Maiden Voyage - 2005 Gravner Breg Anfora

A fascinating experience ... like listening to Keith Jarrett for the first time.  Your head goes "what is this?".  You don't quite have a frame of reference but you know you want to hear more of this lovely music...
I will say that the wine is a bit underwhelming in its aromatics, however the palate is utterly unique and sort of defies description simply because of my unfamiliarity with this genre.  It is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Riesling Italico... marzipan and mellow orange with a bit of spice...
Visually and texturally stunning, it demands decanting.  The closest frame of reference I have for this wine is perhaps a great Hermitage Blanc .. for some reason it just reminds me of that style...
Definitely evolves over time... opened it and let it breathe for about an hour before pairing it with chicken Dijon  ... however it was gone from the decanter all too quickly... we needed another bottle open and ready for stage two ... perhaps another day.
For comparison, we teed up the Gravner next to a 1996 Girardin Meursault Les Charmes in another decanter ... the Gravner disappeared ... it was too fascinating to last and went incredibly well with the chicken Dijon...
From the Friuli Venezia Giulia region in northeastern Italy, Gravner ferments his wines in large terra cotta amphorae. The juice has extended contact with the skins during fermentation which imparts the unique orange color.
Wine then spends six years (!) in barrel (Slovenian oak)...

3rd Annual Pinot Noir Dinner

The third annual Pinot Noir dinner was a memorable one - thanks to everyone for fantastic contributions from your cellars!

First flight paired with Cypress Grove Truffle Tremor Goat cheese followed by sautéed scallops...
1996 Drouhin Meursault Perrieres
2008 Prager Achleiten
2010 Comte Abbatucci Cuvee Collection Blanc General de la Revolution Jean Charles Abbatucci (favorite)

Second flight paired with lobster & crab ravioli...
1989 Chapoutier Chante Alouette
1998 Martinelli Martinelli Vineyard Reserve (favorite)
1998 Beaux Freres Beaux Freres Vineyard

Third flight paired with pork tenderloin grilled over cherrywood, lemon-herb risotto, Caribbean black bean & chickpea salad
2004 Chateau du Cedre Cahors Le Cedre
2004 Sea Smoke Ten (favorite)
2004 Mt. Eden Vineyards Estate
2009 Kosta Browne Gaps Crown Vineyard

Fourth flight paired with locally made Goat Cheese, Carolina Moon Brie, BellaVitano
2008 Pisoni Estate
2009 Kanzler Estate Reserve (favorite)

 

Fifth flight paired with Chocolate truffles and Honeycrisp apples

2003 Pax Griffin's Lair Syrah





Cabernet Sauvignon from California and Australia

An interesting selection of Cabernet Sauvignon from California and Australia, paired with prime filet mignon seared rare over cherry wood coals + garlic-herb risotto + Caribbean black bean salad.

1990 Beringer Private Reserve - these wines typically show well after 10-15 years and the 1990 is spectacular right now.  Black cherry with fine-grained tannins, cedar and a hint of anise.

1998 Noon Reserve - a monster of a wine that will go another 20 years.  Gobs of black currant fruit complemented by tar and well integrated tannins.

2006 Togni Estate - one of my favorite California Cabs ... this one is just a baby but is approachable now.  Blackberry and cedar and nicely balanced acidity for a California wine.

Guilty Pleasures

Yes, it's a bit too soon to drink this 2010 Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast, but we enjoyed taking its measure paired with Chicken Dijon and black bean salad.
Red raspberry fruit and spices with the quintessential Kosta Browne satin texture that makes this wine so alluring.
(Although this wine does lack earthy, forest floor characteristics that I enjoy in pinot noir ... perhaps why I dropped off the mailing list...)
Often the Sonoma Coast bottling can be preferred to the single vineyard wines. I have never been able to hang onto these wines long enough to gain insight on their aging traits. A friend has a bottle of 2007 Kosta Browne Kanzler Vineyard that I hope to try one day...

Postscript: Revisited the 2010 Kosta Browne over the Christmas holiday ... this one showed better than in September. Dark raspberry fruit, sandalwood and spice. Nicely developing notes of sous bois and attractive floral nose. Still a bit massive and in its infancy. Peak drinking window likely in another 4 to 5 years .... Paired with salame al tartufo, cashews, goat cheese al tartufo and a mild Danish sheep's milk cheese...

Coteaux du Languedoc Grand Cru ...

