Checking in on the development of this vintage, I figured it would be a bit young (and it is). But after a full decant and around 8 hours of air, there's a very pleasing glimpse of what the future holds.
This is an old school California Bordeaux blend (50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc) made from Spring Mountain fruit with big tannins that need 10 to 15 years to mellow and for the sweet spot in the drinking window to open. I like that traditional approach. (Perhaps from the influence of Nils Venge as consulting winemaker)...
Excellent mountain fruit, but it's the nose that really lights this rocket after long aeration. Complex aromatics with tobacco and scorched earth. Analogy is usually drawn to St. Emilion, however I get parallels with Pessac Leognan.
Will try this again in 2021 with great expectations :)
This was an extraordinarily enjoyable evening hosted by Nelson Lemmon and Steve Dunn at the Cru Bourgeois gathering. I had not tasted this extensively of the BV Private Reserve. I like older wines so it was quite a treat.
It is difficult for me to take detailed notes at these get-togethers because everyone is just enjoying the evening and each others company. All of the wines showed very well and were delightful . I will list the vintages and note my favorites.
First flight:
1971 - favorite
1972
1974
1975 - this was showing incredibly young on the palate and in the color of the wine
1976 - 2nd favorite
1977
Second flight:
1978
1979
1980
1981 - 2nd favorite
1982 - favorite
1994
Intriguing comparison of pinot noir interpreted from Cote de Beaune and Russian River Valley. As with the Quintarelli and Dal Forno last weekend these are both very nice wines, however I think they are best enjoyed on their own. For the record, the Potel Volnay Mitans was the favorite.
'99 Potel Volnay Mitans:
Seemed like this wine took a loooong time to really open up and show its stuff. It benefits from several hours of slow-o and time in the glass. Very well balanced at 13% abv. Tart dark cherry fruit complemented by sous bois with elegantly aged mineral framework. Delicious with chicken marsala. The Volnay perfume was subdued at first, with ephemeral florals blossoming after several hours. Very fine grained sediment. Not the most compelling example of a '99 Volnay 1er Cru I have had, but quite enjoyable.
'99 Martinelli Pinot Noir Martinelli Vineyard Reserve
OK, I concede that this wine can be perceived as a bit over-the-top at 15.5% abv. However, Martinelli makes some darn tasty, long-lived pinot noir. Big, spicy raspberry fruit and an alluring nose with anise accent. I always enjoy this wine on its own merits. I think they stopped making the Martinelli Vineyard Reserve around 2003 (sold off the vineyard or something?), so I try to pick up some every year through a reliable source.
I was pretty much unaware of these two Producers several years ago. Mark Scudiery prompted my interest in Quintarelli, and it has become a favorite. Paired the Quintarelli and Dal Forno with main course of fresh pasta with truffles. It was educational to taste these wines side by side, however I think they are best enjoyed on their own largely due to the difference in styles.Both were served from bottle, opened about 90 mins prior to dinner. The '97 Dal Forno was luscious from the start while the '95 Quintarelli took a while to open up. Somewhat unexpectedly, the Quintarelli was the clear favorite. It is a thrilling, multidimensional wine with beautiful fruit coupled with mouth-watering acidity. The nose is absolutely gorgeous. I was a bit surprised at how well the Quintarelli showed for a relatively older vintage. It is beautiful and still in its prime. While the Dal Forno is a highly alluring and enjoyable wine, it seemed more one-dimensional next to the Quintarelli. The Dal Forno fruit is really lovely, though. It just doesn't have the underpinnings of the Quintarelli. On day 2, we finished off the rest of the Dal Forno and enjoyed it immensely. We filtered the last of it thru a coffee filter (there was quite a bit of sediment ) and wow, what a delight the last pour was. (No Quintarelli was left over for day 2.)Later in the evening on day 1, we popped the '02 Domaine de la Vougeraie Pommard Les Charmots (because the Quintarelli was running low). The Les Charmots is lovely wine which underscored some of the similarities between good Burgundy and Valpolicella. Beautiful tart cherry palate with supple aromatics. Minerality that blows away most west coast pinot noir. Have to mention the '12 Forman Chardonnay. .. an always enjoyable Burgundian rendition (no malo). Ric Forman makes two wines, the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Chardonnay - and they are both reference point wines in my book. In summary, for the '95 Quintarelli Ca' del Merlo. .. holy smokes what a wine! If you find some, grab it. This experience makes me want to go after some of the renowned Alzero :)
Having had minimal experience with the Rionda cru, this wine is a revelation. The 2010 version of the Vigna Rionda Riserva was one of the highlights of the masterclass tasting at Festa del Barolo earlier this year. This 1997 version emphatically demonstrates the incredible potential from this hallowed vineyard. In an interview that Antonio conducted, Franco Massolino says, “It was Bruno Giacosa who made the vineyard famous around the world with his Barolo Collina Rionda. Unfortunately Giacosa stopped making his wine in 1993. Our goal is to make a Barolo that can live up to the standard Giacosa established.” IMHO, Massolino has accomplished this while delivering his singular interpretation of the Rionda terroir.
