2014 Arterberry-Maresh Maresh Vineyard and 2014 St. Innocent Freedom Hill Vineyard

Fascinating comparison of two styles of Oregon Pinot Noir. 

Maresh Vineyard is in the Dundee Hills AVA. Jim Maresh is producing a wonderful Maresh Vineyard cuvee sourced from 40+ year old vines. 

Freedom Hill Vineyard (originally planted circa 1982) is a bit further to the south in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Mark Vlossak produces his version of the Freedom Hill cuvee at St. Innocent. 

While the Freedom Hill is very tasty right out of gate, it is the Maresh vineyard bottling that begins to rivet attention over the course of dinner and the evening.  Freedom Hill has exuberant up front fruit and minerally underpinnings, but is not the last word in complexity (at least in this early stage of development).

The Maresh Vineyard bottling unfurls slowly, more lightweight at first on the palate but gaining serious complexity. It becomes the clear favorite with food. Highly savory character, distinctive fruit (whole cluster?) ... and a nose to die for.  It echoes the depth and lovely framework of the 2014 Kelley Fox Maresh Vineyard bottling.  

Oregon winemakers are just killing it with uniquely original interpretations of great pinot noir.
Oregon is putting together a great run of vintages in 2014, 15 and 16...

Maresh vineyard is comprised of Jory soil.... here are interesting notes from the USDA NRCS website...

"...The Jory soil is recognizable by its red coloring and can be found in nine western Oregon counties on over 300,000 acres. Throughout the Interstate-5 corridor, a variety of crops and forests supported by Jory soil are visible on the foothills to the east and west of the valley...."
"...Although the Jory soil is found only in western Oregon, the soil developed mainly on Columbia River Basalt bedrock, originating from eastern Oregon lava flows. The weathering of these basalt uplands produced the deep, well-drained, rich, red characteristics of the Jory soil. These soil properties give the Jory soil a high productivity and capability for producing a wide variety of crops, orchards, vineyards, and high forest productivity...."

2010 Booker Vineyard Ripper (Paso Robles)

Delightful from the start. Slow-o in bottle for 2 hours prior to dinner. This far surpassed my expectations. Silky palate of red fruit at peak, accented by white pepper and cedar. Savory tertiary flavor that could be termed Paso Robles "garrique".
Seamless finesse on the framework. Absolutely irresistible. The nose is reticent compared to the lovely 2010 Chateau Vaudieu I enjoyed yesterday.  Eric Jensen is one of the great new world winemakers. Wears its 15.2% abv very well. Nicely balanced.... one of the most beautiful expressions of grenache outside of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Ripper is my favorite of the Booker offerings.

2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano

Pop and pour. 14.5% abv. My second encounter with this 2009 Monstefano cru in the past month. Both bottles have been very approachable and very tasty.  This bottle was right on top of its game with truffle-nuanced floral perfume.  Lush black cherry, plum, tar and leather, with a pop of acidity set on a puckering, yet elegant tannic frame.  Two thumbs up. Will improve over the next few years as the tannins mellow. Nothing wrong with trying one now while the '08's are cellaring. 
Found some of these on close out for $40.... a steal for this quality.
 

2010 Guigal Saint-Joseph Lieu-Dit Saint-Joseph

Early in its evolution, but nevertheless enjoyable. Beautifully traditional 13.5% abv.  Decanted for 5 hours, it continued to open up over the course of the evening. Savory aromatics with signature iodine and goudron. Blackberry, tapenade, and mineral palate with wonderful acidic lift and and freshness on the finish. I would guess some percentage of whole cluster from the high-toned aromatics. Smooths out over time gaining presence and a bit more complexity.  Give this another 3 to 5 years for improved tertiary character. 

There is nothing quite like the alluring smell of a good Northern Rhone syrah...

2012 Antica Terra Pinot Noir Botanica (Willamette Valley)

Haven't tried the Botanica cuvee in a long time  Maggie Harrison's pinot noir's are beautiful and will do nicely since Manfred Krankl (her mentor at SQN) stopped producing pinot noir from Oregon (Shea Vineyard sourced, I think) many years ago. 