We've been wanting to try this cuvee for a while, and the challenge has been to find it at a reasonable price (which happens only rarely).  
The 2006 La Peira en Damaisela Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac la Peira certainly vies for the most descriptive name for a wine.  It is the "grand cru" version of La Peira's wines and is priced at three times the Las Flors cuvee which has been a continual favorite of this blog.

 

 

This 2006 La Peira is a massive and intoxicating wine with almost port-like intensity in its blackberry fruit. At this stage of development, it could easily be perceived as a New World Syrah.

The blend on this premier cuvee is 70% Syrah, 30% Grenache (as compared to the Las Flors which is 40% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre.)  The difference between the two cuvees is striking and, to me, the Las Flors is the more attractive wine due to the wonderful Mourvedre component - which gives the Las Flors a more floral nose and well-balanced palate.  The minerality apparent in the Las Flors seems a bit wanting in the La Peira "grand cru".

Don't get me wrong - this wine is a stunner and disappeared very quickly from the bottle --- it's impossible to stay away from once opened. 

Is this grand cru cuvee worth three times the price of the Las Flors?  Only time will tell, yet I don't see the three remaining bottles of this wine remaining in my cellar for more than a year --- it's just too good to hold back on...

As a final note, the true grail for La Peira aficionados may be the Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac "Matissat", which is 100% Mourvedre.  If the influence of Mourvedre on the Las Flors is any indication, then the Matissat cuvee will likely prove very special indeed... 

Sadly, the Matissat from any vintage seems impossible to find in the U.S. market ...

However, since La Peira is imported into the U.S. by Charlotte-based Eric Solomon, then perhaps there is hope for securing a bit of this elusive cuvee ... stay tuned.

 



A Return to Les Beaux-Monts

Les Beaux Monts vineyard in Vosne-Romanee is becoming a favorite due to its alluring complexity and age-worthiness.

This example of the excellent 1999 vintage from Daniel Rion & Fils provides a seductive red cherry and spice-filled palate with wonderful balance between fruit and acidity that complements grilled veal chops. 

The initial bouquet was typical violet and baking spices –-- however a fascinating development occurred after five to six hours when the wine exhibited absolutely intoxicating aromatics of licorice and pine. 

Beautiful light ruby color with garnet robe... 



A reference point for Syrah ...

A friend recently wrote me about a limited production cuvee made by Adam Tolmach of Ojai Vineyards.  It is the 1997 Henry Daniel Syrah, which is named after Tolmach's son.

A true northern Rhone-style blend, this Syrah is cut with 5% Viognier that typically adds floral notes to the nose.  The regular cuvee Thompson Vineyard Syrah I have had from Ojai are long-lived, fascinating wines with a signature coffee - anise flavor profile. 
I look forward to tasting this special cuvee from a winemaker who is a reference point for New World Syrah.

Ciò che un sangiovese gloriosa ...

When Brunello strikes, it is a thing of beauty ...

The 1995 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Le Gode di Montosoli underscores the graciousness of this vintage in Tuscany.  Lovely nose of fruit, roses and cedar with amazing vibrancy of palate ... cherry, smoke and saddle that just continued opening up until the bottle was gone all too soon.  Older vintages from Le Gode di Montosoli vineyard are a bit of a rare bird and worth looking out for ... 

Tuscan glory ...

What better way to celebrate a special occasion than with a lovely Brunello di Montalcino from the incredible 1990 vintage!

The "Rennina" from the Pieve Santa Restituta estate is an example of how beautifully Sangiovese can age... velvety dark cherry with roasted hazelnut overtones and a slightly subdued nose of rose petals and spice.  Rennina typically spends 24 months in oak before being bottled.  The color of this version was dark and voluptuous, belying its 23 years of age...
Pieve Santa Restituta has enjoyed a relationship with Angelo Gaja going back to the late 1980's. 
(http://terlatomontalcino.com/wines/rennina/) 
The Gaja family purchased the estate in 1994, and it has continued to represent a benchmark for quality in the Brunello di Montalcino appellation.

1997 vintage in Cote de Nuits

The 1997 vintage from Burgundy is reliable (if under-rated), and the wines are drinking well right now.  Case in point is the 1997 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaumonts from Dominique Laurent, who has a reputation for making his wines in a more "modern" style. 

A neighbor to the grand cru vineyards of Les Richebourgs and Echezeaux, the Les Beaumonts vineyard is one of the more prestigious premier cru's.  Since the vineyard is a bit higher in elevation, the fruit ripens slightly later and the wines typically need more time to balance out after bottling. 
This fine example opened up beautifully after two hours (decanted) and exhibited glorious red cherry with sous bois and nose of violets... paired perfectly with rack of lamb.