This is assuredly one of the most delightful wines from Piemonte that I have had this year. Slow-o'd for around 3 hours and then into a decanter at the restaurant where it really began to show its stuff.
It is immediately apparent that this is a very special wine. Elegant, yet absolutely compelling. Lovely fruit balanced with tarry notes. Depth of complexity sets it apart with an alluring and fascinating finish of spices and dusty gossamer tannins. Pale ruby color with garnet robe... remarkably translucent, aptly passing the Soldera test. The nose keeps opening up with haunting, come-hither florals and hints of anise. This is a wine where descriptives sort of fall short of capturing its essence. 14% abv. Minimal, very fine grained sediment.
An enchanting visit to Rionda that leaves me wanting to go back for more!
I love this wine from this vintage, which continues to drink consistently well, year in and year out. The older white Burgundy is built to last, and is largely unaffected by the modern-day premox debacle.
A sunset of honeyed melon and brioche on the palate. The nose is still quite vibrant with its minerally florals. Paired well with dinner first course of sauteed calamari.
Bravo for the '96 vintage white wines from the Cote de Beaune! :)
Dinner with Cru group ... here are a few of the wines that were enjoyed:
'96 Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore Vigneto Monte Lodoletta. .. a big plummy version of this beauty... perhaps a bit past its prime, but once it opened up - oh man, the aromatics are wonderful :) Hints of mocha and spice.... love Veneto wines.
'04 Domaine de Marcoux Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes. ... nice showing for this bottle. Recent notes at: http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2015/10/2004-domaine-de-marcoux-cdp-vieilles.html?m=0
What could surpass a Marcoux VV ? The reponse is....
'07 Domaine Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape le Secret de Sabon (from magnum) ... a special treat since I have not had this wine before. Very nice showing, perhaps on the early side of its drinking window. Beautifully balanced... no over-the-top characteristics that can be sometimes found in '07 CdP's. This is mostly old vine Grenache. Vibrant expression of fruit with purity of essence (to quote General Ripper from Dr. Strangelove) ... seriously, a one of a kind beauty ...
This was a very nice surprise, opened at the last minute to accompany Chicken Dijon for dinner. The nose is incredible from start... head-turning stony citrus florals that keep coming. On the palate, it reminds you of what Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire is all about....beautiful lemon zest framed by bracing minerality reflective of the limestone terroir.... complemented by signature mouth-watering salinity. All of this and only 12.5% abv. Highly recommended. Would really like to try the Loire-sourced pinot noir from this producer.
Checking in on the '03 Les Varonniers almost a year later with a fresh bottle. Popped and poured with grilled ribeye steaks. Rockin' right out of the gate. Delightful and perfect with the steaks & mushrooms.
Blackberry with very tasty mocha and creosote. .. gotta love Northern Rhone wines, especially Chapoutier :)
Will see how it opens up.... day 2 notes to follow.
Poured this alongside the end of the magnum of '01 Vina Tondonia ... folks really gravitated to the Les Varonniers .... the '01 Tondonia has a little ways to go , but really showed well this evening with the classicism typical of Lopez de Heredia
01 is from magnum; '02 is from 750 ml.