Even though it's early in the drinking curve for this wine, it shows very well with lots of air. Double decanted (minimal sediment) before taking to restaurant. 

Rich flavor with balance... very much a grand cru representation IMO. Produced primarily from Shea Vineyard.. Willakenzie soils are clastic with some limestone influence (not volcanic). 

Black and red fruit, very fine mineral backbone and a savory element that wraps around your palate to keep you from putting the glass down. Nose is stunning mix of floral, spice and sous bois. Both Josh Raynolds and Neal Martin have brilliant tasting notes that more clearly describe this wine.  This will be absolutely gorgeous with another few years of cellaring, but it's definitely worth checking out now.

Antica Terra is my favorite Oregon pinot noir apart from Thomas, and one of my favorite pinot noirs period.

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Paje

14.5% abv. Reveals juicy dark red fruit with rich mouthfeel wrapped in an open-knit framework of polished tannin. Nice complexity even at this early stage of development. Classic tar, roses and balsam influence on a balanced finish... no undue heat or heaviness... a savory medium weight Paje.

It actually drank best within an hour of uncorking the bottle. Really alluring. Double decanted and left in the decanter for about an hour before pouring back into clean bottle. Very minimal fine grained sediment. 

Still pleasant throughout the evening, but it tightened up slightly over time with tannins becoming more dominant on the finish.

This is another 3 years possibly from optimal drinking window but is very enjoyable now.

2012 Peter Michael Les Pavots

Bordeaux-styled blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Not sure about age of vines, but fruit is sourced from an Estate vineyard. Listed at a whopping 15.8% abv, yet zero heat on the palate. Supremely balanced and not "over-extracted". Winemaker Nicolas Morlet is clearly a classicist taking advantage of California hang time for ripening fruit.

Pop and pour at restaurant. Opened up nicely after a couple of hours. A third of the bottle left over for day 2.

Really nice on day 2. Irresistibly elegant wine from a very approachable vintage. Dusty fine-grained tannins frame superb quality fruit. Cassis-laden, glycerin mouthfeel with black and blue fruit accompanied by hints of cedar and blond tobacco. Gossamer hints of scorched earth that I associate with higher-end Cabs from Knights Valley (a la Fisher Wedding Vineyard) as well as Pessac-Leognan (with its penultimate expression being La Mission Haut-Brion). Lilting aromatics of pain grille, cacao and spice...

What a delightful wine!  Heartfelt thanks to Robert and Shannon for helping to make Janet's birthday very special.

2012 Reynvaan Stonessence Rocks Vineyard

Fascinating cuvee .... 100% syrah... still young...although develops nice complexity with lots of air... finessed tannins framing very fine black fruit with tapenade accent..
Intriguing saline lift on the finish (oyster shell?) ... that perhaps would be analogous to a minerally streak in a Northern Rhone syrah...
 Christophe Baron is consulting winemaker and is killing it with world-class syrah in Walla Walla Valley....
This is a wine for people that enjoy classically styled syrah... paired beautifully with wood fired grilled filet mignon. .

2012 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard (Sonoma)

Slightly cloudy as a result of late malolactic fermentation. The wine itself is sound and drinking well....

Aubert farms 40+ year old vines in Ritchie vineyard....... the wine again demonstrates his classic new world mastery of this varietal ..
Rich, yet balanced honeysuckle and elegant citrus.  A bit like a nice Chassagne-Montrachet. Possibly a bit past peak. Nicely done... and at the pinnacle of white winemaking in California. .

2011 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero

It's been almost two years since I've checked in on this wine.  Slow-o in bottle for half hour and then took to dinner.  

Think elegant Burgundy except for delicate tar and roses palate... smooth as silk tannins still have more years ahead until completely mellowing out.... but after a couple of hours, a very nicely balanced overall picture emerges. Delicately floral aromatics compelete the package.  I really enjoy this style ... it is pretty irresistible for lovers of classic Barolo.

Not sure if this vintage will make old bones.  No sign of shutting down at this point.  

Cooking and Dinner with Chef Vincent DiGiorgio

Thanks to Leonard & Jill Taylor for hosting a memorable evening at their home....a cooking class and dinner with local Chef Vincent DiGiorgio. 

