Les Tastevins du Lac is dedicated to camaraderie in pursuit of joie de vino! This blog serves as an informal forum on wine, food and travel.... Cheers! Steve Adams





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Sunday, May 31, 2015

1996 Revello Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata

Slow-o for 2 hours and then decant.  Good intensity up front and nice aromatics.  Nice depth of cherry fruit laced with hints of kirsch ... balanced gravity.  This is a good wine showing the pedigree of Annunziata. However, as the evening progressed we didn't see the momentum develop perhaps indicating that it's on the far side of the drinking window (at least for this particular bottle).

Like all good Barolo, this is a contemplative wine with enough facets to make it interesting, just not stellar.   The tannins seem to have mellowed a bit too much.  Overall, compared to the recent showstoppers from 2003 (Conterno CF) and 2004 (Borgogno Riserva Pinin), this '96 was less vibrant and fresh.  The younger ones exhibited more complexity.

It did pair very well with grilled bone-in ribeye steaks :-)

2004 G. Borgogno Barolo Riserva Pinin and 2000 Damilano Barolo Riserva

Thanks to Steve Russo for bringing over the '04 Borgogno Riserva Pinin. Had never seen this wine before and information on this bottling seems quite elusive. Is it a blend of several vineyards? 

The '04 Pinin was opened and decanted right away.  We ended up drinking it over the course of about 7 hours.  

The most striking thing about the '04 Pinin is the balance (as one would expect from the 2004 vintage).  It evolved showing wonderful depth while being classically lithe in body (even Burgundy-like).  Floral aromatics were gorgeous from the start, while the complexity of the palate was really quite startling for a mid-weight wine as the night went on. Delicious Rainier cherry fruit. Gossamer dusty tannins framing a lovely traditional tar & roses profile with hints of anise. Clearly, everyone very much enjoyed this wine.

The 2000 Damilano Riserva was reviewed here a few weeks back.
This recent bottle did not show as well alongside the beautiful '04 Borgogno Pinin (the '00 Damilano seemed a bit clunky in comparison ... again, as might be expected comparing 2000 vintage in general to 2004).  However, when we drank the rest of the '00 Damilano Riserva several days later, it was more enjoyable on its own merits  :-D 

Saturday, May 30, 2015

2003 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia

Slow-o'd for 4 hours prior to dinner and then decanted at restaurant. Very little sediment. Fascinating evolution over the course of the day.

When first opened, the warmth of the vintage was readily apparent. ... a bit too up front and slightly disjointed. Fast forward to dinner and full exposure to air 4 hours later, the noble Cascina Francia pedigree comes into focus. 

 Very elegant for the vintage. With extended aeration,  the lush fruit balances out with the impeccably classic tar and roses notes on the palate. 

It's the underlying vein of minerality that completes the picture and makes this wine impossible to resist. 

The nose that was at first a tad stewed upon opening the bottle but then settles into pleasing floral aromatics (not overpowering). 

Always the sign of a great Barolo, the last of it is gone and it is just getting better and better.  A great bargain at current  market prices.

Paired with grilled octopus as first course and bone-in veal chop with sautéed veggies for main course.

Sunday, May 24, 2015

1992 Forman Cabernet Sauvignon and 1992 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain

Opened and decanted.... consumed over the course of 9 hours ... with dinner and afterward. Paired with grilled ribeye steaks and grilled veggies.  Dessert was selection of cows milk and sheeps milk cheeses, Spanish fig cake, and fresh local honeycomb.

Both wines were in good shape. Am more familiar with Forman than Dunn. Of course, the '92 vintage is a sensational one for this mini-masterclass in hallmark California Cabs.

Forman exhibited it quintessential flavor profile....I can always pick out the signature olive component. Fine tannins and very elegant overall. The mature cherry fruit is deceptively lithe until you get to the tertiary complexity that develops as the wine opens up.... sous bois, cassis.   This is a wine to be savored. A lot of stuff going on with the palate that shows off the classic Forman vineyard terroir.  It has that elusively nimble complexity that we seek in our wines.  

Dunn was a big flavor profile right out of the gate. Lush mature fruit, yet you can tell there is still some time ahead for this one. A big wine with everything in balance, burnished tannins, gorgous earth and minerality A classic wine of substance. Perfect complement to the steaks. 

While Dunn is a lovely wine, we found that we kept coming back to the Forman because of it's very alluring tertiary complexity. It will be interesting to see what lies ahead for the Dunn with age.

The two distinct profiles give rise to consideration of respective terroirs.  Forman's beautiful hillside vineyards are more southerly and west facing.   Dunn vineyards may have a more northerly exposure.

Sunday, May 10, 2015

2007 Calera Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard and 2011 Neely Pinot Noir Spring Ridge Vineyard Upper Picnic Block

Talk about dichotomy in styles of pinot noir!  Here are fascinating examples. 

The 2007 Calera Ryan is a big, high - altitude wine with well defined raspberry and sous bois palate. Aromatics are somewhat subdued (or is it my spring allergies..?).  Not as alluring as the 2005 Calera Mills we had recently,  but still quite enjoyable..... 

Opened the 2011 Neely and , whoa -hold the phone- this is a different beast entirely. Very light in color with only 12.4% abv.... so lithe in body with bright strawberry,  sassafras palate... quite spicy.  Intriguing spice on the aromatics as well. Santa Cruz Mtns. Made by the Varner brothers.  Became significantly more fascinating on day two (Sunday evening sunset dinner ... a la carte meatballs and balsamic peppers). 
Hard to put this wine down.... it demands coming back for more.... doesn't want to be pigeonholed as a typical California pinot noir...

2004 Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore

I cannot say enough about the masterful wines of Giuseppe Quintarelli.  Having become acquainted with these wines via Mark Scudiery, they have become some of my favorites.  Perhaps an over-used term, but purity in eclectic style and substance comes to mind.  I hope to visit Quintarelli when I am traveling through Verona this summer. 
This 2004 vintage of the Valpolicella Classico Superiore is fully evolved yet has many years of life ahead.   Perhaps slightly brighter and more delineation of fruit than the Ca' del Merlo bottling,  but really too close to call.