Have been enjoying the '02 for a while now. We've probably been through a case and a half. '02 has nice red and blue fruit. ... an almost Bordeaux-ish palate at times. Lovely wine.
Opened the magnum of '01 five days ago. Initial taste is not what I expected. Seemed a bit thin with light aromatics. Vacuvin'd and let it sit for a day. Re-opened and decanted half the bottle to aerate, intending to take it to a wine dinner. Still not showing that well. Vacuvin'd and let it sit for 3 days.
Re-opened and started pouring for dinner. Things are happening now. Drank alongside an '02 for comparison. '02 is richer and plummier. The '01 really started to hit its stride about 4 hours later. More precise, incisive fruit, nice acidity with some brambly sous bois. Became much fuller bodied. The nose is delicate and fascinating with some hints of tobacco, perhaps even trending towards ethereal. Much later, I could swear the nose reminded me of some older Giacosa wines that have that graceful elegance.
The '01 is a fascinating wine... built to last even thought it is quite nimble in structure.
Have had the Villero cuvee from Boroli, but this is my first foray with the Bussia. Upon opening the bottle, very attractive florals burst forth. Initial taste yields delicious classic tar and roses profile. Slow-o for a couple of hours and then into a decanter.
While this was an enjoyable quaff, it just doesn't have a lot of complexity. Perhaps with additional age? It does lean toward the modern side. On the palate, the fruit was tasty and then it stopped short with a bit of heat and a sense of clunkiness. ... struggling to show more but not getting there. Paired fairly well with grilled bone-in ribeye steaks.
These two beauties inspire dialogue about the transformational character of great white wines. I just don't drink whites that often, so it's a treat to indulge - especially with ones that I don't have much experience with. Most enjoyable are the incredibly alluring noses on these wines. Both are superbly balanced at 12.5% alc. :)
'00 LdH Tondonia Blanco is 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia Riojana. Amazing petrol nose. Minerally & nutty palate with honey nuances and alluring salinity on the finish .... exhibits a texture/mouthfeel that reminds me of Ribolla Gialla. Fascinating contemplative wine that gains complexity over the course of several hours. Paired well with grilled tuna, arancini and grilled veggies at dinner.
'09 Huet Moelleux Le Haut Lieu provides an informative experience with Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. Gorgeous sweetly floral, slightly petrol nose. Melon and tropical fruits, but with a stony crispness on the finish that I associate with Chenin Blanc from the Loire. Evolves very nicely in the glass over several hours. This was served before dinner on its own and later with almond tort for dessert.
Very much enjoyed both of these in their own framework, yet the Tondonia Blanco is the one I am drawn to over the course of the evening as it opens up and shows its stuff....
Two classic CdP's. Great comparison of terroir and vine age. Both wines were decanted and let open up for about 90 mins before serving. We had a few other wines being served as well, so it was a good opportunity to let these CdP's really open up and see how they developed over the course of about 7 hours.
First experience with the Marcoux Vieilles Vignes (have had the regular cuvee). Mostly Grenache (from 100 year old vines) with a small dollop of Cinsault. Sourced from La Crau, Gallimardes and Esquirons lieux-dits. As with all great wines, the first thing that comes to mind is balance. This is a beautiful expression of CdP ... gossamer tannins, pure blackberry fruit, white pepper, hints of creosote and a certain expression of garrigue that I find unique (and instantly identifiable) to La Crau. The gravitas in character of the old vines is readily apparent compared to the Vieux Donjon ...the Marcoux VV being elegant and powerful without being ponderous. Underlying minerality complemented ribeye steaks amazingly well.
The most immediate impression of the Vieux Donjon was delicious upfront fruit with a more fragrant nose, but much thinner underneath than the Marcoux VV's rich palate. A more traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. A good wine on its own...
The Marcoux VV was WOTN. An enchanting cuvee that keep unveiling more and more complexity as the night went on...
Fascinating evolution of this wine over a 3 week time span after opening. 14.9% abv.