The scratch-made pasta was delicious  :) and fun to participate in making. The food was excellent, the wines were tasty, and the company was wonderful! 

2006 Quintarelli Ca' del Merlo Rosso IGT (Veneto)

Have enjoyed the 2006 vintage of Quintarelli Ca' del Merlo (House of the Blackbird) on several occasions and it has been consistently delicious. 

This is a single vineyard bottling. 2006 produced the most elegantly Burgundian version of Ca' del Merlo that I've had. (For example, the 2004 is a bigger wine that benefits from additional cellaring, while the 2006 is ready now.)

Double decanted for a quick aeration prior to dinner and served from bottle. Minimal sediment.

Ca' del Merlo shines with its unique blend of varietals providing a savory, elegant complexity.  Haven't yet found another producer in the region that can approach this inimitable style... 

The inclusion (15%) of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese in the blend provides a depth and complexity not found in the Vapolicella Superiore.

While lithe and classically proportioned on the palate, the masterful use of the ripasso method coupled with skillful blending provides for a unique sensory experience. Red raspberry and cranberry on the front end, developing into subtle darker fruits on the back end .... inflections of tapenade, tobacco .... finishing with a hint of toffee...

Vineyard is mixed limestone and basalt soils. 

Varietals are 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese...

- Grapes are pressed immediately after harvest
- After 3 to 4 days of maceration, primary fermentation starts with indigenous yeasts
- Wine is racked and then sits until February
- Wine is racked onto the lees of the Amarone which starts a second alcoholic fermentation (ripasso)
- After 2ndary fermentation, the wine is racked into large Slavonian oak barrels for seven years.

2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett A.P. #8

Pop and pour. 8.5% abv.

A nice quaffable Reisling that was less than optimally staged (at the last minute) to follow the stunning 2010 Marcel Deiss Grasberg. 

Melon and citrus palate with nice freshness and lift. A bit of fizziness and hints of petrol to excite the finish. A fair degree of complexity for a Kabinett. Oliver and Wilhelm Haag demonstrate consistent quality across their entire range of offerings ...

Paired exceptionally well late in the evening with bits of fried prosciutto that were left over from brunch ...  :) :) :) 

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Day 2 notes...

Paired the 2nd half of the bottle with Vietnamese cuisine at dinner.  Showed better today (in proper context) than on day 1, when it was somewhat unfairly juxtaposed with the Deiss Grasberg. 

Settled into a charming groove, with feinherb character coming into play and supporting food-friendly complexity.  Delicious interplay of tropical citrus fruit and mouthwatering salinity. Really showcases the elegance of the 2007 vintage ... delightfully irresistible  :) ... Fritz Haag is one of my favorite producers ...

2010 Marcel Deiss Grasberg (Alsace)

13% abv. Field blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, grown in soils influenced by Jurassic limestone substrate.. Early stages of drinkability, this a big wine. Decanted to aerate for two hours prior to dinner. Deep golden color.

Beautiful honeyed nose. Oily tropical palate of pineapple, spice and herb melange, with a prominent streak of chalky saline minerality. Slightly bitter fruit pit that makes for an interestingly complex finish. Almost a medium-dry Auslese style.

Gains serious presence during dinner. We keep it slightly chilled at the table as it seems to show better delineation of the fruit. The viscous mouthfilling flavor is fascinating with balanced acidity completing the framework. The slight bitter fruit pit recedes into the background as the evening progresses, and a lychee rosewater freshness slips into the finish. This lychee rosewater trait will manifest itself over time, as evidenced in a 1989 Grasberg we enjoyed last year which was ethereally refreshing.

A revelatory experience with the potential of Alsace. A "wow" wine for me. I cannot recommend this wine highly enough.

Paired beautifully with fresh crab cakes and sea bass.

Jean-Michel Deiss and his son, Mathieu, are making wines that provide terroir-driven depth of expression. Reminds me of what Manfred Krankl is doing at Sine Qua Non with his alchemistic white blends.