Purity of fruit ...

Enjoyed recently is the 2006 Agharta - a wine from northern California that is a southern Rhone-styled blend of 84% Grenache, 14% Syrah and 2% Viognier.

Pax Mahle is the winemaker behind this extraordinary cuvee ... it spends an incredible 52 months aging (70% in oak, 30% in stainless steel) prior to being bottled for release.  The result is an extremely well balanced wine with satin-textured blackberry fruit.  I can think of only one other wine that compares to Agharta in terms of absolute perfect expression of fruit and typicity for Grenache - the Domaine la Barroche Chateauneuf-du-Pape Pure ...

The sublime 2005 vintage

The 2005 vintage of pinot noir in Northern California is one of the best, and here are three interesting versions...

Let's start with the favorite of the evening, the Kanzler, which has been lauded before on this blog.  For me, the 2005 is still considered a reference point for Kanzler vineyard-derived pinot noir.  This wine seduces from the start with incredible purity of fruit--- almost overwhelming even at 8 years of age --- it clearly has a long life ahead.  Even with the massive fruit, it is still a very well-balanced California pinot with the gorgeous earthiness typical of the Kanzler vineyard.  Check out this video that Steve Kanzler recorded... it is a tour of his vineyard (he planted it himself in 1996) with fascinating detail on the pinot noir clones, soils, methods, etc...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57jSSynGUvQ&noredirect=1

Next in the line-up in order of preference is the venerable Martinelli Biondi Home Ranch, again a wine that has been a favorite here.  Nicely balanced fruit and acidity... lovely and not at all tiring on the palate ... I find this interpretation of the Biondi vineyard more burgundian in nature that some of the other Martinelli cuvees.

This is the first time we've had the Radio-Coteau version of Savoy Vineyard.  To be honest, it is a bit underwhelming.  Savoy Vineyard is a northernmost outpost for pinot noir in (all the way up in Mendocino County)... gorgeous pine-scented nose and a bit of menthol in the palate... nice raspberry fruit up front, but ultimately a one-dimensional effort (hollow on the mid-palate), especially for such a great vintage.  In my experience, the definitive cuvee from Savoy Vineyard is made by Stewart Dorman of Adrian Fog Winery.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTUFcFHXJ-o

Bourgogne blanc ciel

Beautiful wines are like people ... the older they get, the more interesting their story becomes.

I've always enjoyed Jean-Marc Boillot's Premier Cru Volnay's --- long-lived, refined and gorgeous pinot noir.  However, his chardonnay is something special. 

JM Boillot's 1995 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon deserves special merit for its longevity and amazing complexity.  Lemon - honey - beeswax palate with come-hither minerality that makes you wish you had another bottle ...

If a premier-cru white Burgundy is this good after 18 years, then what would a grand-cru be like? 

... il fascino dei vini maturi

The allure of classic vintages... when the elements of the varietals come together, the results can be, at times, transcendent.

We had the good fortune to be able to enjoy a diverse selection of older vintages from France, Italy and Spain paired with lamb for dinner. 
     From oldest to youngest...
1982 Ducru Beaucaillou - one of the more well-respected Deuxiemes Crus from Saint-Julien.  A bit more subdued than other '82 Bordeaux's I have had, this Ducru had a wonderful palate characterized by earthy black currant and leather.  The nose was quite conservative yet the color was still vibrant and looked to be of a wine ten years younger.
1988 Albert Morot Beaune les Teurons - a lovely nose of fruit and roses upon opening of the bottle signaled that this beauty had made it through years in great shape, and it did not disappoint.   Spicy cherry and plum combined with earthy morel notes ...  older Burgundy can be special.
1999 Giovanni Manzone Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno - Classic Barolo with rose petals and tar, raspberry and anise ... gorgeous translucent brick color...my personal favorite of the evening... lots of life left in this beauty.
1999 Clos Martinet - Wow ... I am continually impressed by the stunning quality of "Bordeaux-blend"-styled wines from Spain.  The Clos Martinet from Priorat is Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Syrah and Merlot. This wine was defintely the most seductive of the evening ... lush blackberry grenache fruit supported by rich creme de cassis leaves you wanting more.
2000 Ey "Vigne d'en Traginer" Banyuls - this Grenache-based dessert wine from Languedoc-Roussillon was paired perfectly with a chocolate tort.  Lovely apple & plum with note of caramel.