This is a Sonoma sourced Cabernet Sauvignon.
Uncorked about 3 weeks ago at a Cabernet-themed wine dinner. Decanted and let it breathe over the course of about 5 hours. Good, but a bit of of tannic burst on the back end with the fruit closing down on the finish. Put about half the bottle back into cellar under vacuvin.
Tasted twice more over the course of the past 3 weeks, usually at dinner. Mellowing over time yet still not quite together and showing its true potential.
Finished off the last 2 glasses this evening with griiled bone-in pork chops. Wow! Finally showing its stuff. Tannins had transitioned sweetly and the fruit was gorgeous with nice tertiary complexity. Really underscores the longevity of this bottling. Classic black currant/cassis. Nose had even developed a bit more with floral aromatics.
Always amazing to follow the evolution of red wines over the course of several weeks. The good ones just get better....
A beauty of a CCR, just a couple of years too young to reveal its true potential. It's all there just beneath the surface with the hallmark quality of the 2010 vintage.
Full decant and enjoyed just a glass on day one. Quite reticent. Let it breathe in the decanter for around 5 hours and then rebottled with vacuvin.
Day two - more of the balance and satiny fabric of fruit and tannins are showing. Paired outstandingly well with fresh made ravioli. Totally addictive. Mostly Sangiovese with small amounts of Canaiolo and Colorino. A steal at around $20.
These two wines were actually a Spanish flight served at the same dinner with the Massolino Margheria and Cogno Vigna Elena.
'01 Valsardo from Ribera del Duero is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. As with many blends from Ribera del Duero, it is quite Bordeaux-ish in nature. Lush black cherry, cassis and hints of graphite. Voluptuous aromatics. Drinking at its peak. Actually paired the best of any of the wines with the grilled lamb. A hedonistic effort.
'02 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva is one of our "go-to" house wines. This is classic Rioja at its best, and always continues to amaze me in being such a delightful wine from a difficult vintage. Lends credence to the adage that great winemakers make good wine regardless of the vintage conditions. Beautifully mature red fruit with just the right amount of mouth-watering astringency on the palate... deft tannins and acidity in balance ... a bit of smoke and cedar....
Very interesting counterpoint to the Ribera del Duero which is more modern in style and much influenced by the Cabernet Sauvignon component.
Tasty comparison of '01 and '00 vintages. Paired with grilled lamb chops. Slow-o for 4 hours and then full decant. Both wines really hit their stride after about 3 hours in the decanter (7 hours after initial uncork).
First experience with the Cogno Vigna Elena cuvee from the Ravera vineyard. Produced from Nebbiolo Rose sub-varietal in a very traditional style. Really enjoyed the classicism of this wine. Quite balanced even at 14.5% abv. Mouthwatering dusty tannins and acidity that could benefit from a bit more time, but oh-so-delicious now with the Ravera fruit pedigree. This kept my attention all evening till it was gone.
Have had the Massolino Margheria before and the key to this wine is letting it settle for at least 5 or 6 hours after opening. Much softer and more approachable with plum aspects accompanied by killer florals and tar notes on the nose. Quite alluring but not as much of a classic as the Vigna Elena.
Fascinating examples of California and Oregon Pinot Noir paired with coconut encrusted shrimp appetizer, Poulet Dijon & artichoke salad main course, with traditional New York cheesecake for dessert.
Marguerite Ryan Cellars is an under-the-radar producer that specializes very limited production Central Coast pinot noir. Peggy Ryan trained with Warren Winierski and started her own label in 1996. This is the second time I've been fortunate enough to try the 1999 Pisoni Vineyard bottling (14.6% abv, only 119 cases) over the past couple of years. Both times, the wine has been excellent. Clearly a long-lived wine, this bottle was decanted and it really started to show its stuff after around 3 hours. Vibrant fruit balanced with good acidity and an incredibly alluring floral nose with licorice accents. Unfined and unfiltered.