2013 Cordero di Montezemolo Barbera d'Alba

This wine brought smiles all around    

Just entering prime drinking window.  Irresistible bouquet upon popping the cork. A testament to the greatness of the 2013 vintage across the board in Piemonte.

The most striking attribute is the freshness & lift provided by the acidity, in balance with soft tannins and silky blackberry fruit. There is a hint of tertiary development that keeps things interesting on an impressively savory finish. Not terribly complex but oh-so-satisfying. 

Day 2 brought out even more character. Ridiculous QPR. I wish that I had bought a lot more of this. The 2013 doesnt look to be available in the US anymore...

Purchased a few bottles as part of a mixed case from a dinner with Alberto in 2014...
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/10/tuesday-evening-with-alberto-cordero-di.html?m=1

2009 Kelley Fox Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard (Dundee Hills)

I'm guessing whole cluster on this wine. ABV in the 14% range. Pop and pour.  Very unique old world style.  Reminds me of Dugat-Py village level burgundy. Most certainly adhering to the David Lett style of Oregon pinot noir. Sourced from 40 year old vines planted to Wädenswil clone.

Tart red raspberry (gooseberry level of piquancy).  It took a full 3 hours for this one to fully come together and reveal a most savory character with tasty sous bois and clove. 

Grows on you as it unwinds, ultimately becoming irresistible as it evolves and defies usual new world pinot noir expectations ...

2013 Big Basin Pinot Noir Woodruff Family Vineyard (Santa Cruz Mtns)

12.6% abv. 

Enjoyed this wine over the course of three evenings. Improving and gaining character each day, with the last quarter bottle being a righteous expression of minimalist-style, whole cluster pinot noir wine-making in the Santa Cruz Mtns by Bradley Brown. 

Really a stunner upon opening the bottle, the whole cluster component is evident right away with spice and wonderful piquancy on the nose and palate. 

Less intervention with increased expression of terroir. 

It was a joy visiting and getting to chat one on one with Messr. Brown a couple of years ago. An incredibly beautiful area.

With the third day, a bit of the sharp edges had mellowed and slowly gave a glimpse of a very nice future.  Tart , very pure Balaton cherry, spiciness, and a note of anise on an incredibly savory frame. Irresistible. A truly incredible sous bois on the nose.  

The Woodruff and the Alfaro are my two favorite pinot noirs from Big Basin.  I can't wait to try the 2013 Alfaro....

Interestingly enough, Jeb Dunnuck comments that the move to a leaner style of pinot noir has not always produced optimal results at Big Basin.  I would heartily disagree with this viewpoint.  Messr. Brown is following his heart and making beautiful pinot noir.

2011 Dominque Belluard Ayse Mont Blanc Brut Zero (Savoie)

PnP.... 12.5% abv ... 100% Gringet

Beautifully dry sparkling wine with quite a level of intensity. Zesty lemon and spice with precise cut of minerality. Fine mousse that dances across your palate. Intriguing nose of wildflower and yeast...

Nice QPR. Priced in the less than $50 range. The 2012 vintage is a bit more elegant and balanced. This 2011 is really enjoyable and was very popular at dinner. 

Here are notes from David Schildknecht ...

"....For most of the 19th century, the name “Ayse” (or “Ayze”) on a bottle was a sign of uniquely high-quality (particularly sparkling) wine rendered from diverse cepages including Mondeuse and Persan but especially the white grape Gringet, a late- and irregular-ripener whose lineage is shrouded in mystery – like many Alpine varieties tied to tall tales of faraway places – but which has recently been demonstrated by Swiss vine geneticist Jose Vouillamoz to be unrelated to any other well-known cepage and almost certainly of local origin. The post-phylloxera, post-World War I decline of these rocky moraine and chalk-clay (by Alpine standards gentle) slopes overlooking the Arve River halfway between Geneva and Mont Blanc is not dissimilar to that of many once-renowned French wine growing sectors, and in this instance both the vineyards and the Gringet nearly died out.

