealing a beguiling extra level of depth.  Refined blackberry, spice and - wait for it - that totally awesome garrigue signature from La Crau.... Damn, I like Marcoux wines.  This beauty carried us through a course of tagliolini and more truffles. And gnocchi with more truffles. 

A 1997 Quintarelli Rosso Ca' del Merlo drank very well after a double decant before dinner.  Fully mature with a compelling nose - plums and violets with a rich ripeness that is mouthwatering. Savory black fruit with a characteristic piquancy that likely has something to do with the ripasso technique. Vineyards are mixed limestone and basalt soils. Varietals are 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina, Sangiovese...

- Grapes are pressed immediately after harvest

- After 3 to 4 days of maceration, primary fermentation starts with indigenous yeasts

- Wine is racked and then sits until February

- Wine is racked onto the lees of the Amarone which starts a second alcoholic fermentation (ripasso)

- After 2ndary fermentation, the wine is racked into large Slavonian oak barrels for seven years

The Quintarelli paired nicely with veal entrecote and root veggies with more truffles.  Also quite well with an absolutely amazing dish of roasted branzino. 

I won't even get into how good the desserts were.  Chef Grigo and team do some amazing things with pastry. Great espresso to close, but not before a final reprise of the remaining Egly-Ouriet.