I like what Mark Vlossak does with Oregon pinot noir. The '11 Justice Vineyard is superbly balanced at 13.0% abv. Crystalline ruby color, and lithe raspberry palate that opens up nicely after a few hours in the decanter. Signature forest floor with spice accents. Gravitas in expression of true pinot noir character without being overbearing. Oregon pinot noir tends to be very food friendly. This wine should develop well for several more years.
This stuff is ridiculously good. Kept opening up over 6 hours. Amazing longevity.
Raspberry, sous bois with signature anise accent . Yes, the +15% abv seems high octane, however it wears it well. Perhaps Helen Turley's consulting influence. ...
... I have a special affinity for these older Martinelli Reserve pinots....
Paired the 2011 Shea Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard and the 2012 Big Basin Pinot Noir Coastview Vineyard with sashimi grade tuna marinated and grilled over cherry-wood coals.
The Big Basin was tasty out of the gate with bright raspberry and spice with attractive floral aromatics (14% abv) . This Vineyard is in Monterey area.
The Shea Estate was a bit more reticent at first, but after several hours opened up very nicely and became the favorite, especially complementing the grilled tuna. More classic tart cherry with earthtones. Only 13% abv but quite a bit more gravitas than the Big Basin ...
A very enjoyable comparison of Oregon and California terroir. ..
From one of my favorite afforable producers, the San Rocco cuvee from Azelia rarely fails to please. 14% abv. Slow-o for 4 hours prior to dinner and then full decant at the restaurant. Only a modest amount of sediment. The nose is beautifully delicate. Everything in harmony now, any rough edges on the tannins are now polished and fully integrated with oh-so-delicious, refined fruit.....resulting in a very fine example of a mature '96 Serralunga.
IMO, there is not much upside to hanging onto the '96 a lot longer. .. it is gorgeous now. I love how the power of wines from Castiglione Falletto can transform into graceful, sometimes even ethereal, expressions of Nebbiolo. Paired with duck prepared 3 ways, it took dinner to another level.
2011 has turned out to be a very enjoyable and approachable vintage for Oregon pinot noir. Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee is my favorite from this producer aside from the top end Grace Vineyard bottling, yet is their most modestly priced offering. Quite Burgundian, beautiful sour cherry and sous bois, with a very alluring, fragrant nose. Opened up perfectly over the course of several hours. (13% abv) ....
Their Evenstad Reserve is ponderous and almost syrah-like in comparison, IMO...
At an impromptu gathering of friends headed to Italy soon, these two Brunello's from modest vintages showed very well. The '98 Vigna del Fiore is a single vineyard Brunello that clocks in at a glorious 13% abv. A big wine that belies the modest abv, it has matured perfectly with incredible savory character complementing the delicious fruit. Hints of sous bois on the palate and an earthy floral nose complete the picture. Threw off a lot of very fine grained sediment indicating no filtering... all the good stuff was left intact. This was a pop and pour. Opened up beautifully over the course of several hours after decanting. In fact, this is one of the more satisfyingly classic Brunello's I've had in a while. Who needs over-ripe high octane wines? This is a beautifully balanced Sangiovese :) The '08 Col d'Orcia was very good and actually quite a bit lighter in body than the '98 Vigna del Fiore. (Definitely passed the Soldera test). Slow-o'd for 4 hours. Attractive cherry fruit with anise and hint of mint. Some preferred the lighter character of the Col d'Orcia, but I couldn't resist the mature allure of the '98 Vigna del Fiore.Can't wait to get to Tuscany. ...
At St. Cosme, Louis Barruol makes some of the best (and affordable) wines from both southern and northern Rhone.
I am particularly fond of his Cote-Rotie
http://lestastevinsdulac.blogspot.com/2014/03/chateau-de-saint-cosme-cote-rotie-2003.html?m=1
With the recent debate on the 2007 vintage in southern Rhone, I wanted to revisit the '07 Valbelle. This tasting echoed my experience last year with the wine. It is a fine wine, yet seems a bit ponderous. Mostly Grenache (80 year old vines) with a dollop of Syrah, but the weight of the wine on the palate indicates a higher percentage of Syrah (or is it just an overripe style with the Grenache...?). 14.5% abv for '07 Valbelle. Note that the '03 Cote-Rotie is a well-balanced 13.5% abv. Evidence of a trend towards riper harvests in general in the Rhone? - or - just the warmth of the '07 vintage?