Patrick Belluard has made it his life’s work to rescue both, though surely no one including him could have imagined just what their synergy might ultimately amount to in bottle. Not to leave you in suspense, it amounts to some of the most remarkable not to mention improbable vinous excitement and promise I have witnessed anywhere in France during the past decade. I first tasted Belluard’s wines from the 2003 vintage – an oddball nearly everywhere, but here resulting in something delicious and unusual. This did not, however, prepare me for the intrigue let alone beauty and polish I experienced when I visited Belluard last November, a result he credits not only to generally greater know-how and an increasingly clear vinous vision, but especially to a biodynamic conversion completed in 2005. And who know but that Gringet might prove a vine singularly suited to our time, as the evidence suggests that here is one grape – tardy and irregular though its ripeness may be – that doesn’t accumulate sugar faster than flavor! Of 54 remaining acres in Gringet, Belluard now farms 30, most of the rest being split among very small landholders who sell in bulk for production of sparkling wine (now protected by an Ayze sub-appellation) or make wine as a hobby. His share of sparkling is 60% but he intends to level of at half.

After frustrating experiences with barrels masking the purity of flavors that he takes such pains to preserve (inter alia employing a basket press), Belluard became one of the earliest proponents of vinification in concrete “eggs” which he commenced in 2005 and for his still wines now uses almost exclusively, though amphora have recently entered the picture. Faced with a time shortage and not wishing to excessively prevail on Belluard’s generosity (we met late one evening because it was the only chance I had to pass anywhere nearby his estate) I intuitively chose as my point of comparison with 2010, 2008 – which, Belluard opined, was an even more challenging vintage – and when he offered to open one more bottle I wisely (as it turned out) chose 2006 over 2005...."

2009 Domaine Joblot Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier Aux Moines

PnP 13.0% abv.

Mellow tart red cherry, mushroom and forest floor. Refined tannins with a hint of sweetness. Wonderful savory notes that gain presence over the course of several hours. Not a lot of complexity on the finish, but it doesn't matter much at this stage since the quality of fruit is so alluring. This disappeared quickly. Very nice QPR ($45 range) . Definitely looking for more. 

Paired nicely with pecan encrusted chicken, mushroom risotto and broccoli - pear salad. 

I am really liking these wines from Givry...

Here are notes on background of the Domaine:

"...The wines of Givry have been lauded since the time of Henri IV, however since phylloxera hit the Côte Chalonnaise in the late 1800s, the appellation has been slow to recover. Leading its resurgence are brothers Jean-Marc and Vincent Joblot, who have brought pride and fame to Givry for their refined, sumptuous, spicy and balanced cuvées. Influenced by Burgundian legend Henri Jayer, Jean-Marc’s winemaking style is celebrated by critics for lending charm and finesse. As such, the Joblots have shown that the wines of Givry may be less well-known today than they were centuries ago but still rival those of the neighboring Côte de Beaune. Today the brothers are joined by Jean-Marc’s daughter, Juliette...."
 
"....The microclimate and terroirs of Givry are ideal. A natural, three-mile amphitheater shelters the commune from the westerly winds, and the rocky, limestone soils impart a chiseled minerality on the wines. The Joblots farm 13.5 hectares sustainably, nine of which are exclusively in premier cru vineyards. Among these are their premier crus Clos de la Servoisine and Clos du Cellier aux Moines, the best parcels in the appellation situated above the village with full southern exposure. A severe de-budding and green harvest keeps yields low. Unlike many vignerons who judge the ripeness of their grapes on brix, the Joblots base their decision on acidity levels. During the harvest, sorting occurs in the vineyards, and they are known to drop up to 40 percent of a vintage if it fails to meet their standards...."
 
"...Jean-Marc is the master of the cellar, and his non-interventionist approach allows the terroirs to speak for themselves. All but 10 percent of the grapes are de-stemmed. He seeks long, cool macerations for optimal extractions. While he vinifies each parcel separately, each cuvée undergoes natural fermentation in the same manner so that the finished wines highlight of the character of the individual terroirs. His longstanding relationship with local cooper François Frères allows him to tailor the barrels to his specifications; in fact, Jean-Marc prefers a sweeter smelling barrel to one that is charred, which he believes integrates into the wines well. He bottles the wines unfiltered to allow them a pure expression of fruit...."