With regard to the category of liquid refreshment, I would be remiss in not mentioning our host's incredible custom-blended espresso with perfect crema .. essential to longevity through the evening!
Cheers...

A Beauty from Piedmont ...

Italian wines are the ones I have the least experience with -- which makes them an exciting frontier for me.  Nebbiolo, in particular, has always been a bit of a mystery.  Often quite tannic when young,  it's best to seek out Nebbiolo-based wines with at least 10 years of age. 

Barolo is considered to be the epitome of Nebbiolo, and last year I had the good fortune to participate in a Barolo tasting that shed some light on what all the fuss is about with these wines.

Just recently, we paired the 2001 A.G.N. Fantino Vigna dei Dardi Riserva with grilled veal chops and it was a revelation.  Gorgeous brick color, nose of faded roses, and tart cherry fruit --- this is a wine that begs for good food with its lovely balance of acidity and fruit.

With Barolo, think Sophia Loren .... sure, she was alluring in "Too Bad She's Bad", but she was stunning a few years later in "Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow"...

Why St. Emilion Rocks...

St. Emilion is known for being more approachable when young, yet many have outstanding potential for aging.  Case in point is the 1998 La Couspaude... its 70% Merlot + 30% Cab Franc blend provides a solid framework that could keep it going for another 10 years.
Black currant & kirsch with fine tannins, and a very tasty eucalyptus note ... gotta love what the Cab Franc brings to this dance....

An Aptly Named Seductress ....

This is a wine that is indeed hard to stay away from... the 2005 vintage is showing especially well right now and very successfully demonstrates why the Russian River Valley produces some of the best pinot noir in the world. 
Tannins are beautifully integrated with rich cherry fruit, a hint of sweetness balanced with savory forest floor ... all supported by lithe minerality... this wine always disappears quickly from the glass. 
The Lolita Ranch is a consistent favorite of the Martinelli pinot noirs...

The Greatness of Ribera del Duero



... a very rare treat indeed is the Bodegas Emilio Moro Malleolus de Sanchomartin.   A wonderful expression of Tempranillo ... smooth, lush blackberry fruit with very appealing notes of cedar and smoke.

Sourced from an "old-vines" vineyard originally planted in 1944, with limestone and clay soils.
Moro also makes an entry-level Ribera that is worth seeking out.  

Las Flors de La Peira

Languedoc-Roussillon is a source for outstanding new wines.  One of our favorites is Las Flors de La Peira from the Terrasses du Larzac appellation.

Las Flors is best enjoyed after a few years in the bottle.  The 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages are drinking well, however they are getting harder to find in the market.  The wine is a blend consisting typically of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. 

The 2006 seems to have a bit of an edge over the other vintages. Upon opening, aromas of lavender and sandalwood provide an intoxicating allure. It exhibits a wonderfully balanced palate with an acidity that expresses the influence of limestone marl substrate in the region. The velvet black raspberry fruit has layers of complexity that are continuing to resolve, suggesting that this wine has solid potential for aging for another 10 years or so. 

The 2005 vintage is softer with more lush fruit and a bit less acidity, while the 2007 is made is a more "modern" style (more oak). 

Las Flors de La Peira has everything one could want from a Rhone-style wine.

Happy Halloween!



Halloween!  Fall is in the air ... what better time to enjoy Pinot Noir.

Wonderful treat to compare the 2004 and 2005 Kanzler side by side... inimitable expression of terroir... 2004 was the first vintage produced (note the one-off first vintage label ! , true collector's item).  Lovely earthy fruit with forest floor, even a bit of anise... gotta love what Steve & Lynda Kanzler do with their vineyard ;-D



 

Martinelli pinots are always among my favorites... the 2001 Moonshine Ranch is drinking nicely... very smooth, luscious fruit with signature style ... there's a subtle thread that runs through all the Martinelli pinots ... perhaps Helen Turley's influence...

 

Compare with the gorgeous classicism of Girardin's 1999 Pommard Les Rugiens... I have never met a Pommard that I didn't like.  Fascinating Burgundian complexity that trumps pinots from anywhere else in the world... limestone underpinnings provide refreshing acidity with mushroom earthiness on the front end and finishing with mouth-watering sour cherry fruit ... the 1999 vintage from the Cote de Beaune will be a long-lived one!  Perfect paired with Dijon chicken or a nice Havarti ..

 

 

The outlier for the evening was a 2005 Rioja made in the modern style .. quite quaffable, but a bit too oaked for me...

cheers!