Dark raspberry with attractive accents of lilac on the nose. Hints of creosote and olive on the palate. Notes from the St. Cosme website indicate whole cluster was used in later vintages. Notes for the '07 Valbelle do not specifically state that whole clusters were used, but there is a spicy character to the palate that may suggest some percentage of whole cluster was used. St. Cosme website notes a high percentage of limestone terroir for vineyards that comprise the Valbelle cuvee.
I suppose the question is, with more time in the cellar, will this evolve into the lithe, delightful Gigondas of old? I think not.
Perhaps closer in style to the Saxum wine we had last week. Certainly a good thing if that is what you are looking for, however perhaps not what one seeks in more traditional southern Rhones.
Interesting comparison of Syrah based wines from Rhone, Paso Robles and Barossa Valley.
First Flight:
2012 Robert - Denogent Pouilly Fuisse Les Carrons
2006 Brewer - Clifton Chardonnay Sea Smoke Vineyard
The R-D Les Carrons is an amazing wine. Highly recommended. Gorgeous floral nose explodes from the glass. Crisp, clean fruit accented by superb minerality. Almost Loire-ish in nature.
B-C Sea Smoke is on the far side of its drinking window. I've lost my taste for these chardonnays. High octane and oaky.
Second Flight:
2001 Guigal Hermitage
2003 The Standish
2005 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Bone Rock
Guigal was the lightest of the flight. Lovely 13% abv. Almost pinot noir-ish in color. Very deftly executed and food friendly. Tasty olive tapenade and sous bois accents. I actually prefer the 2003 vintage in general from the northern Rhone.
The Saxum is very well balanced for 16% abv. Mostly Syrah with a dollop of Grenache. I am always impressed by the quality of the fruit in Saxum wines. The James Berry Vineyard is the crown jewel. Slightly edging out the others as my favorite of the evening.
First time I've enjoyed The Standish in a while. Big wines that need time in the bottle. This 2003 tipped in at around 15% to 16% abv. Definitely the heavyweight of the flight. Delicious raspberry component.
Fascinating comparison of different Producers (albeit different vintages) from the Ginestra vineyard. Both wines served at a pre-show dinner for Stephen Stills' show. A true legend.
'05 Clerico was slow-o'd for 9 hours prior to dinner and then decanted at the restaurant. '99 Conterno Fantino was slow-o'd for 4 hours prior to dinner and served from bottle.
The '99 Conterno Fantino was a showcase for a nicely matured Barolo. Black cherry with dusty tannins and tar. Nose took a while to open up. Paired in stelllar fashion with Ossobuco. One of the more enjoyable Barolo's I've had from the classic 1999 vintage.
The '05 Clerico is still young. Exhibits very tasty fruit at this stage with balsamic accents and anise. The tannins come in heavy after the initial taste of fruit. Could be in prime drinking window in another 5 years. As the dinner progressed, the Clerico seemed to shut down down slightly, possibly due to the decanting and increased exposure to air.
We were drawn to the Clerico again & again early on with the voluptuous fruit and classic components (that will eventually come together).
The classicism of the Conterno Fantino took over as dinner progressed and it paired so well with the cuisine.
Interesting take on two vintages and two producers. I am becoming more of a fan of some of the younger vintages that are approachable earlier. The '09 Canonica Paiagallo was showing brilliantly. Ten hours of slow-o prior to dinner. The most striking impression is the quality of the fruit in balance with supple tannins. An absolutely delicious Barolo. The '00 Damilano Riserva is a good wine on its own, however the fruit seemed a bit faded compared to the Canonica. The Damilano greets you like an old friend. A very satisfying blend. The tar component is much more present than in the Canonica. Both wines paired well with the dishes:- Sauteed gnocchi with prosciutto, green apple and blue cheese cream- Ribeye steak with blackened green beans and sauteed mushrooms
