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Sunday, December 2, 2018

2005 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana, 2004 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric, 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva

2005 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana 
First time I've had a Pajana that I can remember. It is a south-facing vineyard in the Ginestra cru. 

Opened and aerated in bottle for several hours, then decanted. Fascinating to follow its evolution over the course of around 7 hours. 

The first few hours, it echoed my past experiences with younger Clerico wines: iron fist in a velvet glove.  Beautiful upfront fruit framed with an elegant tannic structure. With air, the firm tannins softened somewhat, and instead of shutting down, the wine began to open up. 

Delicious black fruit with tar, iron and tobacco accents. Toward the end of the evening, an inner sweetness began to reveal itself, providing a glimpse of a very bright future. Would love to taste this again in 5 years and then again in 10 years. 

This ended up being the favorite wine of the evening. The elegant structure rivets your attention and complements food so well. 

Here are two wonderful articles on Domenico Clerico and his wines:
https://www.vinous.com/articles/a-conversation-with-domenico-clerico-may-2007
https://www.vinous.com/articles/remembering-domenico-clerico-jul-2017

2004 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric
The classic nature of the 2004 vintage is on full display here. This is a blend from Cannubi,  Rocche di Castiglione and Bric del Fiasc vineyards. It's in the zone now and very enjoyable. Plush texture, alluring nose and tasty fruit with tar, tobacco and sous bois. Very satisfying on its own merits, but lacking the structure to make things truly interesting. 

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva
Very forward and surprisingly soft structure. Irresistible black fruit, sous bois, truffle and mellow spice. This is delightfully savory, but somewhat lacking in traditional framework and typicity. Drink within the next 5 years.

Paired these wines with ...
Spicy sausage and swiss chard pizza
Pancetta, mushroom and egg pizza 

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