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Sunday, February 11, 2018

2010 Marcel Deiss Grasberg (Alsace)


13% abv. Field blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, grown in soils influenced by Jurassic limestone substrate.. Early stages of drinkability, this a big wine. Decanted to aerate for two hours prior to dinner. Deep golden color.

Beautiful honeyed nose. Oily tropical palate of pineapple, spice and herb melange, with a prominent streak of chalky saline minerality. Slightly bitter fruit pit that makes for an interestingly complex finish. Almost a medium-dry Auslese style.

Gains serious presence during dinner. We keep it slightly chilled at the table as it seems to show better delineation of the fruit. The viscous mouthfilling flavor is fascinating with balanced acidity completing the framework. The slight bitter fruit pit recedes into the background as the evening progresses, and a lychee rosewater freshness slips into the finish. This lychee rosewater trait will manifest itself over time, as evidenced in a 1989 Grasberg we enjoyed last year which was ethereally refreshing.

A revelatory experience with the potential of Alsace. A "wow" wine for me. I cannot recommend this wine highly enough.

Paired beautifully with fresh crab cakes and sea bass.

Jean-Michel Deiss and his son, Mathieu, are making wines that provide terroir-driven depth of expression. Reminds me of what Manfred Krankl is doing at Sine Qua Non with his alchemistic white blends.

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